UrbanClimber Magazine

411 - #7 > October/November 2005

Information Sevice/News

LIKE THE WIND
Today, electricity production is the leading cause of greenhouse gas emissions that contribute to global climate change. Wind power is a clean and renewable alternative energy source that produces no greenhouse gas emissions or waste products. With the launch of its Natural Power Initiative, Prana is helping its retailers move toward climate-neutral operations by purchasing 3,000 Megawatt Hours in the form of renewable wind power energy. Each of the initial 100 participating stores will be given signage noting that 100 percent of that store's electricity will be offset by a natural, clean renewable source. "The word Prana is synonymous with breath. Investing in wind as a natural source of power is a perfect fit for us," said Beaver Theodosakis, founder and owner of Prana. Prana will also be offsetting 100 percent of the electrical energy use of its Vista, California, headquarters and the homes of all its full-time employees beginning in October 2005. The company's goal is to be the first manufacturer of clothing "made with certified green-e wind generated power." For more, check Prana out online at www.prana.com.

NICE THREADS
With its recycled soda bottle fleece and organic cotton, Patagonia is a company already known for environmental activism. Now it's upping the ante yet again with the Common Threads Recycling Program. In conjunction with Teijin, a progressive fabric manufacturer in Japan, Patagonia will launch the Common Threads Program, which allows customers to return their worn-out Capilene baselayers to be recycled. Patagonia uses the worn-out baselayers to make new polyester fiber, a process which has a significantly lower impact on the environment than making the same fibers from virgin materials. "Our goal is to take responsibility for every product we make. This includes responsibility for the fibers a garment is made of, as well as what happens to a product at the end of its useful life." Said Michael Crooke, president and CEO of Patagonia. Customers may return used Capilene baselayers to Patagonia, via mail or at any of the 20 Patagonia retail stores nationwide. More at www.patagonia.com.

ROPE REINCARNATION
Climbing Rope Bracelets, a company in Boulder, Colorado, makes bracelets and key chains out of old climbing ropes that are donated by climbing gyms or organizations like Outward Bound. Not only does Climbing Rope Bracelets keep foot after foot of worn-out climbing rope from ending up in a landfill, but the company's CEO, Dan Jenkins, has just announced that for every rope that is donated, Climbing Rope Bracelets will award $10 to the non-profit of the donator's choice (a list of recommended organizations is available). Climbing Rope Bracelets will even reimburse shipping costs for those donated ropes. Go to www.climbingropebracelets.com

RED LABEL
Black Diamond (BD) Red Label has replaced Franklin Climbing Equipment (FCE). The new BD Red Label will go on all former FCE pads, chalk and accessories as well as new products like the Necessaire brush set, Butler pad and series of tote bags. "Bouldering is a central discipline in the climbing world," Chris Grover said, explaining the creation of Red Label, "and Black Diamond is and always has been about all climbing disciplines." You can see what Black Diamond has to offer at bdel.com.

PARTING WAYS
In other BD-related news: Scarpa North America has established new offices in Boulder, Colorado after terminating their 18-year relationship with Black Diamond. What does this mean to climbers? Apparently it means that Scarpa North America will bring in a broader offering of quality Scarpa rock shoes with lower prices. Scarpa's site is www.scarpa.co.uk/rock/index.html.

MAXIMUM RANDS
Though she probably won't be hanging up her crash pad anytime soon, pro climber Lisa Rands has signed on with Team Maxim. This means she will serve as the ambassador for New England Ropes (maker of Maxim Ropes) to the greater climbing community. For more on New England Ropes, go to neropes.com. For more on Lisa, hit up www.lisarands.com.

RED ROUTES
The new 304-page color guidebook to the routes of the Red River Gorge is out now (as of September 1st). The guide, written by Ray Ellington, covers sport and trad routes and features several new areas, like the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve and Muir Valley. Ellington has pledged to give 20 percent of profits from the book to the Red River Gorge Climber's Coalition, which works to maintain access to climbing at the Red. Order your copy of the new comprehensive guide to climbing in the Red from wolverinepublishing.com. Get more info on the new guide and check out the online guidebook at the highly informative redriverclimbing.com.

