UrbanClimber Magazine

PLASTIC PARADISE: THE BROOKLYN BOULDERS - BROOKLYN, NY


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Dana Johns heel hookin’ the 45º. Photo by Stephen Spaeth / brooklynboulders.com

THE INSIDER

And you are . . . ?
Stephen Spaeth, owner of Brooklyn Boulders

Where’s your gym?
575 Degraw Street, Brooklyn, NY 11217

Years in operation?
Zero (we just opened, but this gym was seven years in the making)

Nearest crag?
Central Park [10 miles] and the Gunks [106 miles]

What’s in the gym?
We have bouldering, toproping, and lead walls — over 10,000 square feet of climbable surface, with walls up to 30-plus feet. There is no non-climbing-specific training equipment, but we do have one of the most extensive climbing training areas ever seen, featuring a 260-square-foot campus wall, inversion slings, slack lines, and various finger and system boards. We also have a café and a gear shop.

Standout Feature?
That would be either the 28-foot scale replica tower of the Brooklyn Bridge or the 16-foot stalactite hanging from the 24-foot lead roof.

Any comps?
With 18,000 square feet of space, we will undoubtedly become a major player in the various competition circuits.

Do you have a youth team?
Soon, we will have not only a youth team, but an academy of youth climbers from all age groups. We are also pursuing a mentorship program, which will guide its members from the basics to the Gunks.

Anything else we should know?
We have around 5,000 square feet of southwest-facing windows, and bay doors on opposite sides of our block, so you can enjoy natural lighting and breezes all day.

Hours: Sun-Thurs: 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday 10 a.m. to 2 a.m. Saturday 10 a.m. to midnight

Contact Info:
(347) 834-9066
info@brooklynboulders.com
brooklynboulders.com


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Gail Rothschild, crimping on the 35º. Photo by Stephen Spaeth / brooklynboulders.com

THE LOCAL

Name: Vadim Vinokur [A little background: Vadim’s a world-level climber and old friend of the mag. He’ll still session with you in the gym, though. —Ed]

Age: 33

Years climbing: 29 or so . . .

What’s your favorite thing about the gym?
The expansive bouldering area, and the location (a fi ve-minute bike ride from my house).

Who’s your favorite setter there?
Ivan Greene puts some up fun and challenging problems and routes.

What’s your favorite wall?
I love the 45-degree wall — it’s tall and wide. What else does one need for a good training sesh?!

Beta for newcomers: Fifth Avenue, in Park Slope, is chock full of great food places. My favorite coffee shop is five minutes away — it’s called Gorilla Coffee, which suits any serious climbinggym dweller.

 
 
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