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dirt diggler (n): A climber who ignores tall, beautiful boulder problems in exchange for short, ass-dragging lowball traverses (with higher grades).
That dirt diggler Susanne just started traversing the base of Bong Resin Super High because she was scared of the exit mantle 12 whopping feet up.
ethics (n): The nebulous and incredibly subjective code by which climbers “ought” to behave as it relates to a rock or group of rocks that are completely indifferent to your tactics anyway. Often debated on supertopo.com’s forum, the 4chan of the online climbing community.
Yesterday, Phil stirred up some controversy by posting about his ethical right to rapbolt Supercrack of the Desert.
"Good job!” (phr): Said to a frenemy you really hoped would fail to send but somehow did. Might also be accompanied by a fist bump and a quick “J-YEAH!”
Hong-point (v): To send a route by walking beneath it, beta-miming and/or working out moves in your mind, and simply saying, “I could do that.” Modeled after the great Steve Hong, the Chuck Norris of climbing. Hong is so diesel that by merely visualizing beta, he telepathically shatters all the holds on a route. Also, if he says, “I could do that,” he surely will.
Dude, after I redpointed Defenseless Betty on my 53rd try, I Hong-pointed Simply Read with no rest!
Indian Creek (n): A sun-baked, crack-climbing, toprope theme park somewhere in Utah. The legal minimum party size for safety is 30 people, one of whom is the designated “leader” who strings ropes for the other party members—themselves obligated for liability reasons not to permit climbers from other parties to attempt said routes or use the ropes. For the privilege of climbing here, one must also defecate into a little bag and carry it home. See also Devil’s Lake, Wisconsin: the exact same thing minus the sun, lead climbing, and bag-shittery.
Yay! Spring break! I can’t wait to go to Indian Creek with 5,000 of my new best friends! Load up the Rocket Box with the djembes, devil sticks, guitars, kayaks, and Frisbees!
linkage (n): Doing more than one move in a row (hooray, wow, good job)—a feat that must be shared with other climbers who care only about their own linkage.
Sweet linkage on Poop-Chute Panda, bro. Now let’s drive down canyon so you can belay me for three or four hours while I hunt for kneebars in the Chaugle Cave.
link-up (n): A new “route” that strings together sections of existing routes… that you’ve already totally wired. Thus, by the time you’ve beta’ed down a 5.13c to 5.11 and dialed the 5.13a next to it, you can string them together for a new “5.14 link-up” even it only feels like 5.12a.
Scorecard’s lagging a little there, Dave-O. Wanna have a link-up party at Primo Wall?
moderate (n): Anything easier than V10 or 5.14, despite the fact that 99 percent of the climbing population will never even sniff these grades.
We had a great day at Smeagol’s Pond, warming up on some V9 talus highballs, 5.13 free solos, and other dead-easy moderates of no consequence to anyone other than punter morons.
making progress (v): Failing to send a boulder problem, yet sharing preemptive beta and video anyway, in the rare event that you send.
Yesterday on Arête Style Dysfunction, I tried the new dicksmear move and got my feet up sooner and was totally making progress. Check my YouTube channel, betaslave4lyfe.
Mountain Project’ing (n, v): Monday-morning quarterbacking on the grade, style, and/or placement of hardware on an established route that appears in mountainproject.com’s database. Literally the most common on Monday mornings, after the throngs have pillaged the cliffs. Mountain Project’ing can also involve using the site’s comment fields and tick features as an ersatz, not-sosubtle scorecard.
Classic Mountain Project’ing: Fingerhutwackjob was popping off yet again about the “controversial” 5.13a grade on Slab Princess and threatening to “trad climb” it without the bolts.
n00bling (n, v): Slowly hang-thrash-aiding your way up a route at least two number grades too difficult, because no one bothered to take you aside and, in a mentorly fashion, suggest working through the grades. May include: holding onto a quickdraw and staring slackly upward, even though your belayer has you on tension; clomping at the wall with Clydesdale footwork as you delaminate your board-lasted planks; and loud yet ineffective swearing and grunting, especially among males. Often done in the rock gym and with a daisy chain strung up in one’s perineal region.
Another five minutes of n00bling and that frat boy will have been on that 5.12 for two hours, though he’s probably only freed two percent of the moves.
pad-stash (v): To be so feckin’ lazy and self-absorbed that you “hide” your crashpad under the boulders (to rot and for the animals to devour) to avoid carrying it each time on a “long approach.” Note: if you think stashing is OK, try eating a big plate of shredded foam and nylon. Now you know how the marmots feel.
