UrbanClimber Magazine

411 - #14 > DECEMBER 2006/JANUARY 2007

Stuff we just couldn’t make up

Back from The North Face Excursion

How does one describe perhaps the single greatest event of his lifetime?  I was incredibly stoked to win anything from The North Face, but to win a climbing trip for two anywhere in the lower forty-eight and a spot in a North Face ad was pretty much unbelievable. As a matter of fact, my friend Wes, my friend I chose to take along, didn't believe I had won for two weeks after I had told him.  I live north of Atlanta in Dawsonville, GA, and the only decent climbing nearby is a boulder field called Boatrock.  To climb routes we have to drive at least two or three hours, so when the opportunity arose to go as far away as I wanted, I got as far from Georgia as possible -Yosemite.  

We decided Tuolumne Meadows would be the ideal location, because it would offer us the chance to boulder and climb our first multi-pitch routes. Hooked up with our North Face equipment, from sleeping bags to packs, we headed for the Meadow, whose extreme heat during the day and chill during dawn and night made the bouldering amazing early and late and the routes ideal during the middle of the day.  But hands down, the coolest part of the trip was that we would be climbing with pros Lisa Rands, Cedar Wright, and Renan Ozturk. At first we were a bit apprehensive about climbing with the pros, whom we thought would be buried in their egos and agendas, but nothing could've been further from the truth.  The professionally athletes seemed to be stoked on how enthusiastic we were about climbing, and their constant excitement fed our confidence and exhilaration. We had innumerable opportunities lying ahead of us, and it was kind of funny to hear the pros as us what we wanted to try. 

We were pretty surprised that when we decided to go work on a boulder problem while the North Face team and the pro climbers went to prepare for a photo shoot, Lisa Rands chose to come with us. But that just shows how relaxed and cool she was. So there we are with one of the best boulderers in the world, just hanging out and climbing. 

The next day we sent our first real multi pitch route, the West Crack. We did it in teams; Wes climbed with Renan while I climbed with Cedar.  Cedar managed to run out a six-pitch climb into something like three pitches and we free scrambled the last fifty feet or so. We got a good six hundred feet or so off the deck and the landscape was incredible.  We were just surrounded by these massive granite domes in all directions, and to the southwest sat Half Dome.  You can't really ask for a better setting. 

This trip seriously changed my life. Everyone there was so awesome. Watching Cedar and Renan climb Death Crack before breakfast, and watching Lisa make short work of every sick boulder problem in sight were inspiring moments to say the least. I will forever look up to these people and hold them in high regard for their personal skill as well as just being cool as hell.  They are all honorary Gnardogs in my book. I learned that you get out of climbing what you put into it.  I also confirmed my suspicions that

Yosemite might be the coolest place on Earth.

-Jason Plemmons, The North Face Excursion winner

 

Under The Gun
RADAR.NET

With Radar.net you no longer have to be in the comfort of your room, ages after your latest sends, to show friends photos from your road trip or your first ascents. Radar.net allows you to use your camera phone to take pictures at the crag and send them to the website where they will instantly be posted for your friends to view. Unlike the open public photo sharing websites, Radar.net focuses on connecting select groups of friends through photo- documentation of their lives. Urban Climber has partnered with Radar to create another medium through which climbers can keep their community updated on the exciting changes that occur every day in the climbing world. Your experiences no longer have to be mere stories for your friends; by joining Radar you're given the chance to share your experiences with the climbing community as soon as they happen.

Check out Coin to see how staying under the gun can win you a Metolius crashpad.

 

CLIMBING ROCKS

Of course it does - But we want to hear "why" from you.  Send us a few sentences that'll convince even the most diehard indoor enthusiast to get off the couch and go outside to pull down, and you could win a nice little package from Khadejha. 

Send it over to 411@urbanclimbermag.com and write "Climbing Rocks" in the subject line.

 

Nau, Inc.

