Escalade Magazine, a premier French climbing publication, has just launched its first special photo edition. This issue celebrates the work of ten climbing photographers from around the world; eight pages worth of photos and a short interview (in both English and French) are devoted to each photographer. The photographers featured are: Andrew Burr, Keith Ladzkinski, Aaron Black, Benoit Robitaille, Neil Monteith, Peter Mathis, Jorg Zeidelhack, Eric Demay, Yann Corby and Stefan Denys.
Conserving Access and The Environment in Your Backyard: A message from the Access Fund
Most of the mainstream bouldering areas in our country are not the isolated pristine backcountry settings we salivate over in the magazines; they are merely the closest outdoor climbing opportunities to downtown Anywhere, USA. They serve as the must-only-climb-rock-snobs' alternative to the indoor gym, the bare-chested lame date's venue to show off, and the easiest transition for yesterday's indoor climbing prodigy to become tomorrow's sponsored athlete.
Valued for proximity and convenience, these urban-fringe destinations have become a significant part of our day-to-day climbing lifestyles. These areas are far too vulnerable to the impacts of erosion, networks of spider trails, trampling of vegetation, and heavy chalk build-up, all of which are caused by the crowds of climbers.
"You wanna talk about an area getting trampled?" spouts Access Fund Ambassador Joe Kinder, as he talks about watching one of his choice bouldering destinations change from "...a totally pristine, alpine ecosystem of boulders to an area that looks more like Flagstaff Mountain in Boulder. When someplace is deemed "the shizz" mad people make the venture to feel that bliss... and climb. I'm not going to point a finger. It's every person going to the boulders. The terrain's depletion is a move in the wrong direction; an area that majestic does not need to have an access problem."
So how do climbers own up to these areas and keep them free from access issues? How do we mitigate the impact caused by our own high-volume use?
Community, relationships, and stewardship
"Strength in community" is the fundamental principle behind the actions and attitudes of a strong climbing front. We've got to work together if we're going to be influential. Conserving our climbing environment needs to be on everyone's radar. As a community we have the people power to make improvements through stewardship that keeps the boulders pristine and earn us respect from land managers. Establishing a relationship with the land managers as a community will help us to be taken more seriously than if we come across as a disorderly gang of padpeople. I'm not saying you've got to be best friends with them, just ask permission to climb and invite their participation in stewardship projects proposed by the climbing community. They'd be psyched that you want to conserve the area!
"Many hands make light work," and by empowering a group of climbers to install a water bar, retaining wall, or a stone stair set you can dramatically slow further erosion in a half day's effort. Work together to organize a clean-up and to remove any litter that depreciates the value of your bouldering area. Just being aware of climbers' impacts and doing your part to reduce them goes a long way when each individual shares the attitude.
Joe goes on, "I'm not gonna preach, but it's up to each of us to keep these areas natural...its up to climbers. Watch where you put pads, grab tape debris, clean up chalk spills, do the dishes, drive me to the gym and then pick me up, brush your teeth...and take care of your areas..."
Want to know how to go about organizing your community? Don't have the money to buy materials for a project? Check out www.boulderproject.org to get schooled on how climbers, the environment, and access are all connected. For tips on organizing a stewardship event, or to apply for a grant to fund your project, visit www.accessfund.org
Urban Climber Magazine is Green For Good!
We have officially gone green for good! On January 4th, 2007 UC announced a sponsorship with prAna that will allow the environmentally friendly move to 100% recycled paper from here on in. The power of the initiative between UC and prAna was fully realized after you, our readers, came back with overwhelmingly positive responses to our first recycled issue, #13. Thanks everyone!
UC Lookin’Sharp
At the end of 2006, Urban Climber Magazine was one of only two companies chosen to receive the Access Fund's Sharp End Award. The award is given to individuals and businesses for their commitment, leadership, and activism in preserving climbing access and the climbing environment. All of us at Urban Climber wholeheartedly support the tremendous efforts of the Access Fund and are honored to accept this award.
Climbing Rocks Winner
Urban Climber,
Climbing Rocks because you never know when your next time out to your local crag may be your last. It's true. About 2 months ago I was in the ER because I suddenly could not stand or walk. Turns out, I was diagnosed with a rare neurological disorder that paralyzes you (acute inflammatory demylenizing polyneuropathy). Thankfully I'm recovering and am focused on climbing again soon.
Your magazine rocks! It's the only thing I read in the hospital. Jeff "Chunky" Zschunke - Via-email
Hey Jeff,
It's Ivan from Khadejha. I was moved when I heard your story. Though I don't have a neurological situation like yours, I do know a lot about being severely injured and not know if I was going to climb again...and the journey of recovery.
And I also know what goes on inside my head and heart...I wish you all the courage and strength of a warrior in your recovery!
Ok bro... All the best. I am honored to hook ya up with some Khadejha gear.
Enjoy,
Ivan Greene at Khadejha
* Tell us why Climbing Rocks and you just might find yourself hooked up with Khadejha shwag! Send it over to 411@urbanclimbermag.com and write "Climbing Rocks!" in the header
Correction In Jody Hansen's "Drive" profile on page 40 of issue #14 our reported grades of Sunspot, Kind Traverse and Redrum SDS were incorrect. Sunspot and Kind Traverse were reported as V10 when in fact they both warrant grades of V11. Redrum SDS was reported as V9, but is given the grade V10. Sorry Jody!
Wooster On Spring: A Final Tribute To The Mecca of Street Art Photos: Joe Iurato
It's 10:00 AM, the beginning of another day of closing this issue, and the office is drowning in an unsettling silence - almost as if its employees were mourning. Deadline is around the corner, but no one can manage to work. Looming above our heads and casting shadows upon our motivation and work ethic was 11 Spring Street.
