UrbanClimber Magazine

PLASTIC PARADISE: The Circuit Bouldering Gym - Portland, Oregon


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How many gyms have a hanging boulder?

Words by Spencer Williams / Photos by Josh Muenster

Where: The Circuit Bouldering Gym
6050 SW Macadam Ave,
Portland, Oregon, 97239

Contact: 503.246.5111 / www.thecircuitgym.com

"When I first walked in, I felt like I was entering Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory. The boulders look like giant Everlasting Gobstoppers!" climber Dennis Wright exclaims. It may not be a magical chocolate factory, but The Circuit is definitely a wonderland. Built by a handful of local, dedicated boulderers, this new bouldering destination in Portland, Oregon offers 10,000+ square feet of wall space, over 300 boulder problems, and one big, positive attitude. The Circuit recently opened its doors late September to answer the high demand for quality indoor bouldering in Portland. "The Portland bouldering community has needed a climbing gym like this for years. It's been a long wait, but The Circuit has been worth it," says member John Tran. Marcy Tomi is ecstatic about the bouldering paradise, "This place is amazing. Great vibe, super spacious, and tons of unique routes. It's a world of endless challenges with a soft, super spongy floor." The layout is very open and roomy, with boulders ranging in size from 11 to 16 feet.

Matt Slayton, the operations manager, is keen on making sure the gym's 300+ problems change on a regular basis to keep this boulder field fresh and fun and he can back it up. "I'll be here until three in the morning everyday if I have to, to make sure the problems are being rotated out," he says. But don't worry, he shouldn't have to stay that late with the highly motivated and friendly staff he's assembled to keep the joint running smoothly.

Yes, 300+ problems. When you walk in the front door, the "it" hits you. Not the 10,000+ square-foot space, but how cozy and friendly it feels. When walking upon this urban crag, the first thing you encounter is the Kiddie boulder. The Kid's topout boulder features three faces with terrain varying from slabs to overhang. The most noticeable feature on the Kid's boulder is the slide. To heck with down climbing or a walk-off, whiz down the backside of a boulder on your rear!

The next feature encountered is the Orange boulder. The Orange boulder's front roof section juts out like a heinous overbite, with a low, steep roof turning onto an eight-foot headwall. This boulder holds some very interesting problems and should be a part of everyone's circuit. One of its faces starts a little slabby, and its last five feet are knocked back at a 30 degree angle - which really enhances that "whoa" feeling a boulderer should experience at least once during every session.


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The chocolate factory for climbers


The big Red wall sits across from the Orange boulder. Angled at 35 degrees, the problems on this wall are long, proud and tall. The Red wall has expansive overhangs, but can be conquered by climbers of any ability level so long as courage is with them. When you sit down to start a problem here, you know that in the next 15 feet there will be no relief from the terrain to save you from the pump that's coming.

Next we have the sleek, Black topout boulder. It sits silently, like a dark submarine in deep water, and it lures climbers up its overhanging, bulging sides. This semi truck sized boulder, between 10 and 13 feet tall, is an awesome part of the boulder field and will either help you hone that elusive manteling skill, or give you scabs on your stomach from bellying up like a beached whale.

Hold on tight, surf's up! The mighty Wave wall is waiting. Over 40 feet across and 15 feet tall, it transitions from a slight overhang to a steep, rounded belly. Like the imposing grey sides of a warship, this wall looks ready to battle it out. Many battle cries come from the endurance required to finish the superb, long traverses hosted by this wall.

 

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The slide of the Kid's boulder - an easy descent


Connected by a fun slab to the wave wall, the Green wall offers a huge cave with fun roof climbing on much more angular features than other parts of the boulder field, and has very exciting finishes. Walls trail out of the cave on both sides, and cumulate 40 feet away in a huge, steep, and beautiful prow, one of the most prominent features in the gym.

"There's a friggin' boulder hanging from the ceiling. What else is there to say?" John Soulakis points out. Saving the best for last... the boulder that defies gravity and reason. The Hanging boulder-15 feet tall, 18 feet across, and two tons of fun. Aretes, scoops and bulges make this boulder the most rock-like feature in the gym, but then again, it is blue and it does hang from the ceiling! Dangling four feet off the padding, it is absolutely stunning, and the gem of The Circuit's boulder field. With aesthetic walls like this around, The Circuit definitely offers a relaxed yet creative atmosphere for every climber to enjoy. Even those who don't consider themselves boulderers are taking to the wonderland, like Gavin Lee, "I hate bouldering, yet somehow here, I'm giddy like a school girl."

The staff at The Circuit understands that it takes time and hard work to be able to send your projects. Whether a beginner or experienced climber, their assortment of training tools is sure to help you achieve your goals. First, you'll start with some pull-ups. Then you'll move onto the free weights and the cable machine and before you know it, you're doing laps on the Bachar Ladder and the climbing rope along with a routine on the still rings. When you're ready to train just talk to Matt and he'll happily get you started.

After you've worked your circuit and finished your push-ups and crunches, you can hang in the chill-out area on the comfy couches and chairs. There's plenty to do, if not bouldering. Maybe watch climbing videos on the 16-foot projection screen or perhaps play some chess. You can even study a guidebook or old magazine from the gym's vast collection. The Circuit comes fully equipped with Women's and Men's locker rooms. Many take advantage of the free wireless Internet by bringing in their laptop and planning out their next trip. A 3,000-watt sound system and weekly DJ nights are sure to keep a motivating beat pumping you up as you work your circuit throughout the boulder field. Expect some fun filled competitions soon with a setup like that!


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"Exposure" in gym bouldering


While you're there, be sure to walk around and check out the photos of the father of American bouldering, Mr. John Gill. The owners wrote Gill to tell him about The Circuit and the motivating factors behind a bouldering only gym and how they wanted to pay homage to the tradition of bouldering in the US. Gill was excited enough by their enthusiasm that he sent some original photos from his personal collection that have been enlarged and are on display in the gym.

Located very close to downtown, the Circuit sits in the middle of the rapidly growing and hip John's Landing area. You only need to cross the parking lot to get coffee and sub sandwiches, or you can cross the street for tasty Mexican, Hawaiian or Thai grub. And beer is a couple blocks away at the Fulton Pub or Buffalo Gap.

You can tell The Circuit Bouldering Gym truly cares about the sport. But like most bouldering areas, you really just have to visit it yourself to get a true feel for its special and unique environment. Marcus Donaldson sums it up nicely, "The Circuit has tons of different terrain to get lost on - stuff at all levels. Big, bright room, great sound system and staff who are psyched about climbing... it has an awesome vibe... I'll be back for sure."

Spencer Williams manages the Nike Climbing Gym in Beaverton, Oregon. He has been known to drive to Squamish for one day of climbing, but is really excited about only living two blocks from The Circuit.

Josh Muenster is a budding photographer and would really like to be just a climbing bum, but doesn't have time because work is so busy. Check out some of his other photos at www.pbase.com/jmuenster/root.

 
 

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