UrbanClimber Magazine

411 - #12 > AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2006


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Angie Payne cranks down while an ice cold four-story keg and thousands of spectators look on

Teva Mountain Games
Words and Photo By Brian Solano

The Teva Mountain Games put climbing center stage in Vail, Colorado. On the first weekend of June, America's top competitors duked it out in the Bouldering, Speed Bouldering, and Freestyle Dyno disciplines for a $16,000 prize purse. The competition not only tested the climbers' abilities, but also put on a show that was sure to catch the eye of anyone passing by. Thousands of spectators gathered to watch the climbing event, as well as trail running, kayaking, mountain biking, and other outdoor adventure sports. For more info, check out www.TevamountainGames.com

Bouldering
Men
1. Daniel Woods
2. Paul Robinson
3. Nicholas Sherman
Women
1. Alex Puccio
2. Angie Payne
3. Portia Menlove

Speed Bouldering
Men

1. Rob D'anastasio
2. Sean Drolet
3. Daniel Woods
Women
1. Alex Puccio
2. Paige Claassen
3. Kasia Pietras

Freestyle Dyno
Men
1. Mike Auldridge
2. Ethan Pringle
3. Alex DiFelice
Women
1. Kasia Pietras
2. Natasha Barnes
3. Alex Puccio


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Photo: Susan Lehrer, Mohonk Preserve

...until we meet again.
Bob Fisher, trailhead assistant with the Mohonk Preserve, passed away this January. Many climbers at the Gunks knew Bob as the friendly man who always took the time for conversation and humor. Bob injected his love of the outdoors and his enjoyment of people into the lives of climbers and hikers alike. Though not a climber himself, he was a vital part of the experience of those who knew him - and all those who knew him will miss him.
-M. Salzman

Keeping it infinite
It's a cool dark night in Yosemite's Camp 4 and the trees continue to sprinkle us with leftovers from the evening's passing thunderstorm. Our struggling campfire has drawn from its shadows a surly and soggy crew of climbers, equally saturated by an evening of King Cobra tall cans. Struggling to communicate, with English as a second language for many, conversation gives way to a cycle of laughter and pantomimed gestures. The revelry builds, and as our voices come together and our tongues fumble through the sounds of yet another countryman's drinking song, I appreciate how internationally diverse the climbing community truly is, and wonder how many other climber camps around the world are experiencing a similar cultural hodgepodge.

Climbing is everywhere, and although each area may have evolved from the vision and drive of a small core of local climbers with their own standard of ethics, these areas have since become known and sought out by an international community of climbers. Climbing has become an impetus for international travel, and climbers have become a well-traveled and well-cultured demographic. The basecamp, campground, or coffee shop of any well-known climbing destination is often times a culturally eclectic frontispiece to a story of international roadtrips, long-sought-after climbing experiences, and history making ascents.

And unlike the fanny-pack toting, "best cruise ever" boasting, take-a-photo-and-keep-going tourists who claim to have tasted the culture of a country by choking down their "Roy-al with cheese", climbers get imbedded enough to truly taste the culture of an area in the generously offered traditional meal of a mountain village or open-armed kitchen of a gregarious local climber. Climbing brings you to places and connects you with people on a level unreachable by the average tourist and has the power to transform even the most under-funded international climbing endeavor into a trip rich in climbing and culture.

Local climbers know best, and the best way to experience local climbing culture and build lasting relationships is by listening, learning, and climbing in the style of the area. When in Britain, headpoint; when in Rifle, project; when in Nepal, Ka Gar Nay; "when in Rome...". In the end, it's the mutual respect between guest and host that garners the greatest appreciation. If you stay at their house, you clean up after yourself, and when you climb at their crag, you should do the same. Although style and ethics may vary around the world, respecting another climber's crag should always be a universal practice.

American climbers, companies, and organizations have set the precedent on stewardship initiatives at climbing destinations around the world and leads by example in terms of climbing management and policy. The Access Fund is an American organization, supported by climbers, and takes a stand for climbers' justice on issues of climbing access and land management. With a long and successful history of keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment, the Access Fund has become the super model (sans the bikini and wind-blown hair) for climbing clubs and organizations around the world. The Climbers' Access Society of British Columbia organizes a dozen stewardship projects a year ala the Access Fund's Adopt-a-Crag program, eh. The British Mountaineering Club looks to the Access Fund as exemplar for organizing local climbing chaps, working with merry ol' land managers to craft management plans that maintain climbers' access, and influencing policies that support the interests of climbers. The Rio de Janeiro State Mountaineering Federation in Brazil has recently started an access arm and has tapped the Access Fund's extensive resources to help get them off the ground.

With bouldering on the rise, climbing continues to boom and crags everywhere are experiencing an increase in usage. Conserving our climbing areas and maintaining access to them must now more than ever be recognized and supported worldwide.

Reducing your impact and showing respect for your crag is a practice with universal application. Like a pebble in a pond, the wake of one action can create change across great distances. Whether at your backyard crag or your dream destination overseas, we can all make an effort to tread lightly and keep our climbing areas pristine and accessible for generations of globetrotters to come. Rock is finite, keep access infinite.
-The Access Fund (www.accessfund.org)

 

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Emily Harrington wouldn't miss her prime time show for anything

It's Showtime!
Words and Photo by Brian Solano

Emily Harrington, continuing to raise the bar, made what is believed to be the first female ascent of The 7pm Show (5.14a) in Rifle, Colorado. A notoriously powerful and bouldery route, The 7pm Show challenged the 19-year-old from Boulder, CO from the get go; "I don't think I could even put two moves together when I first tried it," Emily said. As she fought hard for the send, giving it almost 20 tries, something finally clicked; "It's the type of route that felt really hard and awkward at first, but began to flow better once my body learned the movements."