With the release of its spring collection, Nau Inc, a new outdoor apparel manufacturer from Portland, OR, will blend sustainability, performance and style in clothing that ranges from more technical outdoor shells to lifestyle/street wear designed for the multi-dimensional outdoor athlete. As part of Nau's effort to be a catalyst for change, its clothing is made of sustainable materials like PLA (poly-lactic acid), biopolymer and organic cotton. In addition, they are giving customers the opportunity to direct five percent of every sale to an environmental, social or humanitarian organization of their choosing. Nau products will be available online starting this January, and in the early months of 2007, the first four retail stores will open, likely in Portland, Seattle, the Bay area and Chicago. Ian Yolles, vice president of marketing at Nau, believes that businesses have far more responsibility than they choose to accept. He believes that "by demonstrating the business viability of implementing enhanced environmental and social responsibilities, [Nau] can show other businesses that doing the right thing is good business.

For more information, or to check out Nau's blog, the "Thought Kitchen, visit: www.nau.com.

 

EVENTS

Urban Climber Magazine is proud to sponsor all climbing events. Here are a few of the gyms whose comps we've sponsored this season.

Sanctuary Rock Gym
Boston Rock Gym
Metro Rock
Summit Climbing Gym
Twisters Rock Gym
Sante Fe Climbing Gym
Stone Gardens
Extra Vertical
The Spot Bouldering Gym
The Front SLC
Rock Ventures 
Island Rock Gym  
Red Barn @ RIT 
ClimbX 
Red Rock Climbing Center
Nampa Rec Ctr Climbing Wall
Boulderdash Indoor Rock Climbing
Upper Limits Rock Climbing Gym

To submit your comp for sponsorshop go to www.urbanclimbermag.com/events

 

UCTV LEADER BOARD

Evilution by Mike Call
The Reactions by Fragllo
FUSE trailer by Joe Iurato
Shangri by Joe Iurato
An Englishman in New York by Joe Iurato
I Remember When by Parlor Trick
Big Crimpin Boat Rock by Avo
Specimen trailer by Chuck Fryberger
Misugaki by DrTopo
SoulCal by Paul Dusatko

Taken from: www.urbanclimbermag.tv

 

NUMBERS

804,704: The number of minutes of videos viewed on ucmag.tv
0: The number of minutes dedicated to climbing on ESPN

 

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EYE CANDY: Memento: A boulder life line
A FILM BY GERALD SALMINA
REVIEWED BY NOAH CHILTON

In collaboration with the Austrian bouldering titan Bernd Zangerl, Austrian filmmaker Gerald Salmina has released a bouldering film that follows Zangerl through his philosophies of climbing and his relationships with people and nature as he boulders in some of the world's most beautiful areas. Ultimately culminating with the first ascent of Zangerl's project of many years, Memento, the film is an introspective look at the struggles as well as the momentous occasions of climbing, and how they truly reflect the occurrences and relationships of life itself. As a film that isn't drowned in the names and grades of problems, Memento does not strictly appeal to the climbing community. The beauty of Ticino, Magic Wood, and the Silvretta Mountains, combined with narration by Zangerl and a laid back, but upbeat soundtrack allow the viewer, whether a climber or not, to escape the stresses of every day and reflect upon the relationships and journeys of his own personal life.

Salmina essentially reshapes the concept of being a viewer. Through unique techniques, Salmina has developed a concrete division between climbing alone and climbing with a group. By doing so he has created a film that effectively portrays two major relationships: one being the relationship between the narrator and nature, the other being between narrator and people. These relationships are best exemplified by the different roles the viewer takes on. For instance, in the scenes in which it is solely Bernd Zangerl on the rock, Salmina implements cranes to remove the viewer from the static and grounded human angle; the fluid camera movements allow the film to transform the spectator into a presence not bound by physical laws, ultimately leaving Zangerl as the only human among the boulders.

