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Inspiring interviews from the greatest climbers out there
GET DRIVEN BY: Reinhard Fichtinger, John Evans, Whitney Hoose, Brad Weaver, Lynn Hill, Christian Core, Jonathan Siegrist, Colette McInerney, Courtney Hemphill, Sam Elias, Joel Zerr, Christina Pilo, Angela Payne, Dave Marquess, Melissa Lacasse, Lee Means, Lauren Lee, Ethan Pringle, Liz Hajek, The Chancellor Brothers ...
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 Liu Yong "Abond" Bang
Abond has only been climbing for six years and already is one of China’s strongmen, putting up his first 5.14 at the age of 19. Unlike many young climbers, Abond has been a huge asset to China’s climbing industry, playing an instrumental role in finding, developing, and maintaining new crags and lines. Although Abond’s passion lies in climbing hard lines and pushing physical limits, it is his self-proclaimed “job” to educate his climbing community and help China evolve into an accessible and premier destination for international climbers.  Phillip Schaal
The only hint to the fact that Phil Schaal is finishing his third decade on this planet is his wise sense of calm and focus. Schaal quickly gained notice in the climbing community with his extensive double-digit tick list last year, including the RMNP testpiece Jade (V14/15). This easygoing New England native is in peak physical condition, and with his unmatched determination, his sending streaks will surely continue.  Jacinda Hunter
Though she describes herself as “a mother with a job and a hobby,” most of her fans in the climbing community would describe her as one of the frontrunners for being the strongest female climber out there. Her FA of Fantasy Island (5.14b) in American Fork Canyon, Utah, secured her status as a bona fide 5.14 climber, among the likes of Emily Harrington and Beth Rodden. With four kids and a full-time job as a nurse, Hunter relies on her husband, Mike, to help with her carefully orchestrated schedule, which involves getting up pre-dawn to tackle her projects.  Jamie Emerson
Jamie Emerson began climbing in 1998 at a small sandstone cliff in Grand Ledge, Michigan, where he grew up. While earning a bachelor’s degree in earth science from Michigan State University, Jamie climbed at the tiny crag five days a week and memorized every move on every route. That year, Todd Skinner gave a slideshow at MSU that fully converted Emerson to climbing. In 2003, he moved to Boulder, Colorado, began setting routes at The Spot bouldering gym, and within a year was setting for national competitions.  Amanda Berezowski
For Amanda Berezowski, climbing is life. Well, it’s what she wants life to be, at least. The low-key Canadian crusher lives on Vancouver Island, tending to a plant sanctuary during the week and killing boulders on the weekend. Figuring out how to make climbing her weekday routine has proven more difficult than any boulder she’s faced.  Jimmy Webb
For those that think the best climbers live in Colorado or California, meet Jimmy Webb. At 22, this good ol’ Tennessee boy is crushing in Colorado country, leaving no boulder unclimbed. His most recent ascent of Jade (only its seventh) and suggestion for downgrading the problem has Webb making waves in the climbing community. Not to mention his guerrilla sending tour of the West’s best problems, including The Automator (V13) and Top Notch (V13), both of Rocky Mountain National Park.  Nicky Dyal
Warm-blooded American males should be looking forward to December 2010. That’s the month that Nicky Dyal, 27, will be gracing their walls in Sharp End Publishing’s annual “Women of Climbing” calendar. As cover girl for the calendar in 2008, Dyal returns in 2010, representing East Coast climbers as a daughter of the Gunks. Now living on the West Coast in San Francisco, Dyal leads a fun and spontaneous lifestyle working for a think tank six months out of the year, and no doubt climbing the rest of the time.  Caroline Treadway
Journalist. Climber. Photographer. Writer. Barefoot runner. My Little Pony enthusiast. Those are just a few descriptors for Caroline Treadway, who spent her first year as a “photographer” on the couch with a knee injury from bouldering, which she describes as “a good thing because it took a while to figure out all those buttons.” Originally from Washington, D.C., Treadway enjoyed the international and diverse scene, even going to school with ambassadors’ kids and an Arabian prince who had bodyguards.  John Dickey
For a kid that grew up all over the globe, John Dickey, 35, sure is down to earth. Regarding how to take a good photograph, he says, “no top ropes including gear clipped above your head on lead,” shade is not an excuse not to shoot, and “no V3 climbers posing on V9s just because they’re busty or want their photo in the mags.” We couldn’t agree more. Dickey is a no-holds-barred type of photographer; he knows what he likes, and he always gets the job done.  Nick Martino
Once a full-time road warrior, Nick Martino, 29, recently traded his truck for a Honda Civic and settled down in Boulder, Colorado, where he’s studying international affairs with a focus on the Middle East. That doesn’t mean he’s stopped cranking though — he recently returned from Hueco Tanks, where he collected power points to be used on hard trad projects.  Emily Harrington
Emily Harrington, 23, is a full-time pro climber who’s been cranking for over a decade. “I started when I was 11 — I was into gymnastics and ski racing, but I got bored with them,” she says. Born and raised in Boulder, Colorado, she started climbing at the Boulder Rock Club, and within a year had won her first roped Junior Nationals.  Justin Edl
Justin Edl, 28, has been wedging himself into big cracks for the last 10 years, putting up a bunch of hard first ascents, most notably in Vedauwoo, Wyoming. In August 2009, the Laramie, Wyoming, native established Home on the Range (5.14-), a 50-foot, rightslanting crack rumored to be one of the hardest trad lines in America.  DENISE STRZEMPEK
My dream climbing trip is pretty simple — it could take place anywhere there are beautiful routes or boulders and good people that want to try hard, but laugh too. Some other ingredients would be: a cozy bed to retire in after a long day of climbing, some tasty chocolates, and sardines with mustard (not on the same cracker); good food and spirits, nice weather with great sunsets, and steaming hot showers, too. To complete the dream I send my project!  SAID BELHAJ
For the pure climbing experience, and the style that I like most, I’d say you never have to go anywhere else in the world but Spain and France for incredible sport climbing. But, I’ll admit that it’s also interesting to visit new places. I’ve climbed in 20 different countries so far and have had great experiences in all of them.  GRADY BAGWELL
You lived on a portaledge for a while. What’s the story? I slept, ate and lived on one for a week to support good climbing causes. We raised over $1,200 for the Access Fund and the Red River Climber’s Coalition. It was one of the best/craziest/most boring experiences I can remember in a while. I couldn’t really climb and settled for counting T-nuts on the lead wall.  STEPHEN MEINHOLD
Climbing is an amazing sport, but remember there is a lot more to it. It will take you to many beautiful places and you will meet amazing people. Just remember to keep your eyes open, and not just pay attention to what you’re doing, but to what, and who is around you.  KASIA JADWIGA PIETRAS
I have so many projects ‘cause there are so many great climbs out there. I don’t feel like spending more than a try on anything. The route is lucky if I get on it twice.  Jesse and Tyler Youngwerth (A.K.A. the Mad Rock Twins)
Who is your favorite professional female climber? Jesse: Lisa Rands and Angie Payne; Tyler: Angie Payne.  Vasya Vorotnikov
F**k superheroes. Superman can fly, Spiderman has the webbing skills, Batman just uses high-tech shwag, and don't even get me started on all the X-men. Whoopie-doo! But seriously, it'd be fun to be able to set someone's hair on fire without anyone knowing it was you  Angela Payne
Last year my boyfriend, Jamie, and I traveled around for six months to major bouldering areas including: Hueco, Squamish, Joe's Valley, Horse Pens, Rock Town, Little Rock City, and Bishop. |
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