UrbanClimber Magazine

The FA #48 - Viper Crack

By Cole Fennel


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Chad Watkins strong-arms his way up the overhanging and powerful Viper Crack.

Grade: 5.12–
Style: Trad; crack
FA’er: Cole Fennel
Area: The City Bluffs, Calico Rock, Arkansas
Date: April 2, 2011

THE BETA

While Arkansas' new route explosion continues in and around the Horseshoe Canyon region, climbers are also seeking crags in lesser-known areas of the Natural State. One region in particular, the White River crags of northeastern Arkansas, is still in the early phases of development, but an amazing steep splitter, Viper Crack, stands above the rest.

Despite its meager height of 40 feet, Viper provides intoxicating exposure from the get-go. From the rappel-accessed belay ledge, the route forces you to campus a short roof crack with nothing but 140 feet of air between you and the banks of the White River. Once the lip is gained, you get your first view of the venomous splitter—a 25-degree-overhanging, flared finger and hand crack, followed by a wide, even steeper 5.10 section. To intensify the encounter: The gear is trickiest when the climbing is most desperate. Belay your second from the obvious tree at the top.

HOW TO GET THERE

Take Highway 5 south out of Calico Rock, resetting your odometer at the White River bridge. After 2.4 miles, take a right on Culp Road. Follow Culp for 2.1 miles and park at the boulderlined pullout on the right side of the road—the boulders keep the locals from driving their cars to the cliff edge. Walk 50 feet or so into the clearing, and notice the two pine trees on the cliff edge. From the right-hand of the two trees, rappel 35 feet to a ledge. Traverse the ledge right—you’ll soon be under a roof—to reach the first set of belay bolts. This is the start to Viper Crack.

 
 
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