I’ve had a tumultuous relationship with gear over the course of my climbing life. My attitude on the matter has morphed from love, to disdain to, ultimately, a healthy respect. I started, like many, as a naïve little gumby who didn’t know a pecker from a Reverso and thought they both probably had something to do with bedtime activities. I’d spend hours poring over climbing mags, staring at every picture of each piece of gear and reading countless reviews just to determine what doohickey did what. I slowly picked up on climbing’s esoteric lingo and figured out which items I actually needed. I grew increasingly interested in shoe shapes, cam ranges, strength-to-weight ratios, and fall ratings. . . .

When I got a job at a climbing shop in college, I became a gear-obsessed super snob. I turned up my nose at those less knowledgeable, spewing tech nuggets into their inexperienced little faces. Not long after I left the shop — and the pro deals — behind, a transformation occurred: I began to hate gear. Fanciness be damned, I thought, I didn’t need some tricked-out shoe to send my latest project. I figured if I needed a skinny rope and molded heel cups to climb, I might as well quit. Tech geeks were an affront to my newfound minimalist sensibilities.

Eventually, I dropped the purist attitude, too, and learned to appreciate gear as a consumer. I was a regular dude who bought gear with hard-earned dollars, so I had to put extra care into my purchases. I didn’t know when I’d be able to afford a new harness, so I made sure to find one that would last longer than a phatty grilled cheese at a Phish show. I researched my ass off, asking friend after friend and searching shop after shop for the perfect piece of gear. It made shopping a tiring process. I wasn’t a know-it-all fanatic, like before, but I worked hard to find quality and value, which paid off in the end.

Then there’s me now. A considerable amount of experimentation has given me a good idea of what I want and how I want it. I have a sizable rack full of gear I like a lot, gear I like a little, and gear I’m more than willing to leave behind. It’s by no means the perfect collection, but I’m content with it. The gear I have today represents my experiences, those telltale moments in which I was completely ill-equipped for the situation — like when I had to down-climb a route because my rope wasn’t long enough to lower off. Like the Buddha, I’ve gone from a rich prince phase (annoying sales clerk), to a poor ascetic phase (purist gear hater), finally settling on more of a Middle Way.

The pages that follow should help you as you move through your own relationship with gear. Here, you’ll find the new hotness or old classics that your favorite companies are dropping in 2010, whether you’re collecting bits and pieces to complete your first rack or have had to build a gear closet to house the tools of your trade. Check out the intros and Gumby Tips to find important info to consider while choosing new gear. Don’t miss the athlete profiles (p. 14-16) to see what the professionals are using when they’re whipping on bolts, plugging gear, or hucking dynos high above the pads. We’re also featuring a few of our favorite home-grown stores in the Top Shops profiles (p. 68-72), because we believe that your local climbing store is the key to finding the right shoes, apparel, and gear (try before you buy!).

Above all else though, remember to take that shiny new gear outside and put it to the test on the rock. That is, after all, what keeps this great big climbing world spinning ‘round. —Andrew Tower

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ADDRESS
ADDRESS 2
CITY
STATE & ZIP
EMAIL (req)