Strong Steve McClure Succeeds at Malham Is this the UK's Hardest Sport Route?
The Malham Cove will never be the same. Steve McClure, 36, of Sheffield redpointed a new route in the Cove on May 28th. However, this is not just any climb…this one’s a monster. McClure’s send of the Malham route will most likely emerge as one of the hardest sport routes in the world, along with Chris Sharma's Realization (9a+) at Ceuse, France and Ramón Julián's La Rambla Direct (9a+) at Siurana, Spain.
“I spent a lot of time just not being able to do the moves, just staring blankly at the holds,” said McClure.
McClure said that it is harder than his other three top end sport routes; Mutation 9a, Northern Lights 9a, and Rainshadow 9a. Yikes.
"It felt like an 8a+ followed by an 8c+," said McClure, mentioning V12 or Font 8a+ for a bouldering grade for the crux sequence.
After about 30 days of effort, the route was unlocked and sent. As well as his 9a's and stamina-power boulder problems of a similar difficulty, Steve has onsighted more than 100 routes graded 8a or harder within 12 months, climbed over 500 sport routes at 8a and above, has onsighted 8b+, established a ground-up deep water solo 8b+, climbed 8c+ very fast and climbed E9 trad. Although he wouldn't admit it, he is up there with the best rock climbers in the world. What does it all take?
"Commitment, above all motivation, a little bit of luck and genetics," said McClure.
Check out the Visual for an explosive shot of Steve on the new Malham route.
Brian Antheunisse taking center stage at TMG. Photo: David Chancellor/ davidchancellor.com
Teva Mountain Games
Daniel Woods did it again as he seized the day and took 1st place in the bouldering competition for the third year in a row at the Teva Mountain Games, in Vail, CO. Alex Puccio won her second title in a row. Woods and Puccio both took home $2,500 for their victories.
Except for the small burst of hail the TMG went off without a hitch. The bouldering problems were powerful, technical, and exciting to watch. Charles Fryberger (aka Underground Chuck) showed amazing skill and proved to the crowd that he can do a lot more than just spin records. He ended up taking fourth place in the bouldering competition.
Chris Sharma and Angie Payne were awarded the Everest Award on Friday night for their sport climbing and bouldering accomplishments.
On Saturday evening Urban Climber and Climbing Magazine put together an event at Moe’s BBQ to benefit the Access Fund. There were free drink, free food, and free tunes by Strung Out. David Chancellor even showed off his circus skills and balanced a stool on his chin. By night’s end, the Access Fund brought in over 50 new members.
The climbing portion of TMG was wrapped up on Sunday with a speed bouldering competition. Rachael Blievernicht took first place in the female division and Ryan Roden took first in the male division.
Matt Birch taking on the hardest SoCal has to offer. Photo: Rob Miramontes/ robertmiramontes.com
Matt Birch taking on the hardest SoCal has to offer. Photo: Rob Miramontes/ robertmiramontes.com
Matt Birch sends huge in SoCal!
This Spring Matt Birch made a voyage all the way from the UK to come climb some of the best hidden granite in SoCal, at the Palm Springs Tramway. Robert Miramontes and Rob Mulligan showed Matt the standing projects, hoping he would be able to shed some light for the locals. Matt picked the crown jewel, a 45 degree overhanging, (barely) tips crack to a perfect crimp in the middle, ending in your typical Southern California top out, slopers.
“It is harder than Slashface and Nagual in Hueco (both V13). As hard, more physical and very different than the Swarm in Bishop (V14)," said Birch.
The end result? Matt’s FA of Somewhere in Time, and the establishment of Southern California’s hardest boulder problem. You can read more about the Tramway and Matt’s ascent in an upcoming article about Tramway this fall.
Access Fund Think Big
Tipping Point: the dramatic moment when something unique becomes common. A sudden spontaneous and mysterious leap of consciousness achieved when a “critical mass” is reached.
Every action we do (or don’t do) contributes to the tipping point of conservation. How, you ask? When we are at the crags and wipe off our tick marks, pick up the stray wrapper and throw it in our pack, go five steps “out of our way” to stay on the established trail, or keep Fido by our side, we are all contributing to the critical mass of conservation.
The Access Fund’s mission is keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment. For us climbing and the environment are synonymous. Can picking up a wrapper make a difference? As stewards of the climbing environment, every single one of our individual actions toward this end are part of a greater whole.
