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411 - #29 > MAY 2009
Ronnie Jenkins, Serenity Now (V8).
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Chalky Dreams 2009
By Andy Salo
Photos By Tomás Donoso
The 2009 Chalky Dreams bouldering competition held at Moss Rock Preserve in Hoover, Alabama, was one of the most positive, laidback "competitive" events I have ever attended. Chalky Dreams was free from the egos and attitudes that often prevail in competitive settings. Strangers helped shuffle pads, spots were offered, Beta was shared (when requested), and vibes were chill. Even the forecast managed to defy expectations, as the predicted rains were pushed back in favor of sunny skies and warm temps. All told, over 200 spectators and more than 60 competitors came to enjoy the fifth installment of the event, sponsored by Mammut and the Southeastern Climbers Coalition.
Chalky Dreams began back in 2002 as a celebration of the preservation of Moss Rock, also known as Shades Crest. The boulderfield was going to undergo potential zoning changes in 2000 that could have lead to the crag’s demolition, to make way for developments. Local climber Lee Means, in college at the time, began campaigning to reverse the alterations proposed by land developers. Lee attended multiple city council board meetings hoping to give climbers a voice and convey the historical and recreational significance of Shades Crest. In late 2000 Lee's efforts (with the help of others) paid off when the city of Hoover designated 250 acres as Moss Rock Preserve.
SCC co-founder Brad McLeod, board member Paul Morley, and President Michelle Connell organizing community service awards recognizing local climbing conservationists.
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This year’s competition was comparable to a great session at a local crag. The abundance of energy lead to send trains on problems such as Jeff Wales' new-school classic Serenity Now (V8), a steep line up great incuts over a sketchy landing, and Jake Slaney's burly cave problem Re-Ignition (V9). Other classic lines including Shape Shifter (V4) and Born on the Fourth of July (V2 sandbag) saw multiple ascents, as did many more unnamed moderates. In a display of true sportsmanship, Men’s winner Ben Glazner, a local strongman, could be seen giving Beta and strategizing with the competitors on how to maximize their scores.
After six solid hours of sampling classic problems on Southeastern sandstone (interspersed with a lunchtime cookout courtesy of Mammut and Jeremy Boydston), weary climbers reconvened, hoping to collect prizes and free gear. Thanks to the sponsors, all proceeds collected from the comp went directly to the SCC, and nearly $2,000 is going towards the purchase of the historic crag known as Steele, in Alabama. More importantly than recognizing the top finishers, Paul Morley of the SCC recognized Nathan Fedor and Lee Means for their activism in helping secure access to local climbing areas. Every participant left happy and inspired, regardless of performance. The success of Moss Rock and the Chalky Dreams event should serve as an example of what can be achieved by dedicated locals intent on preserving their backyard resources.
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