PLASTIC PARADISE: Prime Climb - Wallingford, Connecticut

From Urban Climber Magazine #24

Where:
340 Silversmith Park #28
Wallingford, Connecticut 06492

Directions:
From I-91 North or south: Exit 13 - turn right off exit ramp and continue straight until you reach a dairy queen. Turn left on to Ward Street, then continue through three stoplights and take a left into 340 Silversmith Park. Buildings 15 & 28 are located in the back of the industrial park complex. Go to www.primeclimb.comfor more detailed directions.

What’s in it?
Connecticut’s first and finest climbing gym. Its climate controlled facility offers over 14,000 square feet of climbing wall surface; 42 top ropes; a rappel tower that reaches 40 feet high; lead wall; 14 foot high, 65 foot long  bouldering wall, which includes a 45 degree section and a cave; and a training wall with campus rungs, hang boards, and system training features. The gym also offers 10,000 square feet of high ropes course elements, which are used for team building and leadership programs. A full service retail shop stocks all the necessary climbing gear one would need to climb safely. Yoga classes are also held Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturday’s at 10 dollars per session.

Stand out feature:
Has to be the 14 foot high X 65 feet long bouldering wall. It offers tons of problems on various overhanging and unique features. And, as an added bonus, an incredible mural of Hueco style boulders is sure to get you pumped and psyched.

Age Requirements:
6 to climb 13 to belay

Hours:
Mon-Fri:   4 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Saturday:   1 p.m. to 8 p.m.
Sunday:     12 p.m. to 6 p.m.

Contact:
Phone: (203) 265-7880
www.primeclimb.com
SPM@Primeclimb.com

The Local

Name: Daniel Yagmin

Age: 30

What’s so good about the gym?
Prime Climb is Connecticut’s premier rock climbing gym. The owner, Stephen Messina, is an active climber and is interested in the progression of the sport. The staff at Prime have pioneered first ascents from Connecticut to Pakistan. That’s what has always made Prime Climb a special place – and because of these people, the gym has fostered some of the finest route setting in New England.

Give us the beta on a problem at Prime Climb.
In my opinion the best problem in the gym is the “white V9” on the 45-degree wall. On this particular problem, you start sitting with both hands in decent, but slopey, underclings. Pull your bottom off the ground and make a desperate slap with your right hand to the Pusher Beast (an oldie but a goodie as far as holds are concerned).

At this point, karate kick your right foot out to a decent foot hold (unless you are 7 feet tall or have an ape index that would make plastic man jealous you should find yourself quite extended at this moment). In order to gain some stability make a quick catch with your left hand into another slopey undercling further towards the Beast. Now, channel your core strength and fire up and left, with your left hand, to a super slopey pinch. Stick that move and your feet should go flying. Then, regain your composure, and put your right heel in by your right hand on the Beast hold. Rock over the heel and bump out right to yet another slopey pinch.  Stick the pinch and float out to a decent Revolution, Font style pinch out right. In order to hold the pinches, many people find themselves squeezing the Beast with their feet in the classic “Bicycle” position.  Shuffle your left hand into the middle pinch and, with gumption, launch a dynamic cross over with your left hand to the problems finishing slopey jug — hold the swing and your done.