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Inspiring interviews from the greatest climbers out there
GET DRIVEN BY: Reinhard Fichtinger, John Evans, Whitney Hoose, Brad Weaver, Lynn Hill, Christian Core, Jonathan Siegrist, Colette McInerney, Courtney Hemphill, Sam Elias, Joel Zerr, Christina Pilo, Angela Payne, Dave Marquess, Melissa Lacasse, Lee Means, Lauren Lee, Ethan Pringle, Liz Hajek, The Chancellor Brothers ...
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 Caroline Treadway
Journalist. Climber. Photographer. Writer. Barefoot runner. My Little Pony enthusiast. Those are just a few descriptors for Caroline Treadway, who spent her first year as a “photographer” on the couch with a knee injury from bouldering, which she describes as “a good thing because it took a while to figure out all those buttons.” Originally from Washington, D.C., Treadway enjoyed the international and diverse scene, even going to school with ambassadors’ kids and an Arabian prince who had bodyguards.  John Dickey
For a kid that grew up all over the globe, John Dickey, 35, sure is down to earth. Regarding how to take a good photograph, he says, “no top ropes including gear clipped above your head on lead,” shade is not an excuse not to shoot, and “no V3 climbers posing on V9s just because they’re busty or want their photo in the mags.” We couldn’t agree more. Dickey is a no-holds-barred type of photographer; he knows what he likes, and he always gets the job done.  Jon Cardwell
Jon Cardwell, the New Mexico native who recently turned 21, has been spending much of the last few years in Europe climbing, sending, and working on something called The Island with Dave Graham and company. He’s accrued an impressive tick list in both sport climbing and bouldering, and given his streak, the list will, continue to grow.  Sasha DiGuilian
In 1999, seven-year-old Sasha DiGiulian walked into an Arlington, Virginia, climbing gym for her big brother’s birthday party. Eleven years and a trunkful of trophies later, the seventeen-year-old climbing phenom still trains at Sportrock, where she recently nabbed fourth at the February ABS bouldering nationals, one month after winning the Sport Climbing Series National Championships in Salt Lake City.  Nick Martino
Once a full-time road warrior, Nick Martino, 29, recently traded his truck for a Honda Civic and settled down in Boulder, Colorado, where he’s studying international affairs with a focus on the Middle East. That doesn’t mean he’s stopped cranking though — he recently returned from Hueco Tanks, where he collected power points to be used on hard trad projects.  Emily Harrington
Emily Harrington, 23, is a full-time pro climber who’s been cranking for over a decade. “I started when I was 11 — I was into gymnastics and ski racing, but I got bored with them,” she says. Born and raised in Boulder, Colorado, she started climbing at the Boulder Rock Club, and within a year had won her first roped Junior Nationals.  Justin Edl
Justin Edl, 28, has been wedging himself into big cracks for the last 10 years, putting up a bunch of hard first ascents, most notably in Vedauwoo, Wyoming. In August 2009, the Laramie, Wyoming, native established Home on the Range (5.14-), a 50-foot, rightslanting crack rumored to be one of the hardest trad lines in America.  JON GLASSBERG
Jon Glassberg’s a bit of an outlier. He’s relatively tall (6’3”) and heavy (185 lbs.) for a climber, but has still managed some crimpy testpieces, including Bishop’s Mandala and Secret Splendor in Rocky Mountain National Park. Also unusual: he has two college degrees (he’s only 25). Lastly, Glassberg spends a lot of time working towards the growth of the climbing community . . . but without trying to make a living doing it. Why would he do that? How can he? Read on!  KELSEY FAIR
Kelsey Fair, 21, hails from Toronto, but spent much of her early life moving around: New York, Oregon, California, Switzerland . . . Most recently, she landed in Los Angeles, but has been on the road for the past year or so with her boyfriend and fellow climber, Ryan Held. Together, the two tour the United States with their dog, Sharka, in a big red sprinter van, looking for the endless climbing season…and maybe the meaning of life.  KYLE OWEN
