|
||||
![]() Chris Webb Parsons on Diabolique (V13) Hueco Tanks, TX. Photo by Dave Pearson
|
What do pro climbers do when injury sidelines them?
Injuries can be a big mixed blessing for climbers, especially the super-obsessed, pro-grade, variety. On the one hand, the injured climber can’t climb, which is obviously very frustrating. On the other, with no way to follow through on their obsession, the injured climber is forced/allowed to finally get after all those other plans he or she has been formulating for years. And getting a chance to do non-climbing things can open up new worlds, as the filmmaker Josh Lowell found out. An injury is what originally led him to pick up a video camera and start filming his buddies, resulting in the Gunks-bouldering vid Big UP, and the start of a long and fruitful filmmaking career. I caught up with four recently injured pros, to see how they’re doing and what they’re up to while they’re out of commission.
Photos courtesy of the Dave Graham Collection
|
Climber:
Dave Graham
Injury: Rolled his ankle while forerunning semifinals problems at the Bouldering World Cup, in Vail. “I did the Men's #3 bloc,” recalls Graham, “with this wild dyno to the ending hold, stuck that hold, and then proceeded to drop down like usual.” When he landed, he says, his leg went between the pads, tweaking his ankle hard. “I feel like I am cursed or something,” he says.
Status: Weeks later, the pain remains, so Graham gets around on crutches. “I ended up actually breaking the pad, and almost breaking my foot and ankle,” he says. Mid June, Graham headed to Ceüse, France. “[The injury] is frustrating,” says Graham, “but it will be more frustrating when I go to the airport on crutches.”
In the meantime: “I do the physical therapy stuff, organize this company [The Island] that I'm trying to start, work on the development of the website for it, and organize the film we’re starting to make as soon as we arrive in Europe.”
Moral of the story: No good deed goes unpunished.
![]() Chris Webb Parsons on Bleeding Brothers (V12) Hueco Tanks, TX. Photo by Dave Pearson
|
![]() Parsons on Diabolique (V13) Hueco Tanks, TX. Photo by Dave Pearson
|
Climber:
Chris Webb Parsons
Injury: The Aussie strongman best known in the states for being the only person to repeat Dai Koyamada’s super-problem, The Wheel of Life (V16), in the Grampians tore his labrum while visiting the Western United States this winter. “I'm not sure why my shoulder dislocated,” he says. “I’ve had no problems with my shoulders in the past.”
Status: Back in Oz, Webb Parsons went under the knife, and now has four screws in his shoulder, according to his website, chriswebbparsons.com. “The Surgeon told me that I should be climbing in October, but no promises,” he said in an email. “My estimated Recovery time is 6-8 months.”
In the meantime: “I tried to get into road [biking], but my shoulder just isn’t up to it yet, so I'll have to wait another month or two for that,” he says. “So for now I’m just trying to eat healthy and keep fit by bush walking to find new climbing areas in Australia.”
Moral of the story: “I had no insurance, so it’s cost me about $15,000 so far. If I have any advice for climbers out there, it would be get insurance!”
Photos courtesy of the Angie Payne Collection
|
Climber:
Angie Payne
Injury: Payne “sprained the crap” out of her ankle while bouldering at the CATS gym in Boulder, in 2008. (“Took a fall I’ve taken a hundred times before, and hit the pad wrong,” she explains). Payne wore a boot and did physical therapy for four weeks, and then started climbing again after cleared by her doctor. The pain was persistent, though, and an MRI five months later showed persistent bone bruising and loose cartilage.
Status: Payne’s back in the boot, hoping more rest time resolves things. “Surgery was mentioned as an option” she explains, “but the doctor thinks we should try a less aggressive approach first.”
In the meantime: “I'm working towards going to vet school,” says Payne, “so I guess I can use the downtime to study for the GRE.” And on the fitness front, she’s been looking into “one-legged training” options.
Moral of the story: Get a second opinion.
![]() Photos courtesy of ethanpringle.com
|
![]() Photos courtesy of ethanpringle.com
|
Climber:
Ethan Pringle
Injury: During this year’s ABS Nationals in Boulder, Colorado (held on Valentine’s Day), Pringle made a big “campus/dyno rose move,” according to his blog, ethanpringle.com, on Men’s Finals Problem #4 and blew out his shoulder.
Status: After getting an MRI and several doctor’s opinions, it seemed as if Pringle was suffering from a badly torn labrum. Three months post-injury, he decided to go ahead with surgery. “[They] drilled two holes in the front and the back, stuck cameras in there to make sure what they thought was actually torn was,” Pringle explained in an email. “Then they stitched it back together with, I'm assuming, some biodegradable stitches.” The op went smoothly, and Pringle started rehab in late-June.
![]() Photos courtesy of ethanpringle.com
|
![]() Photos courtesy of ethanpringle.com
|
In the meantime: “I visited NY for the first time...[and] I’m taking a couple classes at City College of San Francisco. It feels a bit weird to be sitting in a classroom after running around outside for the last five years.”
Moral of the story: Avoid big, campus/dyno rose moves at all costs.