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![]() Euro styling. Amelie Delfino on Worm World Cave (V9). Photos by Juan Castro.
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When you’re at the crag and someone is working a route or boulder, and giving all they have on the problem, couple of passers-by might congregate to watch. But when climbers like Chris Sharma, Lisa Rands, Lynn Hill and Dave Graham come together to climb, crowds gather in silence and awe. Welcome to the 2005 RocTrip in Squamish, British Columbia.
This year’s RocTrip, was the third of its kind in North America. Held the first time in Bishop, California in 2002 and then the Shawangunks, New York in 2003, the RocTrip is a community event that brings together some of the world’s best rock climbers and the climbing public to celebrate climbing. The previous destinations have lended themselves well to the fun, laid-back atmosphere of the event, while raising money for local climbing area conservation efforts and Squamish was no different.
Just north of Vancouver lays the little town of Squamish. From anywhere here, you can see the rising wall of the Squamish Chief, providing a stunning backdrop to the weekend’s events. Even with all that vertical rock, most of the climbing took place near the base of the main wall on boulders that ranged from the size of cars to buildings.
In an area with weather as fickle as British Columbia, the elements were kind. During the entire week the weather forecast threatened to dampen the weekend’s festivities, but all said and done, it was some of the best weather the region had in weeks. Often wet weather means lush, green forest and woods and Squamish is just that. If it’s sunny in the parking lot, leave your shades in the car - as you enter the forest, the dense canopy provides the sensation that you’re entering some place special, like on the planet Endore searching for Ewoks.
To take place in the mossy forest were the Climbing Competition on Saturday and the Bouldering Competition on Sunday. For each competition, there were two categories - Open and Elite. However, with the community vibe flowing, hundreds of people were expected to show up in an area that’s used to accommodating a fraction of that number on any given day.
Some of the locals were a bit hesitant having such a high impact weekend caused by competitors, volunteers, and spectators. However, the long-term impact from the Roc Trip far outweighed the weekend’s foot traffic and sloper slapping. Early Friday morning, trail volunteers met Anders Ourem and others from the Climber’s Access Society of BC at the Squamish Station Mall. Anders is the organization’s Executive Director and they planned the initiative for the day. Volunteers were dispatched to trail areas around the Grand Wall to help maintain the system that connects the main bouldering areas. Some shoveled, while others pushed wheelbarrows and even others built steps, all in an effort to closing social trails, fixing soft ones, and improving wet, uneven or hilly areas. About half of the 50+ volunteers were local climbers, looking after their “pet rock,” and this was only one of several events that the Access Society has planned for Squamish this year. “Part of rock climbing is community and respect for yourself and the places you like. It’s about looking after places,” said Anders. In addition to the trail cleanup and raising awareness of the local conservation issues, money raised from the event went directly to the Access Society.
![]() There’s no “I” in “Team”. The troops rally for Gerome Pouvreau. Photos by Juan Castro.
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Throughout the day, climbers started showing up in small crews, congregating around classics like Easy in a Easy Chair (V4), Superfly (V4) and Baba Hari Dass (V7). A majority of the climbers were there specifically for the weekend’s events. People came as far as Los Angeles, Calgary, Maryland and Colorado just to be there for a few days. “I came for a lot of reasons,” said one climber from Salt Lake City, Utah. “I’ve never been to Squamish before and it seemed cool to watch a bunch of really good climbers climb.”
A “bunch of really good climbers” is an understatement. In recent history, there have been few gatherings that have brought together such an elite pool of talent. World Cup competitions only bring the plastic-pullers and comp climbers. And of all the places in the world to climb, it’s unlikely to have a handful of 5.14 climbers together at a crag, nonetheless more than a dozen like at the Roc Trip. To understand how difficult it is to bring this many upper-echelon climbers together from all over the globe for a weekend, it took a half hour just to get the Petzl team from down the hall for a photo shoot!
The Petzl team is a “who’s who” list of hard and influential climbers. Lisa Rands, Katie Brown, Lynn Hill, Joe Kinder, Alli Rainey-Wendling, Daniel Woods, and Chris Sharma all made the trek from different states. Showing up as a blip on the American climbing radar was Dave Graham. Dave flew in from Switzerland for less than a week, just to attend the event. Surely he was jet lagged for the majority of his visit, as he was seen a couple of times running through the woods, head popping out from behind boulders asking, “Have you seen my backpack?” He eventually found it. Although only coming from Boulder, Colorado, Joe Kinder made his way to Squamish via plane, automobile, busses, hitchhiking, walking, and a lengthy stop at the border crossing. Representing their home turf, were Canadians Sean McColl and Sonnie Trotter (who played an integral role in setting up the Invitational Comp). Perhaps the most unknown group of rock stars were the European Petzl athletes. Superstar Liv Sansov was in attendance, as well as Jerome Meyer, and Gerome Pouvreau to name a few. Swiss Said Belhaj ,U.K.’s Steve McClure, and Ice Climbing World Champion Harry Berger from Austria rounded out the international team. Arc’teryx brought bouldering powerhouse Frederic Nicole, Canadian Scott Milton, and three-time Ice Climbing World Champion Ines Papert into the mix, as well.
