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![]() Brett shooting Beth Rodden on the Optimist, for Dosage Volume 3
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"Art is an attempt to capture life. To crystallize and make permanent that which is forever fleeting and changing."
—Eyvind Earle
My middle finger was blown out at the knuckle, but the possibility of sitting home while a wintry bouldering session went down at the Gunks was just not an option. Josh Lowell's video, Big Up, danced in my brain as I resurrected an old JVC mini digital video (DV) camcorder, packed videotapes instead of climbing shoes, and surrendered to what would become the single most inspiring day of my life.
Five guys. Four crash pads. One camera. It was cold enough to brush the falling snow off the boulders without leaving so much as a hint of water. Beneath the blankets of white was pure friction. "Can you smell it?" I asked taking a deep breath of frosty air. "Smells like sending." And on that single January day every project that each of my bros eagerly hoped to send went down. One by one. My injury wasn't disadvantageous. I was there to film every second of it. IndeVisual productions and White Lines, my first video short, was born from the emotions, the drive, and the belief of a crew that let nothing stand in the way of its passion and commitment to climb. Although I had witnessed that ambition and drive countless times, this time I was able to capture it on film. From then on, the camera came everywhere.
Artistic expression is a powerful tool. As a handful of great climbing filmmakers have demonstrated over the past decade, art in the form of video or film can steer the mind to search the soul, spark the desire to take a journey, and offer the reality of possibility. Josh Lowell has given us the voyage. From the shadowed virgin boulders of the Shawangunks, New York in Big UP to the sacred landscapes of Hampi, India in Pilgrimage, Josh commands our attention and continues to challenge and motivate our senses. He is, perhaps, the most praised and widely respected artist in climbing history who has come to explore and deliver standard-setting films. Mike Call's Frequent Flyers exposed us to the world that waits out there for us and his The Professionals brought us the relentless pursuits of legends Francois Legrand and Yuji Hirayama. His work reads like a novel that encompasses who we are and reminds us how special our unwavering souls can be. Peter Mortimer's Front Range Freaks evolved into an eccentric story of fragility and passion that carried us from a tribute to the late Derek Hersey to a celebration of new frontiers with Tim O'Neill, an entertaining and emotional ride of chance, circumstance, and human spirit. The young Cooper Roberts is starting down the highway of success. Sessions, a video imbued with the intensity and desire found on the boulder fields of North America, has got fellow filmmakers and the community alike waiting and wishing for future releases.
Sometimes our ability to chase dreams relies first on the accomplishments of those who have pioneered the way, their vision catalyzing a movement that some of us ultimately join. I once read that "there is nothing more empowering than an idea whose time has come." Nowhere is this more powerfully demonstrated than in the collective films of the individuals featured here which have captured the dynamic and thrilling evolution of our sport over the past decade. This group of filmmakers, referred to here as the "Capture Collective," is my inspiration. They kindly shared their thoughts on climbing filmmaking with me and the following are excerpts from our conversations.
![]() Mike Call filming in Hueco.
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The Capture Collective on...
[record] Motivation
Josh: In early '97 I blew out a finger tendon during a competition. Everything in my life was centered around climbing at that time, and it was suddenly taken away. I had been bouldering in the Gunks three or four days a week, opening new problems with Ivan Greene and Obe Carrion. When I realized I wouldn't be able to climb for quite a while I decided to keep going out with those guys, but to film the action rather than participate in it. I really had nothing else to do. After a couple months of filming I put the footage together to create Big UP, my first video. I didn't quite know what I was doing, but I was passionate about bouldering. I found I had a natural eye for shooting and also wanted to make an attempt at storytelling. There was something about the video that was unique and got people excited. I thought "Hmm, I wonder what I could do if I got some real equipment and made a real effort at it..." Since then things have come a long, long way. Videos have evolved. Today, if you put out a video like Big UP, it would not be noticed...
[slow] The Process
Mike: Well, there's the planning, the fundraising, the shooting, the post production, then the marketing and selling. I guess it just depends on how big the project is. Some nights I edit five minutes of video, others I may only get through a 30-second section that's driving me nuts. I should be getting faster at editing, but the more I learn, the more time I take with the little things.