Salmina heavily contrasts the sinuous shots of Zangerl alone with very static shots when he is climbing with a group. Memento's bouldering sequences that involve a group of climbers are usually shot from below the climber and the camera tends to stay anchored to a single spot. While the beauty of the climbs and the environment is not compromised in these shots, it is not the focal point of them; the relationships constantly investigated throughout the film are balanced as these very human perspectives help to develop a closer relationship with the climber.

While Zangerl's reflections on bouldering and life lay at the core of the film, Memento's organization, pace, and aesthetics create an open- ended film with a wide and timeless appeal. Whether you are looking for a refreshing and reflective view of our sport and lifestyle, or you're just looking for footage of one of the world's best boulderers climbing in coveted areas, Memento serves to accommodate everyone. www.mementoberndzangerl.com

 

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EAR CANDY: Mid August Night
INTERVIEWED BY JASON KEHL/PHOTOS BY DAVE CHANCELLOR/CD ART BY MARC RUSSO

Mid August Night hails from Goreville, Illinois, a small town thirty minutes southeast of Carbondale.  Since their first show in April of 2005 the band's been kickin' ass with a slew of great material and tight live performances. Their interesting brand of acoustic based rock and roll is infectious with its catchy guitar riffs and three part vocals. Jason Kehl recently had the opportunity to sit down and interview the Mid August Night boys.

Jason Kehl: What kind of music do you play?

Mid August Night: Lets see... I believe we're in the genre of kick ass with a hint of acoustic flavor.

JK: Name some of your influences.

MAN: We enjoy nothing more than jamming to the sounds of bands such as The Dave Mathews Band, The Early November, Dashboard Confessional, Red Hot Chili Peppers, and other things of that nature.

JK: So you're from Goreville, Illinois. Are any of you a part of the gang of kids who used to scramble around Jackson Falls in their tighty whiteys?

MAN: HaHa! No, that was some of our buddies but we do get out climbing on occasion.  Also, we do interact a lot with climbers. After all, our practices are held at the So Ill shop and home gym.

JK: Do you think that your passion for music is similar to that of the passion to climb?

MAN: Like climbing, the feeling of playing each new venue and meeting awesome new people is similar to that of say, finding a new bouldering area and developing it with friends. We travel in our 87 Toyota van across country to pursue our passion just like climbers do.

JK: What gets you more girls, climbing or music?

MAN: Looking amazing while rocking out hard on stage does not hurt your chances.

JK: If you were held at gunpoint and had to sing one song, what would it be?

MAN: A killer version of "Come on Eileen".


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JK: If you light a candle and listen to your album backwards, what do you think that it says?

MAN: "THE DEVIL EATS YOUR CHLDREN"

JK: I've checked out your Myspace page.  This is where all the girls are!  Do you think that Myspace and the "Interweb" in general have helped your music grow?

MAN: Any free marketing tool that reaches thousands of Americans is definitely going to help the cause.  We can't even begin to explain to you how many great people we've met over the Internet that we wouldn't have otherwise.

JK:Do you have any upcoming shows that you are excited about?

MAN: We're super stoked about a show coming up on New Years Eve at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. We love playing for climbers. We've played at Steve Allen's gym in Indianapolis and at the So Ill Showdown last year as well.

JK: One last question, what would your dream venue be?

MAN: First off, it would be located on the moon; Kiss, a reincarnated Jerry Garcia, and Ralph Macchio from the Karate Kid, would all be our biggest fans. When we are finished playing our set, we would have giant fountains of beer to cool off in.  If that doesn't work out, Red Rocks will do.

JK: Any last words?

MAN: We would just like to thank Dave Chancellor at So ILL for taking all of our photos, Marc Russo from Magnaverse.com for the rad cd art, and you, Jason, for taking the time to sit down with us.

Band Contact Info:
www.midaugustnight.com
www.myspace.com/midaugustnight
e-mail: midaugustnight@hotmail.com
Tel: 618 751 2145

 
 

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