That means that every single action has an effect, either positive or negative. Strive to climb invisibly, know the local low down of where you’re climbing so you know if what you’re climbing and doing are legit, and speak up/speak out when the actions of others compromise our access or the environment.
Headz, Reality distorted by Jason Kehl, Godzilla? 300? Land of the Lost? Fantasy Island, ladies? Nope. It’s just Ivan Greene getting gnawed apart by a prehistoric plastic toy.
Headz, Reality distorted by Jason Kehl, Godzilla? 300? Land of the Lost? Fantasy Island, ladies? Nope. It’s just Ivan Greene getting gnawed apart by a prehistoric plastic toy.
None of us want the ice in Montana to disappear or the rock in Atlanta to be paved over. We know climbing has impact but it also has a very positive effect on us as humans and is a necessary part of our being. The crux is knowing how to preserve the opportunities we love for those who have not yet heeded the call or are not yet born. We all help keep climbing areas open and conserve the climbing environment. Thanks for doing your part, big and small, because small is big.
Josh Lowell hangs around to capture Chris Sharma in action. Mallorca,Spain. Photo: Corey Rich/ coreyrich.com
Josh Lowell hangs around to capture Chris Sharma in action. Mallorca,Spain. Photo: Corey Rich/ coreyrich.com
Eye Candy: Reel Rock Film Tour
This fall, the second annual Reel Rock Film Tour brings the hottest climbing action of the year to a big screen near you. With over 50 shows in September and October, Reel Rock promises to entertain, inspire, and unite local climbing communities across the US and Canada.
The featured film, KING LINES, profiles Chris Sharma's search for the planet's greatest climbs. Groundbreaking producers Josh Lowell of Big UP Productions and Peter Mortimer of Sender Films, have teamed up to push climbing films to a new dimension. Filmed on location in Spain, France, California, Venezuela, Greece, Utah, Nevada, and Mallorca, King Lines documents Sharma's outrageous ascents and fascinating lifestyle.
Stay tuned to UC Mag for for an exclusive behind-the-scenes look at the making of King Lines.
WORDS & INTERVIEW BY DAVID WETMORE // PHOTOS COURTESY LUZ MOB
The word “diverse” comes to mind, but its capacity to define is not nearly large enough to encapsulate the album’s seemingly infinite range of sound. Impossible. Luz Interpretations is as inconceivable as it is indefinable, but it is this musical ambiguity that represents its most powerful allure. From the streets of San Fran, to the towering Rockies, and all the way down to the grind in Brooklyn, Luz Interpretations’ eclectic range and vast variation of musical genre is flawlessly merged together to form a unique sound that is incomparable to other compilations. This recently released album is an elaborate mixing pot of raw melody, coolly crossing genres of cumbia and bachata with dub and reggae. If you like a bit of jazz and soul; it’s softly lingering in the mix as well.
The common element shared by the artists on this album may be the absence of a predictable mold that can comfortably classify them within black and white divisions. However, the actual producer behind it all is Luz Mob himself (a nickname he picked up back in the day while throwing down in San Fran), responsible for choosing particular musicians, producing, and arranging the songs. Similar to the diverse nature of his productions, Luz spent his younger years moving from San Francisco to Colorado to New York, “bagging fourteeners in Colorado” and “bombing bus yards in San Fran”. This guy does it all. But who wants to hear this from me, when you can hear it from the man himself.
What has inspired this type of musical interpretation? Origin of genre?
Growing up in Colorado, NYC, and SF, I was always exposed to a wide range of great music. Each place has heavy Latin communities, and their influence is obvious in my music. Roots, Dub, and Dancehall were also on heavy rotation throughout my entire life, and have had a profound effect on how I hear and make music. But it doesn’t stop there... I am also an avid fan of Jazz, Soul, Funk, R&B, Classical, Rock, Metal, Gypsy, African, Hip Hop, and so on. On top of growing up in communities that played these musics daily, I was fortunate enough to have access to my Dad’s record collection that included a good representation from all of these areas. And when I bought my first sampler... Forget about it!
How would you classify this album, Luz Interpretations?
A contemporary collection of unpredictable sounds from around the world, born out of the marriage of electronic and acoustic instrumentation.
What kind of compilation can we expect from you in the future?
CrystalTop Music has a compilation available right now that features an incredible array of talented musicians who are all actively performing in the NY area. It is called “CrystalTop Music Presents” and it can be purchased online or at a store near you. We are also working on a remix album of “Luz Interpretations” featuring some heavyweight producers from coast to coast. You will hear more on that soon.
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