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![]() Photo: Damon Corso
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THIRTEENTH HUECO ROCK RODEO
"Climbers were definitely nervous Friday night as a wicked storm full of lightning and thunder rolled through El Paso, skirting by Hueco Tanks. The following morning Hueco was bursting with life. Everything was a little bit greener and the climbers were psyched to see blue skies.
The Mutants attacked East Mt. during the first half of the day. 'Eckstein' (V10) turned out to be the warm-up for most the climbers, followed by many attempts on Jason Kehl's new line 'Eternal Darkness of the American Mind' (V12), which resulted in the 2nd, 3rd and 4th ascents to date by Sam Davis, Ethan Pringle and Matt Wilder (flash) respectively. As time dwindled on East, a few guys attempted 'Slashface' (V14). Hoping to seal victory with this climb, nobody succeeded.
As noon rolled around the mutants started towards North Mountain. The big number climbs to snag were on the Big time Boulder, which is home to 'Dark Age' (V11) and 'Barefoot on Sacred Ground' (V12). Both saw multiple ascents. While many attempts were made on 'Alma Blanca' (V13) no one was able pull through for the big score on north.
The day ended at the Rock Ranch where burgers and beer were served to all. The awards ceremony followed and finally the bonfire was lit to burn into the early morning hours. Matt Wilder came out as the victor, followed closely by Sam Davis and Garrett 'G-unit' Gregor. On the women's side Ana Burgos came through for the second year in a row as the winner, followed by Jodi Hansen in 2nd Place. Many thanks to Rob Rice of the Hueco Rock Ranch and everyone at the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department for helping organize and promote this event!" -Damon Corso
MY DATE WITH A TREE HUGGER
Dear Diary,
Tobe Sherrill called me today! You know I've been wishing for his invitation for so long now and today it finally came - he wants me to try rope-assisted tree climbing! I can't believe I'm going out on a limb with the founder of Sherrill Tree and Climbing Supply. First, instructors met me at the entrance to the Botanical Gardens, NY in a golf cart! Too cute! Then I got to meet Tobe himself. I told him I was so excited to em-bark on this adventure, but no monkey business. The guys brought me to this huge tree with a tarp lying underneath that was covered in climbing gear. I was going really going to climb this tree! One of Tobe's assistants sling-shot a weight with a cord attached into the tree. It flew through the canopy and fell to the ground, the cord lying across a high sturdy branch. Tobe then tied a rope to the end of the cord and pulled the weighted end until the rope laid across the branch. I stepped into a super-padded harness and then Tobe clipped me into the rope. He talked me through sliding the hitch up, stepping up high in the foot ascender, and sitting back. I couldn't be-leaf how close it came to ascending a rope on rock climbing! Thanks Tobe. I had an awesome time. Almost got rained on, though, wooden you know! Randi's diary, out.
For more info, check out www.wtsherrill.com.
COME DOWN TO THE RIVER AND PLAY
The fourth annual New River Rendezvous happening on May 19-21 is a fundraiser for the New River Alliance of Climbers and the Access Fund, and it's free to attend (though you will pay to participate in the climbing comps). You can expect all kinds of climbing comps, slacklining, a tasty Dessertapalooza, and lots of parties. Bring your Fat Bastard coz there might be Crash Pad Sumo Wrestling. For more info: www.waterstoneoutdoors.com
PODCLIMBER
If climbing hasn't already taken over enough of your body, introduce it to your ears with the Podclimber.com podcast. Every few days, you'll discover a new podcast featuring gear reviews, access issues, competition info, interviews, or other current climbing issues. Subscribe through itunes or download individual episodes directly from www.podclimber.com
TOP BRASS
Claudiu Vidulescu, Chris Wall, and Kynan Waggoner have been selected as the official US National Team Coaches. They'll accompany US National Team Head Coach Kyle Clinkscales and the US National Youth Teams to Austria for the Youth World Championship August 24-27. Congrats.
"W" SCALE ANNOUNCED!
George W. Bush, an avid climber of 31 years, recently implemented his own W-Scale in climbing. In his address to Congress, President Bush commented, "I came up with the idea of the W scale after my friend Chris Sharma opened what we believe is a V17 on our most secure enclosure to the White House." The President went on to say, "We all know that seventeen is a grade of unthinkable proportions according to the V-scale. And I surmise that an inhuman ability to climb, possessed by the wrong person, could prove threatening to our security. Since the V-scale is getting complicated in numbers, I decided it'd be easier if we started back at zero. The W-Scale will be a coding system used solely for strategic military purposes." What are your thoughts on the new grading system? Tell us at: aphool@urbanclimbermag.com
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MINIMIZE YOUR IMPACT TO MAXIMIZE YOUR ACCESS
Impact. As climbers, we generally think of impact as the abrupt crash onto our pad after another failed attempt, the highball dive that rolls an ankle, or the final blow of the ominous "dirt nap". What we often times neglect to consider is that impact also refers to the effect we have on our climbing environment, which directly affects the reputation of the climbing community and our subsequent access to those climbing areas. Climbers, the environment, and access are all interconnected, and we have the power to positively or negatively influence this cycle.
Be stealth. Climbers are judged by the impacts we leave in our wake; crowds, noise, pets, parked cars, litter, and chalk are all red flags for land managers. Be a mountain ninja and minimize the visual cues of your presence; climb in smaller posses, carpool, leave fido at home. Stay on trails to streamline our impact and reduce the indication of climber traffic.