 

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Eye Candy: Climbing Videos Reviewed

Red River Ruckus
Reviewed by Joe Iurato
A Spencer Victory film
Victory Productions 2005
www.victoryproductionstn.com

The Story
The Red River Gorge in Slade, Kentucky boasts some of the best damn sport routes on the planet. Period. Not just limited to a maze of beautiful sequences, it's also a place to laugh with friends over a slice of Miguel's pizza and simply enjoy good company. In the fall of 2004, Victory Productions set out to capture their own slice of sport climbing heaven by filming some of the best lines and times the Red has to offer.

Area Covered
The Red River Gorge, Kentucky

Summary
Pockets, crimps, slopers, mud, slacklines, firecrackers, firearms, pizza (sorry, no ice cream), beer, hippies, Canadians, climbers, a hitchhiking mayor, human blowtorches, a Sumo ropegun, triple backflip sixty-foot whippers and a whole lotta fun. Victory productions takes us into the Gorge for a taste of history, incredible routes, even more incredible people and a good Southern time. It gives a sense of familiarity and comfort, makes you want to pack a bag, take another road trip and play. Spencer Victory assumed the difficult job of storyteller and succeeded in a big way. Interesting, humorous and full of pumped forearms.

Highlights
Rodney Tucker (a.k.a. The Mayor of Slade)
Sumo ropegun
Firecrackers
"Holy... whipper"
And, oh yeah, some forearm burning, teeth-gritting, hold-slapping sport climbing footage.

 

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Depthcharge: Deep Water Soloing
Reviewed by Justin Roth
Filmed and directed by Mike Weeks
Produced by Bean Sopwith
www.x1sports.com


The Story
In 2004, 16 top-level climbers - Chris Sharma, Steve McClure, and Leo Houlding among them - spent several days traveling to a remote string of limestone cliffs off the Croatian coast on the hunt for world-class deep water soloing (DWS). They found what they were looking for.

Area Covered
Kornati, Croatia

Summary
A Croatian friend of mine once told me about DWS possibilities in his home country. "The waves really crash into the rocks though," he said, deciding that maybe it wasn't a good idea after all. This crew in "Depthcharge" weren't put off by such dangers, though, and that's a good thing, because this video is pretty cool. Aside from unreal scenery and quality footage of mutant climbers chucking dynos 60 feet above the water, "Depthcharge" gives a great vibe, albeit one that inspires jealously (I'm patiently waiting for Priceline to deliver on my $100 bid for tickets to Croatia). The "worlds hardest deep water solo" is also featured in this flick, if you're into that kinda thing.

Highlights
Sharma saying "I'm not too good on the small holds - I prefer the big holds."
The "Victory Jump"
Lisa Milner, Bean Sopwith and Jess Corrie on the rocks
Jack Osbourn, of "The Osbourns" fame, inexplicably joining up with the crew
Steve McClure learning the dangers of DWS in the form of unwanted "salt water entry."
Outtakes and the Leo Houlding interview

 

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Best Of The West
Reviewed by Justin Roth
A Mike Call film
Movement Films
www.movementfilms.com


The Story
Boone Speed, Chris Sharma and Nate Gold started planning for a bouldering trip to New Zealand when they heard that Flock Hill, the hottest new area there, was closed. Left with an itch to climb, they decided to scratch it at one of America's finest bouldering areas, Hueco Tanks. A crew of gifted boulderers gathered for the cameras and raged through the area, dispensing with many of its hardest, most classic climbs.

Area Covered
Hueco Tanks, Texas

Sumary
In this movie, MC reinforces his status as one of the world's best climbing pornographers. His footage of Sharma, Gold, Jason Kehl and GP Salvo (among others) effectively raised my blood pressure. MC represents his MTV-generation with a soundtrack full of dub, electronic and indy rock. My initial concern at seeing Sharma at the center of yet another piece of climbing media was quieted by his inspiring sends. "Best of the West" is straight-up climbing action by top-level climbers crushing awe-inspiring problems, which is enough of a plot for me.

Highlights
"This is what happens after [Sharma has] a rest day." (Regarding Sharma's send of the V14, Esperanza).
Flamignon (V-way hard)
Tim Kemple defining the word "dab."
Images taken from a prop plane that make Hueco look like the moon.
Boone Speed shouting "Go Boone Speed!" to himself during a climb.

 
 

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