UrbanClimber Magazine

Iron Resolution


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Chris Sharma making his iron resolution (ungraded) on January 1st, 2006. Photo: Boone Speed

Words by Damon Corso / Photos by Boone Speed and Damon Corso

In Early February of 2003, a huge rainstorm ripped through Joshua Tree and dislodged a huge block between two classic crack climbs, "Enter the Dragon" and "Fists of Fury". Tony Yaniro first lead the two stellar moderates in 1978 and now, after 25 years, another line was waiting to be sent on this "new classic" boulder. On January 1st 2006, after nearly three years of failed attempts, a climber stepped up to lead the charge, Chris Sharma. J-Tree now has its hardest problem established, Iron Resolution.

"Iron Resolution"
Iron-because it's coated in the iron rock that rested beneath the grainy Quartz Monzonite.
Resolution-because it was done on new years day

On January 6th, just a few short days after Sharma's FA, Ethan Pringle claimed the 2nd ascent.


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Ethan Pringle. Iron Solid. On the 2nd ascent. Photo: Damon Corso

UC: What drew you to the climb?
EP
: Well, I had been climbing in j-tree on and off for about a week and was having a blast. On the night of Jan. 1st I saw Chris at Crossroads, where I was eating for the second night in a row. He told me he had just gotten the first ascent of the steep face of the broken block next to Streetcar. I remembered looking and fantasizing about it the year before with my friends on my first trip to J-tree. I remembered how bad the landing was. Chris said it was flat now. He rapped off the top to make sure the holds were solid anyway, which they were. He was pretty psyched, saying "It's a five star line, its hard, tall, and really unique, dude..." That was all I needed to hear. After a rest day I was dead set.

 

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Ethan Pringle. Photo: Damon Corso

UC: Why was this important to you?
EP
: It really is a five star line. It's a beautiful piece of rock and really fit my style; jump start, huge moves between poor holds, body position and tension oriented and it's high off the ground. You wouldn't want moves like that any higher. Also, something about the boulder just makes it different from every other boulder. Not just in j-tree, but anywhere. The only other place I've seen features like that (perfectly flat, clean-cut angles) is Red Rocks. It's completely natural because the boulder fell out of the cliff on its own, but its almost super natural because the only apparent holds on the wall you have to use.

UC: How did the climb unlock itself for you?
EP
: My first day on it I wasn't sticking the second hold. If the hold six inches higher wasn't useable, and if I couldn't keep my feet on the start hold to get the good hold at about fifteen feet, then it probably wouldn't be possible for me. I came back the next day to try it and it was the sun. I ended up sticking the move I couldn't do the day before. Got to the second to last move. After completely trashing myself on it, I knew I would have to take a rest day and come back in the morning when the rock was still cool to improve my chances.

UC: What was the experience like when you sent?
EP
: I forfeited climbing with Fred Nicole the day before to rest for it. I hadn't gotten really good sleep in like three days of camping. When we woke up that morning at 6:30 AM there was frost on everything. It was not looking good. During my warm up I almost fell off the Chube. I didn't really feel like I was about to send the hardest boulder problem I have ever done (if that's what it is). I did it first try. I wasn't executing the moves perfectly, but I felt determined. I didn't have a concrete plan on what I was going to do when I got to the top. Though, when I was doing those top moves it felt like divine intervention. It felt like god was willing my hand to grip and my shoe to stay smeared on the slab. I was screaming like a maniac when I got to the top.


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Ethan Pringle. Photo: Damon Corso

UC: How do you think this makes an impact on hard bouldering in SoCal/J-Tree?
EP
: Difficulty is completely relative. There are probably "v3" mantles in J-tree that would take me longer to do than this climb. But, Iron Res is probably the hardest, and one of the coolest rock climbs, I have ever done. It's probably a benchmark among classics in J-Tree, SoCal and just about everywhere. I'm interested to see if it will be sent anytime soon.

 
 

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