Leave it green. Smothering plants with pads, unnecessary brushing of lichen from boulders, and damaging trees around landings are strong signs of climbers' presence. Terraced or comfortized landings help prevent erosion in highly trafficked areas, but aren't necessary on more obscure, less frequented areas. Do only what you gotta do to send, and let others have a similar experience.
Speak up, speak out. When the actions of others threaten access, let them know it's not cool to jeopardize everyone else's good time. Recognize mindful climbers, and clue other climbers in to the direct connection between their impacts and access.
OVERHEARD IN ISO AT THE YOUTH NATIONALS
"The best songs to listen to before you climb are 'Don't Give Up' by Eagle Eye Cherry and 'Hold On' by Good Charlotte. They get me so excited!" - Sasha DiGiulian, 4th place Female Youth B (age 14-15) finisher
"Jump! Dance! Keep moving!" - Coaches trying to keep their kids warmed up in the frigid waiting room
"Why is your hair blue? Its so... ew." - Anonymous Female Youth C (age 12-13) competitor to Brandon Schlueter, who finished 4th in Male Junior (age 18-19)
"Kill the ostrich!" Team Evolution coach Claudiu Vidulescu to 4th place Male Youth B (age 14-15) competitor Michael Arthur
"I didn't bring my headlamp!" - Worried climbers during the brief black-out on Saturday morning
Sauce source: 2006 Youth Bouldering Nationals, Boulder Rock Club, Boulder, CO
LINK-UPS
www.l-r-g.com
www.triple5soul.com
www.beautifuldecay.com
www.boulderingcomps.com
www.starkphotos.com
www.moonclimbing.co.uk
www.mountainproject.com
www.eslmusic.com
www.seclimbers.org
www.myspace.com/soill
www.matazone.co.uk
www.climbinginjuries.com
www.thieverycorporation.com
www.kokuahawaiifoundation.org
www.drtopo.com
www.zebloc.com
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Eye Candy: Soul Cal
www.integrity7.com
Video by Paul Dusatko
Reviewed by Andrew Zalewski
The Story:
Paul Dusatko and the Soul Cal Crew cruise around the golden state in a convertible Cadillac sending hard and high on both established lines and first ascents.
Areas covered:
Stoney Point, Santa Barbara, Rock Creek, Bishop, Black Mountain, Tramway, Pirate's Cove.
Summary:
Chris Lindner, one of the stars of the film, wrote the following on his website about Soul Cal: " ...it isn't a documentary, you won't find the Buddha inside, and you won't be disappointed. It is pure bouldering thick and through." Soul Cal is 60 minutes of awesome boulder problems done by some very talented climbers. Latch onto these silent bandeezee'd (their own term for the blue bandanas they wear in mock solidarity with the Crips) climbers and join in on the fun. The intent is clear: a dedicated crew of boulderers crushing on their amazing home turf, with an unrelenting pace of climbing and intense music.
Too much dialogue and banter can detract from the quality of a film, but I for one believe a little subtext goes along way. For example, Lindner does this really incredible problem called Belly Flop that (by two different haircuts) looks like he has been trying for a while. He does the problem in the film, but what is left unmentioned is that he had done this problem a few years ago and then some jerk broke off a hold with a shovel! This triumph over the unnamed d-bag is left unknown to the viewer, which is unfortunate since my impression of both the problem and of Chris' efforts changed dramatically once I learned the history of the problem.
Aesthetically, the film has a lot to offer: the involved camera angles, animations, thorough footage of the problems, and a focus on the quality of the problems and areas as well as the grade left me salivating for stone and checking my calendar and Orbitz. Beneath its blazing soundtrack, Soul Cal is a film about dedication, friendship, and love of stone.
Highlights:
*Natasha Barnes highballing exploits.
*Chris Lindner's persistence (and success!) on the first ascent of Belly Flop.
*Lots of bonus features including a short Hueco video.
*Original Soundtrack by DJ Revolution.
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Ear Candy: Thievery Corporation
The Cosmic Game
Review by Joe Iurato
About
Thievery Corporation's fourth album, The Cosmic Game, finds the duo of Rob Garza and Eric Hilton in their most expansive mood yet, as their latest sonic exploration blurs the boundaries between rock, breaks, future-bossa, dub, and other mind-altering sounds. Garza and Hilton have further crossed the boundaries with forays into rock and psychedelia that are fused with their signature dub and tripped-out sound with collaborations with rock legends Perry Farrell, The Flaming Lips and David Byrne.
Impression
Thievery Corporation continues to craft infectious hypno-erotic sounds from the world's instrumental roots on The Cosmic Game. The duo, formed in 1995 after meeting over drinks, jazz and dub at the now-infamous Eighteenth Street Lounge in D.C., has repeatedly slain me with grooves ever since. I didn't think it could get better than their previous releases, such as Mirror Conspiracy and The Richest Man in Babylon, until the track "Doors of Perception" shuffled into my mix, being the first song I'd hear from The Cosmic Game. The record is full of haunting melodies that range from the "sitar and tablas" inspired Indian ballads to 60's psychedelia and "spacy flanger funk" to "Jamerican" reggae and soul.
"Our deepest source of inspiration comes from our record collections. On this album we wanted to make songs that sounded like they may have been recorded by some of our favorite artists from the past. We also wanted to explore that sort of late 60's Moog-ed out, paisley-beat sort of thing as well," says Garza.
That said, The Cosmic Game delivers an aural aphrodisiac of trip-hop, dub, psychedelic rock and melodic bliss. A must for your collection.
For more info please visit the Eighteenth Street Lounge Music website at www.eslmusic.com