The Legend of Litz and the Lilly Boulders

You've taken some time off. What have you been up to?
I’ve been training and working. I am getting ready to go traveling and climbing around for a few months.

When did you first meet Rob Turan?
I met Rob at the Obed Park office around 1996. He was fired up about exploring and developing rocks. He was interested in what the younger generation could do. That was when I found my interest in rock hunting. Rob has moved from one park office to another since I have known him. First the Obed, then the New River, and now Chattanooga. Everywhere he goes he is in constant pursuit of new rocks.

You have lived and climbed in the Southeast, a region rich with history and character, with some of the best rock on earth. Any particularly favorite spots? Also, describe the vibe.
That’s tough in the south. Most B or C crags in the Southeast would be A+ crags everywhere else. The New River has some of the best clean lines I have ever seen. The Obed and Little Rock City have loads of unique steep climbing. Around Chattanooga there are tons of cliffs. It is really only limited by the motivation to go exploring. The south is different than most places I have been. It is a very open climbing scene. When I was there it was very easy to find climbing partners. It was the kind of thing where you could just show up and there were almost always folks climb with.

You've ticked some of the world's hardest, including many unrepeated problems. What's the point?
It’s pretty simple. I like steep climbing. I grew up with it and I will always love it. It turns out that most hard climbs are steep, so I guess that is a bonus for me.

Do you train?
I climb on plastic at the Front [in Salt Lake City] and I also cross train for strength at the Gym Jones facility.

What's next for you?
I have a road trip to the Red River Gorge and all through the South. I’m looking forward to seeing all the new stuff that’s been developed since I’ve been gone.

Any trad lines on your mind?
Nothing specific. I would like to do some stuff at T-Wall [in the Obed] this fall though.

Favorite spot to climb in the world?
I don’t have one favorite. Currently I like Hueco. South Africa looks like the place to be for quality and quantity.

When did you find out your tendons had been replaced with steel cable?
I woke up next to a chalk bag, a pair of shoes, and a boulder with no memory of my past life... Seriously, I thought I was a V10 climber for 6 years because that was the hardest established problem that I had climbed. Then I went to other areas realized that my V9s and 10s were more than a few grades off. We all got a good laugh out of it.

Where can I get a good plate of pulled pork near Chatty?
I have no clue. I just eat pot roast and steak.

— Interview by Andrew Kornylak

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