Cooper: It consumes most of your time, and all of your mind.
Josh: I think this depends on your personal approach. For me, it's actually kind of embarrassing how much time I spend on a project. I get completely obsessed and lost inside each one. The most efficient way to shoot a climbing video would be to call up a famous climber, schedule a shoot on a route he or she has already done, fly in, shoot a pose-down session and a mini-interview in a day, and go home. This is the approach used by some of the early climbing videos I saw. The result is fairly soulless. You see somebody doing some moves on a cool-looking route, but the route is not really being climbed, there's no storyline, no connection with the people, no deep sense of place, and no potential for drama. Brett and I spend lots of time with the people and the places that we're shooting, trying to capture the really incredible moments that make a film memorable. We want to give the authentic insider's perspective. We want the viewer to feel what it's like to spend a whole winter at Hueco Tanks; to feel Chris Sharma's frustration as he falls for the 29th time on the same move of Realization - and then to get the voyeuristic thrill of witnessing the actual first ascent. Brett was in Ceuse, France for six weeks filming every single attempt Chris made on Realization - six weeks of shooting for an 11-minute piece.
[rewind] Inspiration
Cooper: The Real Thing, Hard Grit, and Rampage are my all time favorites. Good characters, cinematography, and sports action!
Mike: I loved Stone Monkey. It was really experimental and Jonny Dawes is such a great athlete to center a movie around. I have a lot of respect for the Masters of Stone series. One Summer and The Real Thing came out right when I did my first videos. The Real Thing has to be one of the greatest of all time. Josh's stuff is always strong work. He's always looking for ways to improve upon the norm, to push it in terms of quality. Plus he's a real climber's filmmaker, so his emotion about the subject translates through the screen.
Peter: There's something inspirational in every climbing film I've seen -- well, almost every one. Sometimes its just a little idea, like an editing or camera trick. Sometimes it's a whole style that the film has, or the way the characters or the climbs are revealed. As far as climbing vids, I really like Josh's editing style and his camera techniques. My favorite climbing vid is Touching the Void, mostly for the interview with Joe Simpson -- he's a crazy dude. Non-climbing wise, I love Stacey Peralta's movies. Riding Giants is the type of film I aspire to make one day.
[fast forward] The Future
Peter: I think climbing videos have potential to be widely popular. The climbers, the movement, the simple objective of scaling a rock, the killer locations are all appealing to many people. There are a few problems I see that non-climbers have with climbing videos: there is not the sort of flow in climbing that there is in skating, surfing, or boarding, so climbing doesn't immediately enchant people the way those sports do; climbing is subtle -- the holds, the balance, the feet, endurance -- all those things that make a problem difficult or a route beautiful are hard to get across to a non-climber; climbing is slow-paced; the best climbers often make things look easy. I think there are certain climbers, and certain types of climbing that transcend these problems. Sea Cliff climbing is something that everyone seems to get. And buildering. It's funny, watching someone do a sea cliff solo and fall looks insane, even though it might not be that crazy, whereas watching someone float a 5.14 may not seem that amazing to a non-climber.
Mike: I don't know if the general public will get what makes climbing so special for awhile. If you compare it to skateboarding as an example... it may take 10 years.
[audio in] The Videos: Their Own Words
Mike Call
Yank on This (1995)
My first video. Lots of handheld, between burns shooting. Lots of inside jokes, incomplete sends, no budget. One of my all time favorites for sentimental reasons.
Yank on This 2: Fast Twitch (1996)
Basically chronicles Chris Sharma's early days. The actual first ascent of Necessary Evil and the first American ascent of Just Do It in Smith Rocks. Dueling commentary by Boone Speed and Dale Goddard regarding the death of the "technique is everything" mentality of the 80s and early 90s.
Black Lung (1999)
One of my all-time favorites. These guys are icons (Ben Moon and Jerry Moffatt) and I was so psyched to make a short movie with them. They inspired my climbing and my focus in my movies to a large degree. Climbing for hard moves.
