UrbanClimber Magazine
Sasha DiGuilian
BY CAROLINE TREADWAY // FROM UC #38

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Photo by Caroline Treadway

PINK POINTS //

Hometown: Old Town, Alexandria, Virginia
Height: 5’3”
Ape Index: +2
In it: 11 years
Proudest send: Botanics(5.14a), Rodellar, Spain; Pal Sur (5.13c), Margalef, Spain
Sponsors: Native Eyewear, Mad Rock, Verve, Bluewater Ropes

In 1999, seven-year-old Sasha DiGiulian walked into an Arlington, Virginia, climbing gym for her big brother’s birthday party. Eleven years and a trunkful of trophies later, the seventeen-year-old climbing phenom still trains at Sportrock, where she recently nabbed fourth at the February ABS bouldering nationals, one month after winning the Sport Climbing Series National Championships in Salt Lake City. Weekdays, DiGiulian is up at 6 a.m. for cardio, heads to school, trains for 2-3 hours, tackles homework, studies for the SATs, eats dinner, and still manages to chill with her friends. In her spare time, she climbs internationally, fights childhood obesity as an Outdoor Nation climbing ambassador, and crunches numbers competitively as a Potomac School mathlete.

She’s claimed four junior national titles, won Hound Ears in 2009, onsighted Zero Zero (V10) in Squamish (at age 13!), and onsighted Pal Sur (5.13c) in Margalef, Spain. Last year, DiGiulian climbed her hardest route yet — a 5.14a in Spain she sent on her sixth try — and isn’t about to slow down. With the World Cup circuit on her summer agenda, and new 5.14s on the horizon, this future surgeon has all the drive, talent, and dedication it takes to be a true professional.

How would you describe yourself? I don’t like stereotypes. I like to give everybody a chance. I’m driven in academics and climbing, and I like to work hard. Academics are definitely really important to me. My family is like, ‘OK, you can climb as long as you get good grades.’ I really care about being healthy. When you’re active and eat well, you feel better. It’s something I believe in.

What motivates you? Comps motivate me, also outside goals. Comps are good checkpoints in your training. If I train hard for a comp and do well, it’s motivation to keep training. Same with outside. I got a 14a last summer, can I get a 14b this summer, or two 14as? Botanics was the first 5.14a I tried. I got it in six tries — the most I’ve ever tried anything.

How do you mentally prepare for comps? I think of it as an ordinary day of practice. When I walk up to a route, I think, “OK, no pressure, it doesn’t matter.” Once I distract myself from the reality of the situation, I’m not thinking about falling. If you think about falling, you’re inevitably going to fall.



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