UrbanClimber Magazine

UCMAG 411 - #23 > JUNE/JULY 2008


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THE SIGN SAYS IT ALL. HUECO’S NOT THE MECCA IT ONCE WAS, BUT MANY CLIMBERS MAKE THE PILGRIMAGE ANYWAY, BRAVING TOUCH-AND-GO ACCESS. THE CLIMBERS OF HUECO TANKS COALITION HOPES TO IMPROVE THE SITUATION. PHOTO BY JUSTIN ROTH

HUECO-P CALL

The Climbers of Hueco Tanks Coalition (CHTC) is born

WORDS AND PHOTO BY JUSTIN ROTH 

It’s no secret that climbing access has been an issue at the Hueco Tanks State Historic Site, outside El Paso, Texas, for over two decades. The chronic climbing closures and limitations at Hueco can be attributed primarily to The Hueco Tanks State Historic site’s mandate, which is first and foremost to protect historic and cultural aspects of the area (specifically, Native American rock art and buried artifacts); as a result of this prioritizing of artifacts over recreation, boulders with significant value to climbers are being closed permanently and without warning. Now, spurred to action by one such event — the unexpected December, 2007 Mushroom Boulder closure — Hueco climbers have formed the Hueco Tanks Climbers Coalition, with help from Charlie Boas of the Access Fund and other concerned locals (including former members of the El Paso Climbers Club and local landowners).

The coalition’s mission statement, according to Rob Rice, owner of the Hueco Rock Ranch and guide service, is as follows: “The Climbers of Hueco Tanks Coalition is dedicated to preserving and enhancing rock climbing at Hueco Tanks Historic Site. We commit to working cooperatively with Texas Parks and Wildlife Department to proactively assist in managing climbing areas while conserving natural and historical resources.” Ideally, the CHTC would form a strong enough working relationship with the TPWD to stall and even reverse the rising tide of closures. Another function of the CHTC, suggests Rice, could be to bring in funds that help preserve and maintain Hueco on all levels. The CHTC could apply for grants from various foundations and corporations, allowing climbers play a more active financial role in the well being on the park. “I firmly believe that if we don’t get a club going — and get the relationship started where we become a respected and necessary user group — we’ll be left with a [short] list of things that are open as opposed a list of things that are closed,” says Rice, referencing the growing list of classic areas like the 45 Degree Wall, now verboten for climbers.

Wanda Olszewski, Superintendent of the Hueco Tanks State Historic Site, welcomes the new climber’s coalition, saying, “An org within the climbing community, and a local group in particular, would be very helpful for us in terms of including them in stakeholder meetings and assistance with work projects, and as far as getting the word out.” Having access to a single point of contact within the community is critical in Hueco. “Typically here, we’re walking a fine line between maintaining access to sites and protecting them,” says Olszewski — all the more reason to get the CHTC rolling. Plans are in place to have the CHTC operational by September 1, 2008, with regular meetings on the first Friday of each month. For more information and to get involved, email climbersofhuecotankscoalition@hotmail.com.

 

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AND WE’VE GOT OUR FIRST WOODY. WHEN ARON BACK ISN’T OUTSIDE DIALING IN AND BRUTALLY ASSAULTING HIS CONNECTICUT/NEW YORK/MASSACHUSETTS CLIMBING CIRCUITS, HE RETREATS WITH HIS DOG, MESA, TO HIS ATTIC FOR A LITTLE EXTRA CRIMP-PINCHY GOODNESS ON THE HOME FRONT. PHOTOS COURTESY THE BACKS.

This is simple. If you’re sessioning in the attic, dorm or garage these days, we want proof. Why? Because the heads over at So iLL (soillholds.com) asked to see who’s rocking the homemade jobs...and they want to give away some stuff. So send us pics of your home woody and tell us how badly you need some new plastic lovin’, and if we’re all on the same page you might win a dope set of grips straight from So ill.