Frequent Flyers (2000)
This one was my first bigger scale narrative/documentary. I fully poached the idea from Endless Summer, and I love the way it turned out. We did a screening of this in Boulder, Colorado to a packed house and it was great. I couldn't watch during the screening, I just sat on the floor below the projector and listened to the audience's reactions.
The Professionals (2000)
Kind of a departure from the formula, once again. I was contacted by Francois Legrand asking me to document his and Yuji Hirayama's attempt to climb as many hard routes as possible in a little over a month, and it turned out to be a very sobering trip. This movie is not a pump you up fantasy fest, really. I showed as much of the reality as I could, and some of it wasn't pretty. I loved making this movie, even though it wasn't a big seller.
Peter Mortimer
Scary Faces (2000)
Covers the story of Zac Barr, a Boulder climber of advanced skill, but not a superstar, who wants to climb the legendary runout route Jules Verne in Eldorado Canyon. Verne requires some balls and skill (5.11r) and is historic, so Zac seeks out some of the hardmen from back in the day to learn about the climb before sending it. This was my first foray into filmmaking and it shows in the amateur editing and shooting. In a lot of ways I think it has more heart then the stuff I've done since though. It has this wide-eyed wonderment about the climbing world. Many of the people we filmed (Christian Griffith, Roger Briggs, Cameron Tague, Matt Samet, Beth Bennett, Jim Erickson) were my idols growing up. I'd listen so intently to every word they said and diligently watch them climb.
Front Range Freaks (2003)
Eccentric climbers from Colorado going for it in their preferred discipline. Includes Matt Samet (FA 5.12+ X headpoint), Heidi Werts, Topher Donahue (5.13 crack), Hank Caylor (400-foot chimney solo and BASE jump), Naomi Guy, old-school bouldering, Paul Glover (dyno-maniac), Biscuit the climbing dog, Timmy O'Neill Urban Ape, and a special tribute to the late great soloist Derek Hersey. This film was just fun to make. My only goal was to make a fun film that climbers on all levels would like. For most of the filming we had no idea what we were doing beforehand. When we did start shooting we didn't know what would work. All of the ideas for segments came from the climbers themselves.
Return2Sender (2005)
This is my most ambitious film, and includes Cicada Jenerik sending V10 at age 10; Michael Reardon soloing crazy stuff up to 5.13; a host of great climbers going nuts on the cracks in Indian Creek; more dog climbing with Biscuit and puppy Felix; more urban adventures with Timmy - this time in LA, and more. It's sort of an expansion on Front Range Freaks. Whereas FRF focused on different style climbers in Colorado, R2S features climbers from all over, pursuing bouldering, cracks, soloing, etc. Everyone in R2S is pushing their climbing to the edge, whatever their flavor.
Josh Lowell
Rampage (1999)
This was the first time Brett began shooting full-time with me. The four of us [Josh, Brett, Chris Sharma, Obe Carrion] bought a beat up old RV and cruised around the West checking out all the hot new bouldering areas we could find. At that time bouldering was really spreading quickly from its few main strongholds. We would hear a rumor of an area, call up a local and show up for a tour. They would take us straight to the sickest projects, and Chris would just crush them one after another. Rampage was the first of my films that actually had some significant sponsorship support, sold lots of copies, and made a little money. Only after Rampage did I start believing that making climbing films could theoretically develop into a viable business. In 2004 I finally re-released it on DVD, with 40 minutes of additional footage that didn't make it into the main movie. It's mostly raw footage of additional first ascents that Chris did during the trip - no music, no fancy editing - just the straight up real deal.
