The climbing gym of yore was a cinderblock traverse with rocks bolted on as primitive
artificial holds. During these simple times, the proto-climber honed his/herself in the absence
of high-carbon rubber, the Black Eyed Peas, or bar-form food products. But modern gyms have
morphed into something that is equal parts night club, meat market, and Olympic training
facility, forcing today’s climber to grapple with a complex gym culture, riddled with pitfalls
waiting to snare the unwary.
For both the uninitiated as well as elders of our tribe, questions may loom: How should
the modern climber engage in spraying, if at all? Should gratuitous grunting be tolerated?
How does one go about attracting like-minded mates? To help you better understand the
mores of this all but unnavigable world, we’ve outlined below some rules of etiquette for
major areas of gym life. For your sake and ours, take note.
SENDING: At some point in nearly every
climber’s career, you will send hard. But just
as you learned when you played AYSO soccer,
there are good ways and bad ways to be a
winner. Lest the greatness of success blind you
to social convention, these simple rules apply.
DO send.
In the climbing community, sending is generally
always smiled upon and is believed to confer
salvation in the afterlife. Go forth and send.
DON’T send in another climber’s face.
If a fellow climber has been repeatedly thwarted
by a route or boulder problem, it’s considered
good form to wait a bit before effortlessly
cruising the route. The more humiliating the
failed attempts, the longer the corresponding
wait period. Use good judgment. Braggadocio
is always unbecoming and violates the best
practices of “Dating” and “Spraying.”
DO: Grab the finishing jug then look down to spot a clear drop zone.
DON’T: Grab the
finishing jug then look a weaker climber in the face after you walk up his project.
SPRAYING: We climbers feed on beta; it grants us transcendence in a galaxy mercilessly ruled
by gravity. The most minuscule tidbits can mean the difference between a mat-bound ass and
the everlasting glory of “Sending” (see above). But while the free exchange of ideas can build
camaraderie and lead to greater understanding, it is not always welcome. Polite company must
understand these rules of engagement.
DO politely offer beta, but always allow the receiving party to demur.
This is a tasteful and generous course of action—you wouldn’t want to blow someone’s onsight
or rob him of the beta-discovery process. Usually, when people want beta, they’ll ask for it.
DON’T launch into an an unsolicited deluge of information, a tidal wave of “helpful” words.
Tacky, tacky, tacky. Serious offenses will hinder your chances of successful courting (see “Dating”).
In short, to be asked for beta is an honor, to spray is indecent.
BRUSHING: You meticulously brush the
holds of a problem you’re working. You hang
in a strenuous position from an adjacent
problem performing the precise amount of
strokes needed to clean each imperceptible
divot only to set down your brush and… Watch
some inconsiderate nincompoop smudge his
way through your problem. Never hop on a
pristine problem unless you are the person
who has just done the brushing.
DO use this inert white powder to increase
the coefficient of skin-on-plastic friction.
DON’T chalk up someone’s freshly brushed
boulder problem.
GRUNTING: We as a tribe view ourselves as
more highly evolved than other gym-going life
forms who routinely growl and bellow under
the weight of loaded barbells like rutting water
buffalo. But the tortured groans of boulderers
still pierce the air of some rock gyms like those
on the court at a Wimbledon semi-final.
DO take pity on the badly afflicted.
Regrettably, this auditory discharge is a naturally
occurring, unpreventable part of the climbing
process. It is a necessary evil and must be
tolerated as such.
DON’T imagine that grunting is a way to attract
the romantic attention of potential mates
(see “Dating”).
DATING: Apart from sending, this is virtually the
only reason to climb, and is the primary force
that has shaped the modern gym as we know it.
DO wait your turn.
As with sending, if a fellow climber has been
repeatedly thwarted in his/her attempts, it is
considered good practice to wait a bit before
dating another climber. Again, the more humiliating
the failed attempts, the longer the
corresponding wait period. Use good judgment.
DON’T let dating jeopardize your access to
the local gym.
Dating and sending must always be carefully
managed so as not to interfere with one another.
Use good judgment.
Note: Empirical evidence is inconclusive on
whether, and how, sending affects dating. But
dating almost always affects sending.