Thoughts on the Brooklyn Boulders

...from a Boulder, Colorado, routesetter/pro climber

I've never quite lived in a big city, but I've spent enough time hanging in a number of the world's greatest of concrete jungles to know that metropolitan areas do not lend themselves to rock climbing. With the increasing number of high-quality indoor climbing facilities around the U.S., I was surprised to find that during my visit to New York City last spring, there was little to no option for training. Thankfully, upon my return just last weekend I was informed of a brand spanking new climbing gym in Brooklyn, appropriately titled Brooklyn Boulders (brooklynboulders.com). I could not wait to check out this new 18,000-square-foot gym, which was rumored to have exceptional route-setting talent and varied climbing. Nothing cures a Big Apple hangover like a solid session on plastic. 

Brooklyn Boulders is located in the Park Slope area of Brooklyn, just a few blocks from the Atlantic/Pacific Metro Station. I was staying with a good friend in Crown Heights and was able to find my way on bicycle easily. When first entering the gym I could not shake the homey, skate-park feel it had, with its (tastefully) graffitied walls and ramped, concrete floors. The building is something of an old warehouse, with separated rooms containing varied climbing, along with a larger open area featuring 30-foot lead-climbing and toprope terrain. I liked the compartmentalized feel, both for a semi-private bouldering experience and also to keep the birthday and kids events neatly separated from the main areas. A new pillar-type wall towards the back of the building is also under construction and will make for a sizable addition in climbing space. 

As a longtime routesetter at the Boulder Rock Club, I’m a bit of a setting snob. However, I was continually impressed with the setting at Brooklyn Boulders. I stuck mainly to their 30- and 45-degree bouldering features, finding both the difficult and moderate problems to be interesting and inspiring. They have done a really nice job of accommodating routes for all abilities, with a particular focus on moderate grades (rightfully, considering the clientele). I did notice that the rating system was not consistent, however: some problems receiving a V-grade and others getting a star grade (out of five). It would be nice to see a uniform system here. I also noticed some failing wall texture in spots, which could simply be part of the break in period for the brand new walls, as I have experienced before. 

It is obvious that NYC is as excited about the new arrival as I was. The gym was never over-crowded, but the number of climbers was always healthy and groups steadily occupied the birthday slab. Word on the street is that evenings and late nights (the gym is open ‘til midnight most days) are very social (read: crowded). Day passes for bouldering were a fair price at $16 ($20 for rope climbing). Monthly membership rates are very competitive for the city. 

If I ever lived in a big city, the arrival of a spot like Brooklyn Boulders would be a God-send. I was only visiting New York for four days, and still I found myself returning to this new gym. My only other comments on improving the space would be a revision of music choice (David Bowie's greatest hits on repeat is not cutting it) and the addition of a weight-training area and campus board … plus, a water fountain would be nice. All in all, I was very excited for this facility, and I left with a satisfying pump and a smile on my face, fully prepared for the coming night out on the town.

Check out more photos from the Brooklyn Boulders Grand Opening here.