Dosage Volume 1 (2001)
In 2000 I started working on ways to distribute short climbing videos over the internet. I came up with a model for a series of shorts that would premiere on the web and later be compiled on DVD [Dosage Volume I]. I met a guy in New York named Ed Loughran, who was interested in funding a multimedia climbing website, and we made an agreement to create the Monthly Dose episodes on his site, which became ClimbXMedia. I introduced Ed to Marc Russo, and Marc did an incredible job single handedly establishing cXm as a major force in the climbing world. Later, Mike joined Marc and helped to keep the awesome content flowing. The first Dose we launched was a four minute piece showing Chris Sharma doing the first ascent of The Mandala. People were totally excited. At the end of the piece Chris says, "If I had to give it a rating, I'd probably call it like V16 or something."
Pilgrimage (2003)
This was a project that Chris and I came up with together and worked very closely on. The destination was Hampi, India. Chris had been there the previous year for a week, and was eager to go back with enough time to get to know the place deeply. As we talked more about the place, lots of interesting themes and ideas emerged that convinced us it would be perfect for a film. We felt like this trip would be a good opportunity to try and do something more cinematic, to go beyond the formula. As we planned the trip Katie Brown expressed an interest in joining us. After some long conversations with her we thought that her re-emergence into the climbing world could add another pretty interesting story to the film. For myself and for Chris it was exciting to try and do something beyond what had been done before. We wanted to go beyond the action and try and touch some people. I think he personally wanted to express some of his thoughts about climbing and its role in his life in new ways. We wrote the script (his voice-over) together and recorded it here in New York, along with some of his Japanese flute music for the soundtrack. We figured there would be some people who would connect deeply with the ideas and style of the film, while others might find it kind of cheesy, but we decided to put it out there and be true to our initial concept.
Dosage Volume 2 (2004)
Dosage 2 has six doses on it. Three of them had come out on ClimbX as long ago as 2001. When ClimbX shut down due to lack of funding, I continued making Doses until I had enough to release Dosage 2. The highlight of Dosage 2, or at least the piece that has gotten the most attention, is "Psicobloc", which features Klem Loskot and Tim Emmett deep water soloing in Mallorca, off the coast of Spain. When this piece came out on the web I really think it blew some heads. Nobody had seen guys doing six foot double dynos fifty feet above crashing waves without a rope before. The piece is nice and short and snappy, has dope music and showed something brand new that hadn't been exposed before. After Pilgrimage I wanted to get back to psyching up the core audience with amazing action, amazing music and amazing visuals, and no filler. I think there's room for many different styles and I find it satisfying to be able to move from one to the other.
Dosage Volume 3 (2005)
Brett and I are working hard now on Dosage Volume 3. I think it's really going to make an impact. We have some sick new equipment and systems that we've devised to bring out footage like none ever seen before. We will also have a huge variety of climbing and climbers, and for the first time we will include some doses by other producers. Brett and I have three doses shot already. One shows Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell on their trip to Smith Rock, OR in October. Tommy does the first ascent of this gorgeous 13D ar?te on the Monkey Face, and Beth is shown in detail working and sending her new route, The Optimist (14b). By the time this magazine comes out this Dose will be up on the web (www.bigUPproductions.com). In November I went to Vietnam and shot a dose there with Klem Loskot and Tim Emmett on an exploratory deepwater soloing trip in Ha Long Bay, which is basically a gigantic maze of thousands of limestone towers sticking straight up out of the water. In January we shot some incredible footage with Chris and Jason Kehl at some brand new sandstone bouldering areas in Arkansas that are on par with anything I've seen. Cooper did a Dose for me in Australia, and MC is working on one from Utah, so I'm looking forward to having the Dosage format evolve to be able to cover more areas, more climbers, and more styles by having other filmmakers involved.
Cooper Roberts
Sessions (2004)
I made Sessions during my last years in high school, so sometimes it was hard to find the time to travel and shoot. Other than that, I think I might have had the best job in my school! When I made the video, my sole vision for it was to be a product that other climbers could enjoy and use to get psyched. That's it. I hope with Sessions I've done that. Obviously not everyone will like it, but I'm pretty happy with the feedback I've gotten so far.
For info on Peter Mortimer, Cooper Roberts and Josh Lowell's releases, please visit www.bigUPproductions.com.
For info on Mike Call's releases please visit www.movementfilms.com.