“Who is this kid?!” More than once, I heard this phrase issue from the crowd at the 2009 Bouldering World Cup at the Teva Mountain Games in Vail, Colorado. Half of the six male finalists were American, and two of those were among the best-known, strongest boulderers in the world (Paul Robinson and Daniel Woods). Going into finals, “this kid” was sandwiched between Robinson and Woods. His name: Kyle Owen.  PAIGE CLAASSEN
Paige Claassen was raised amidst the snowy peaks of the Rocky Mountains and the rough granite pillars of Lumpy Ridge. Still, the 19-year-old CU-Boulder sophomore got her start on plastic. (“My dad tried to get me into other sports, and I sucked at everything,” she says. “He took me to the gym in Estes, and it totally clicked.”) Young, polite, and humble, Claassen for years focused her efforts on comps, but today is more stoked on stone.  ALEX JOHNSON
You may have heard the name Alex Johnson before, but chances are you’re only getting half the story. In the town of Downer’s Grove, Illinois, there’s a hardcrankin’ high school senior who heaps still more credit on the already well-repped “Alex Johnson” name. This Alex Johnson, however, competes on the male side of the circuit. After discovering climbing at a YMCA in 2002, Johnson moved quickly onto the competition scene.  LAUREN LEE
Originally from Cincinnati, Ohio, Lauren Lee, 29, has been in the climbing game for over a decade. In that time, she’s graced the covers of many a climbing mag, and appeared in several vids, including Big Game and Herakleia. Today, Lee lives in Colorado Springs, Colorado, with her boyfriend, the photographer Keith Ladzinski. Outside of climbing, she says she likes “pretty much anything that consists of having fun.”  CARRIE COOPER
THE REINVENTION OF SELF // The Louisville, Kentucky, native Carrie Cooper has packed a whole lotta livin’ into her 30 years on Earth. In addition to bouldering for nearly a decade and sending scores of hard problems up to V10 (she’s actually flashed the grade, but never tried anything harder…), she’s been a modern dancer, studied psychology, and traveled to dozens of countries.  SHADOW AYALA
When I first met the Berkeley, California native Shadow Ayala, it felt like I was encountering a long-lost friend. A nomad, the 37-year-old has been on the road since he was 8. He found climbing six years ago, adding it to his roster of interests/ occupations, like touring the states in a metal band and shooting photographs as though it was a life’s journal.  Thomasina Pidgeon
Thomasina Pidgeon is a rare bird indeed. She’s a single mother who, on a recent two-month stint in Hueco, sent Rumble in the Jungle (V12) and nabbed the first female ascent of The Butterpumper (V12), with her daughter, Cedar, by her side. (She also won this year’s Hueco Rock Rodeo.) Thomasina’s smile and spirit are contagious, and Cedar inherited both charming qualities. The pair calls Squamish, British Columbia, home, but they’re also nomadic, living out of a Toyota van while on the road.  Noah Kaufman
The Chicago native Noah Kaufman, 34, is a true Renaissance man. He’s not only a medical doctor (Tulane Medical School, class of 2003), but also a double-digit climber, slackline master, and filmmaker (his new joint, Try Harder, will be available soon). He currently lives in South Lake Tahoe with his soon-to-be wife and fellow climber/doctor, Siemay Lee, and holds down sick dream jobs you’ll never get.  Reinhard Fichtinger
Reinhard “Reini” Fichtinger, 33, lives in “Innsbrooklyn,” where he works as a photographer, shooting for outdoor companies like Adidas, Vaude, and Red Bull, and European climbing mags, including the new Austrian publication Climax. Fichtinger also routesets for gyms around Austria and has an international setter’s license.  John Evans
At 46, John Evans has been shooting at a professional level for the last 10 years. In that time, he's jugged up some of the hardest sport routes on Earth. Originally from Vermont, Evans now lives in Salt Lake City with his wife, identical twin boys, and dog, and works as Marketing Director for Petzl North America.  Whitney Hoose
Off the top of my head I’d say I’m passionate, dedicated, and honest. I can have fun and be all business at the same time. I also love to help other people be successful in their climbing. I took a poll on this, too, because I found it hard to describe myself. The feedback I got was: super motivated, thoughtful, spiritual, easy going and conscious of my surroundings . . . oh, and I believe someone mentioned gorgeous! |
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