Michigan! Around here, the only climbing is Grand Ledge, a small chunk of sandstone that has been chipped in order to squeeze every inch into a climbing route. This 40-foot long cliff maxes out at 35 feet tall and the area is top-rope only. And there are access issues. Another factor that makes Michigan a less than desirable climbing destination is the winter cold. Not cold like New England where they use brooms and blow torches to boulder year round, but the type of wet clinging cold which is inescapable to the point of misery. The most common solution is to make the six-hour drive south to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky braving semis in the winter snowstorms and constant snow drifts that sweep the roads.

The Solution

Luckily, Ann Arbor (a.k.a A2) in Southeastern Michigan is home to one of the largest climbing gyms in the United States, Planet Rock - Ann Arbor. Here, both serious and first time climbers find an indoor climbing Mecca. The gym has a unique layout - three separate bouldering areas with a two floor cave system with a connecting ramp. Just across a rope bridge from the upper cave is the bouldering mezzanine. This area offers steep terrain and a place for parents to sit and watch the young urban climbers or surf the web on the wireless Internet. Although the bouldering is great, Planet Rock is a route climber's gym. The routes section is a double "U" shape with a freestanding tower smack dab in the middle, offering a variety of terrain. Planet Rock has large varied of roped routes, some up to 55 feet. Almost half of the roped area is lead bolted and features a variety of terrain, including the amphitheater that boasts a 40-foot lead roof with stalactite. Of course, there are the standard training tools: two mechanical rotating tread walls, campus board, two system boards (with and without weight assistance), adjustable crack climbing machine, army rope and an assortment of hang-boards.

The Atmosphere

Good terrain is essential; more important is the people. First off, you'll never meet a crazier guy than Nick Cocciolone, the gym owner. One night while route setting, Nick and his brother Vince were playing around on a pogo stick. 360s and one foot bouncing weren't enough as each brother tried to outdo the other. Nick took a 10-foot running start and bounced towards the bridge. He made one good bounce before flying into the mesh side guard. His head and arms poked through like a prisoner in the stockade. Several hundred attempts by most of the staff later, still no one has reached the other side.

If Nick is the vision, then general manager Chris Hayes is the man with the plan. Chris got his start in banking before choosing a more fun-loving lifestyle at Planet Rock. The "chair problem" at a recent comp is example of his outside the box. Chris was driving around the city and came across some sidewalk trash. A normal person would have passed without further thoughts, but not Chris. He loaded the "well loved" college furniture into the bed of his green pick-up truck and. That night while setting for a bouldering comp, Chris brought in the white rocker with a plaid cushion. It looked like it belonged to some Florida grandma because it had seashells glued to the frame. While white sounds like a clean color, this chair was anything but. There were dirty smudges and globs of glue where shells had fallen off. The seashell throne found a home at the top of a boulder problem, where sitting was required for full points. The chair problem was the most popular of the competition, climbed several times by those who could mantel over the side. Knowing the chair's history I declined the privilege of sitting in it.

Chris and his staff, all climbers who have flocked to this oasis of climbing in the barren Midwest, provide the perfect environment for a climbing gym - comfortable and inclusive. Every year for the past 10 years, Planet Rock hosts a Wall Party. This party has all the normal events: climbing, movies, a live DJ, hot tubs, food and drinks. This is a way Nick says thanks to his staff and regulars.

Special Programs

Planet Rock was custom built from the ground up. In his quest to go bigger and better, Nick modified the floor to descend 10 feet, sloping in to the back wall. The gym floor slopes down to accommodate this deep section, like a swimming pool slopes down to the deep end of the pool, leaving perfect stadium style seating. This allowed for 55 feet of hardcore plastic pulling from the 45 previously drawn up. It is also perfect for spectators during competitions and up close viewing of countless film and slide shows.

Planet Rock is large enough that it can hold special events without disrupting general business. For instance it has held numerous clinics and even training & techniques camps taught by great climbers such as Timy Fairfield and Rob Mulligan. Planet Rock is always looking for new initiatives, like cutting edge training camps.

Quality Climbing

As mentioned earlier, Planet Rock was specifically designed for climbing, including the footprint of the building. This is not the typical gym that is retrofitted to fit available resources. This is an epic gym that is designed for climbers, from the hobby climber to the serious contenders. Planet Rock's high and broad walls allow long traverse lead routes with large roof sections, perfect for training endurance - a weakness many indoor climbers experience from climbing short routes. In addition to height, Planet Rock has amazing routes, several set on each rope. Thanks to their full time wall manager this gym has no "classics." It's a drag to climb memorized routes over and over again. A high turnover of routes keeps the members happy.

NAME
ADDRESS 1
ADDRESS 2
CITY
STATE & ZIP
EMAIL (req)

NAME
ADDRESS
ADDRESS 2
CITY
STATE & ZIP
EMAIL (req)