Fabian always stashes—he is such a delicate V12-sending flower that carrying 10 pounds of foam two miles up a tourist trail might aggravate his knock-knees.
piss on/shit on/take a dump on (v): To so thoroughly own a climb and/or boulder problem, it’s as if said climb has had the good fortune to become a receptacle for your bodily wastes. The opposite of n00bling.
M-Bagz literally shit on Dumper Boy Headwall: Homeslice was smoother than the “pudding” in his back-spackled undershorts.
poodling (n): The endless, procrastinatory primping, preening, chalking, beta-pantomiming, Euro-blowing, hold-brushing rituals boulderers enact below project problems. More generally, any procrastinatory ritual while climbing.
Quit poodling and get the hell on up the cliffy crag-face!!!
power-spot (v): To push someone up a problem they’d have no chance of doing otherwise, prepping for their ultimate, dab-plagued “send” of same.
Rafe wears special wrist- and elbow-guards when he power-spots Rachel, so he can shove her into the wall with maximum force.
rappelling (n): Down-roping from a perfectly serviceable lowering anchor, with long-lasting stainless-steel rings, after an absurd, dangerous volley of yelling and miscommunication between climber and belayer.
Lila: “I’m off belay, Jerry,” said atop a 30-foot sport
route.
Jerry: “Am I lowering you, Lila?”
Lila: “WHAAAAT,
Jerry?!”
Jerry: “Are you rappelling?”
Lila: “Am I on
belay again?”
Jerry: “WHAAAAT? Off belay?”
Lila: “Are you lowering
me? Off belay, Jerry!”
Jerry: “OK. Belay on! Get ready to rappel!”
Lila:
“SLAAAACK!!! My daisy chain is caught in the rope!!!”
Rifle Mountain Park (n): A hot, ruff-n-ready singles “canyon” full of misbehaving canines and lined by chipped choss that blocks out the sunlight. Note: old-school Rifle 5.13d’s from 20 years ago are still done less frequently than recent 5.14s.
I’m heading down to the bus station to score some crack and turn tricks for gas money to Rifle.
sending biscuits (n): The foodstuffs a climber will use to gain power either through actual ingestion of vitamins and vital nutrients, or a mental increase in strength through delicious snacks.
The only reason Honnold climbs so tough is because he consumes whole trays of his sending biscuits—Oreos—dipped in rendered bumbler fat.
send train (n): A climber-upon-climber ascent of a particular route or problem, generally done after the “engine” painstakingly deciphers the beta, which his “friends” then soak with impunity. The “caboose” gets to down-rate the hardest.
Choo-choo, woo-oo-woo! Chugga-chuggachugga- chugga. Send train’s rolling down the tracks, bishes!
Sharma (proper n): A man so good at climbing he only has to go by one name, not unlike Usher, Sting, Madonna, Prince, and Jesus.
Sharma is coming. Tickets $5.
sit start (n): A contrived, ass-in-the-dirt way to begin a boulder problem, to make short, silly rocks seem a little taller. Connoisseurs have been known to excavate “launch holes” for their buttocks, or to put cheater stones beneath their coccyxes. Caution: can cause depravity and hantavirus.
OK, kr33m b3at3r is only four feet tall, but it’s six feet of climbing if you tack on the way-proud sit start.
sponsorshipness (n, v): The state or act of being sponsored by an equipment company. Being paid or given free product, somewhat inexplicably, to climb rocks—an activity of limited value to anyone other than the practitioner.
Rick pranced about the campground in a cut-off Justin Bieber T-shirt and a pair of diarrhea-spattered man-pris, bragging to anyone in a puffy jacket about his joy at his newfound sponsorshipness: two free blocks of chalk per year!
sport climbing (v): How one prepares for trad climbing.
spraycation (n): A trip to a well-known, softly graded climbing area to bump up the points on your 8a.nu scorecard and/or blog about your ascents, in the hopes of earning respect from much stronger climbers (who hate you anyway).
I dropped back to 112 in the 8a.nu rankings, so I’m heading to Jack’s Canyon for a two-day spraycation.
“The climbing community has spoken.” (phr): Tired phrase used by a handful of vocal cyber-bullies to “validate” whatever point they’ve jammed down your throat on some loser forum.
The 16th kneebar on Jumbo Choad Rally is totally off-route and for climbers with poor ethics, and in fact all the hangers should be hammered flat. The climbing community has spoken.
trad climbing (v): Working into submission an established sport climb with marginal natural pro placements, then leading it while skipping the bolts and placing natural gear.
I’m going to Sportlandia tomorrow to trad-climb Rusty Trombone. Check my blog for updates and a 20,000-word rant about bolts.
warm-ups (n): See moderates