Emily will not be slowing down anytime soon. She has big plans for the remainder of the summer. "I'm leaving for Europe in two weeks to compete in a World Cup in Chamonix, and then Serre Chevalier," she says. And after returning from Europe, Harrington wants to pursue one of her long-term projects. She's considering Tom Foolery (5.14b, Rifle), Grand Old Opera (5.14b, Monastery) or Vogue (5.14b, Industrial Wall). "But," she says, "we'll just have to see how things play out."

The Reel Rock Film Tour
Big Up Productions and Sender Films have teamed up with Windstopper to produce the first major international climbing film tour. The Reel Rock Film Tour features two groundbreaking new climbing films by the top producers in the industry: Dosage Volume IV, by Josh Lowell, and First Ascent, by Peter Mortimer. Events are being held in September and October, 2006 at roughly 60 venues of all sizes across the United States, with additional tours in Canada and Europe. Reel Rock shows are high-energy events for climbers and mountain enthusiasts to get excited about, incorporating gear give-aways, athlete appearances and signings, fundraising for The Access Fund and local causes, and DVD sales. For more info visit: www.reelrocktour.com

 

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Donavon Frankenreiter: "Move By Yourself" / Lost Highway Records
Review by Noah Chilton

About
There are no consequences - If only that statement could be said about climbing. But it's the core of the summer and surf mentality, and is even further exemplified by Donavon Frankenreiter's sophomore album, "Move By Yourself." While first associated with pro surfing, Donovan, like his peer and Brushfire Records founder, Jack Johnson, approaches music as passionately as his surfing. Who better to release an album evoking relief, passion, and the summer lifestyle than a surfer who experiences it every day? While Donovan's self-titled debut, released on Brushfire Records, greatly reflected the Jack Johnson influence of laid back, relaxing acoustic blends, his love for funk and a more upbeat sound would remain untapped until "Move by Yourself", an exploration of his individual potential and personality. It's also his first release with Lost Highway Records.

Impressions
While different from his debut, this predominantly funk album compliments his first record in that it reflects the journey towards fulfilling a surfing lifestyle and the greater picture of a summer mentality. Donovan hasn't abandoned the smooth, carefree acoustic jams, but he has begun to integrate them into his personal style. His vocal quality has emerged from the shadows of dominant acoustic guitars on his previous release, and comfortably carries the listener through the album without a thought of consequences or stress. His light and carefree voice floats unobtrusively over the jazz piano, percussive, funky bass lines, prominent percussion, ripping guitar solos and complimenting female vocals. Veering away from evocative and controversial subjects, his lyrics refrain from taking the listener away from the meditative thoughts of summer surf.
As it washes over you like a comforting summer breeze your eyes will slowly lower and your shoulders will sink deeper into the passenger seat. Take his music as it hits you; it's not to be dissected in search of detailed layers and hidden ingredients of different genres. His music has the simple goal of immersing the listener in the solace and warmth of summer thoughts. It's an escape from the egocentric working world, and is embedded with a communal resonance that reminds the listener about passion, soul and the unadulterated emotions of summer. Exhale and roll down your windows, because "Move By Yourself" will take you for a ride, all summer long.

For more info visit www.losthighwayrecords.com

 

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Brain Candy: Escalade "Hors-Pistes" à Fontainebleau / By Jo & Francoise Montchaussè and Jacky Godoffe
Reviewed by Joe Iurato

Bleau's got problems. Thousands of 'em. So, you might want to bring a couple of guides with you. "Hors-Pistes" is a perfect companion to the forest's already standard Fontainebleau Climbs!, written by the same "deans" of sandstone paradise.
Although the first edition is still in print and continues to serve as the most extensive and thorough guide to Fontainebleau, "Hors-Pistes" simply offers another taste. The first guidebook was written with the Bleausard in mind; completely circuit oriented, with all grades presented, loose maps and chock full of info. "Hors-Pistes" targets problems ranging from 6a to 8b, takes you to them using pinpoint accurate maps and is written with the traveler in mind. It's loaded with entertaining historical facts and "Citizen Reminders", making sure we all do our part in preserving the bouldering world's favorite playground. The color-coded hierarchical treatment of the forest is also unique, splitting the areas not only into geographical zones and sectors but also into reference boulders (e.g. Fontainebleau > Bas-Cuvier > Aèrodynamite) making it extremely easy to find your way around. Diagrams summarizing the distribution and concentration of the boulders' difficulties in each area are also helpful when you and the crew are drinking caffè and eating croissants, deciding where the day's projects will be.
While the guidebook is not an update, it is the perfect extension of its brother. "Hors-Pistes" picks up where Fontainebleau Climbs first edition leaves off, takes a closer look at select problems, introduces new ones and completes the story of Bleau with accuracy and ease. It's the closest thing you'll have to carrying a Bleausard around in your crashpad. Own it.

Available in French and English at www.bleau.info and better climbing/outdoor stores worldwide.

 
 

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