The action on Saturday evolved around the Elite Climbing Competition. While the climbers had the option to climb at Cheakamus Canyon or the Grand Wall Boulders, the circus was definitely at the latter. It took a while for the climber to warm up, but once in full force, there was always enough action at the Cacomdemon boulder.
The highlight was seeing the big guns work a new project that Sharma had bolted earlier in the week – a hard slab to a thin overhanging seam. What was just as impressive as the climbing were the “spectators” (not a word often associated with outdoor sport climbing). Sure, there were climbers, but also a lot of families, undoubtedly dragged to the crag by the teen climbers to see their favorite rockstars up close and in person. Rightfully so - there’s seldom the opportunity to see that many athletes of this caliber. Perhaps the most amusing thing was the number of times belayers would scramble around the boulders, desperately asking, “Does anyone have a Gri Gri?”
![]() DJ LaFouche driving the RocParty. Photos by Juan Castro.
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Nowadays, it seems like an event isn’t a climber’s event without Timmy O’Neill (Side note-if he ever asks for a picture of you, don’t give it to him), as the main attraction of Saturday night. In the packed “Leisure Center” in Squamish, Timmy had the crowd’s attention from the start with a “dance intro” and the highlight was the “full contact, last man (woman in this case) standing handstand” contest. And of course, in full Euro fashion (would you expect less from Petzl?), the title sponsor put on a foot-stomping, booty-shaking, hip-swerving party, lead by the fearless DJ Lafouche and his rockin’ 80’s mullet. Apparently that’s what happens when you grow out of a Mohawk stage. Rumor had it that Lisa Rands was getting her pop n lock together on the dance floor. The ladies in the Invitational Bouldering Comp the next day should have taken some lessons from Lisa, because whatever she did prepped her for some serious hold crushing the next day.
Attendance for Sunday’s bouldering event was solid (once everyone found the right meeting place). Again, the main attraction was the Invitational heavy hitters, but a lot of them dutifully fulfilled their sponsor’s obligations by partying hard the night before and strolling into the boulder field moving a bit slower than usual. No matter, as the pace quickened and there was enough action for all. The biggest gathering was at the Animal Magnetism Boulder, where Graham, Kinder, Sharma, and Woods climbed move for move.
A whirlwind of a weekend, things finally slowed down and wrapped up with an awards ceremony. In reality, it didn’t really matter too much, because the weekend was so action-packed already, but if you really need to know Steve McClure and Lisa Rands won their Elite Divisions (bouldering and route scores combined), Paul Robinson and Mélissa Lacasse won their Open Bouldering Divisions and Tyler Landman and Noella Nykyforuk for the Open Route Divisions. As for the procedes going to the Access Society, Petzl and Arc’Teryx will present them a check at this Summer’s Outdoor Retailer Show in Salt Lake City, Utah. It’s unclear how many pints were consumed and cans of RedBull crushed, or the number of boulder problems sent, but it’s crystal clear that the Petzl Roc Trip is a star-studded community event that you should add to your road trip list.
Events like this don’t just spontaneously happen - and an incredible amount of work and effort is put into it from behind the scenes. A very special thanks to La Sportiva, Prana, Entreprises, How Sound Brewing Co., New England Ropes, the Municipality of Squamish, BC Parks, Land & Water BC, Valhalla Pure Outfitters, Squamish Station Mall and Starbucks to helping pull this together. And of course, to the citizens and businesses of Squamish who put up with the climbing mayhem. UC
Lynn Hill styles ATD (V8). Photo by Luke Laeser.
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Elite Division Men
(Bouldering and routes combined)
1 Steve McClure (UK)
2 Sean McColl (CAN)
3 Chris Sharma (USA)
4 Said Belhaj (SWE)
5 Harry Berger (AUS)
Elite Division Women
(Bouldering and routes combined)
1 Lisa Rands (USA)
2 Thomasina Pidgeon (CAN)
3 Lynn Hill (USA)
4 Amélie Delfino (FRA)
5 Ines Papert (GER)
Open Bouldering Men
1 Paul Robinson
2 Neil Dyer
3 Tyler Landman (tie)
3 Jamie Chong (tie)
Open Bouldering Women
1 Mélissa Lacasse
2 Alli Rainey-Wendling
3 Vikki Weldon
Open Routes Men
1 Tyler Landman
2 Matt Maddaloni
3 Derek Kyle
4 Brian Antheunisse
5 Dale Maclaren
Open Routes Women
1 Noella Nykyforuk
2 Vikki Weldon