Just blocks from our west village office is a building marked 11 Spring Street, a NoLita landmark who's exterior has been the canvas for thousands of street artists over the past few decades. Some of the biggest names in street art simply left their marks while passing through New York, some earned their notoriety on its bricks while others chose it as the place to propose marriage.
11 Spring was the CBGB for street art, and just like the beloved punk venue, 11 Spring was about to bid farewell. The ever-changing façade of the building would soon become part of the camouflage that is lower Manhattan as its structure would be transformed into condos.
In the office, on every computer, hiding beneath the chaos of emails, photos, and articles is always The Wooster Collective. The Wooster Collective is a website, founded in 2001, that celebrates the "ephemeral art placed on streets in cities around the world." Constantly washed over by new works from some of the world's most famous street artists - including Blek Le Rat, Banksy, and Shepard Fairey - as well as the unknown artists of every city, The Wooster Collective - based out of SoHo in New York City - seeks to document and support this ever-changing genre of art as it is adapted to every urban environment in the world.
It was decided by the founders of The Wooster Collective, Marc and Sara Schiller, and the new owners of 11 Spring Street, Caroline Cummings and Bill Elias, that the building couldn't undergo renovations without first being recognized for its history and importance within the art community. They agreed that the most obvious and effective tribute to the building would be to bring the world's representatives of street art together to create original pieces in its forgotten interior. Throughout seven weeks, over fifty street artists - some from as close as down the street, others from as far as islands off the coast of Africa -installed their work on the five floors of 11 Spring, only for it to exist for three days before being covered by construction materials, forever sealing it within the building's history.
Well, it's day 1 of the 3 day event and the doors would open in an hour. In the stale, stagnant air of the office it only takes a whisper of the words "Wooster On Spring" to shatter the silence and convince us to play hooky so we could experience the fleeting exhibit. We're out, cameras in hand, butterflies in our bellies and, of course, a few cans of spray paint in our bags as we set off to be part of this inspiring and historical event. UC
Shpongle Nothing Lasts... But Nothing Is Lost The gods of Psychedelic and Goa Trance, Simon Posford and Raja Ram, have released the third and final installment of their side project, Shpongle. Nothing Lasts... But Nothing Is Lost is essentially a fusion of Shpongle's culturally influenced album, Tales of the Inexpressible, and the duo's darker Downtempo and Ambient album, Are You Shpongled?. Posford and Raja Ram seek to define the relationship between reality and the dream world throughout this epic journey of an album; through its twenty tracks, the album incorporates innumerable styles of indigenous music from many distant nations. These influences include: Dub, Batucada, Celtic, Flamenco, and a world's worth of diverse vocals. Sharply contrasting stereotypical trance, Nothing Lasts is an album that transcends categorization and serves more as a guide through exploration - of both the physical and dream worlds - then as a mere dance album. Few albums successfully rival this psytrance release in its perfection as a soundtrack for exploration of the frontier.
Highlights:
Levitation Nation
Periscopes of Consciousness
Shnitzled in the Negev
Sigur Ros Takk The Icelandic Post-Rock quartet has released yet another epic masterpiece, this time creating timeless music that flawlessly and beautifully reflects the emotions that each of us have experienced while watching the sun set beyond endless expanses of rock, or while comfortably lost in the sequence of a route. The band allows the listener to relive these emotions and experiences, as it combines wailing, orchestrated strings and brass, comforting foreign vocals, and organic rises and falls. Buried deeply within these breathtaking crescendos is sheer wonder and awesomeness. Constantly exemplifying contentment and wonder, and filled with thoughts of embracing the inevitable, the band's lyrics supported by delicate vocals help to redefine a group that was once solely known for its instrumentals (until this album, the group chose to only write lyrics in a non-existent language). So when the climbing day ends and your view of the mountains fades into the night, let Takk envelop you in its sheer beauty and transport you to a place that you thought could only be found in nature.
Röyksopp The Understanding With the release of The Understanding, the Norwegian electropop duo Röyksopp boldly mixes highly structured synth beats with a newfound emphasis on vocals in a melting pot of eclectic genres. Instead of merely growing complacent with their popular style that lent itself to fame on their last album, Melody AM, Röyksopp ventured further into the electronica frontier and began to experiment with a more mature, vocal-based sound. Female voices beautifully offset the mechanical world of electronica, bringing human emotion and intimacy into the scene. Gently complementing the vocal-based tracks are heavily orchestrated instrumentals splitting at the seams due to heavy percussion and explosive climaxes. Whether it is engulfing your car during an early dawn trip to the crag, or radiating throughout gym during a late night session, The Understanding will carry you comfortably into what lays ahead.
Highlights:
Only This Moment
Alpha Male; Triumphant
Yo La Tengo I'm Not Afraid of You and I Will Beat Your Ass As portrayed by the title of their latest album, Yo La Tengo is continuing to - after over twenty years of playing - create timeless and unfettered music, free from the evolution of fads and genres - free from the judgment of the mainstream. This has ultimately allowed them to release an album that lightheartedly celebrates the existence of music as a whole, rather than focus on a specific genre. Rather than being constrained to a specific audience or environment, I'm Not Afraid of You will appeal to anyone who appreciates music. The only way to truly review this album would be to consider each song individually, as if each was from a separate album, with a unique theme and genre. With components ranging from Noise Rock to soulful ballads, this seemingly random compilation of styles is surprisingly cohesive and easy to listen to. This album is a pure and raw portrayal of this Hoboken, NJ trio's relentless passion for exploring the bounds of music. Take it or leave it - the band doesn't care if you enjoy their music or not; but recognize one thing: Very few other bands have managed to show their love for music like Yo La Tengo.
Highlights: Pass The Hatchet, I Think
I'm Goodkind
I Feel Like Going Home
The Story of Yo La Tango
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