First place scores a set of Organs

Second place scores a set of Gingivitis

Third place scores a set of Phalanges

Send your submission to: 411@urbanclimbermag.com


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THE SECRET TO SENDING? EAT MORE/REST LESS. JODY HANSEN ON RUMBLE IN THE JUNGLE (V12), HER HARDEST SEND TO DATE. PHOTO: MERRICK ALES

SCORE! Hansen racks up big points in Hueco

BY JUSTIN ROTH 

Before Jody Hansen began climbing in 1999, she was, in her own words, “pretty lazy.” She wasn’t big into any activities to speak of, save the piano and jumping horses, the only things she can think of that could have contributed to her abilities as a climber. This makes her recent winter in Hueco Tanks all the more impressive, with sends of two V12s (Rumble in the Jungle and Chbalanke — the latter gets V11/12) and handful of V11s and 10s. Jody, originally of Corvallis, Oregon, has entered the very highest echelons of hard-bouldering women, joining the likes of Lisa Rands (who sent her third V12, Bishop’s The Mandala, this past winter as well) and Josune Bereziartu (who sent a V12 called Solaris in Balzola, Spain, along with several hard 5.14s). When UC got a hold of Jody via phone, she was learning to surf in Santa Cruz, California. 

Urban Climber: How did you prepare for your season at Hueco?

Jody Hansen: I started slow cause I went to the Red River Gorge [the Kentucky sport and trad crag] beforehand. I don’t normally sport climb, so I was climbing 5.12 for a couple months. When I got to Hueco, I wasn’t super fit.

Then in the course of a week, I did a couple of V10s [Dead Serious, Mojo], following that up with Chbalanke. Later, I was working on The Flame (V12), but I got tired of it and went over and got on Rumble. I figured out some alternate Beta where there was a long stretch at the beginning — it felt like I needed a lot more time on it, so I ignored it, but went back on a hot day (‘cause it’s in a cave), and linked all the way to the end. After a few more sessions of failing off of the end, I sent.

UC: How did it feel breaking into realm of V12?

JH: I think I was ready to do a 12... it always seems like I have a year and a half of climbing badly and then have two spectacular months. [Actually], V12 has been a goal for quite a while. I tried Chabalanke a bunch last winter and didn’t do it — it was really frustrating for me because I had all the moves so wired. I would have my friends watch me, to see if they could identify what I was doing wrong.

UC: What do you think made the difference this season?

JH: It was really a surprise, it happened quickly, and it happened on its own. In the past, I’ve wanted it to happen and pushed myself and it just didn’t seem to have an impact on my climbing.

Another thing that’s interesting was that my weight fluctuates, and when I did [these problems] I was on the heavier side of what I normally weigh. I also climbed more days on, without rest, and ate more (and a lot more junk food, at that).

UC: What else are you up to these days?

JH: I’m a full-time online student right now. I’m taking the pre-reqs for nursing or pharmacy school.

UC: And how’s that working out?

JH: I love it! I’m taking two different styles, one where you’re taking proctored exams, andone where you do a lot of busy work. It’s cool — you download the lectures to your iPod.

UC: Would you say you’re a full-time climber? A full time student? Or what?

JH: I wouldn’t consider myself a full-time climber. I take breaks from it and focus on other stuff. And I have to work. I try to balance work, school, and climbing — I just do it in blocks.

Pretty soon I’ll be a student first and foremost. I feel like I sacrificed a lot for climbing and there’s some other stuff I would like do now. I used to do a lot of traveling and other things before I started climbing, and I wouldn’t mind resuming some of the things I put off.

 

REEL ROCK FILMMAKING COMPETITION

The annual Reel Rock Film Tour is gearing up for its third season, with 100 or more screenings of the world’s best climbing films coming to a city near you this fall. And if you have a camera, a computer, and a fresh idea, one of the featured films could be yours! The first ever Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition is accepting submissions of short films (3 minutes max) in two categories: Action/Adventure, and Humor/Spoof, through July 15. Judges at Big UP Productions and Sender Films will select the top entries in each category and post them for online voting. The two winners will have their films featured on the Reel Rock Tour, and will rake in grand prize packages worth $5,000 from Windstopper and The North Face.

Check out the Reel Rock site (www.reelrocktour.com) for sample films and submission guidelines — then get those creative juices flowing, fire up the camcorders and laptops, and hit ‘em with your best shot.

Ear Candy — KING LINES SOUNDTRACK NOW AVAILABLE!

You know all those pump-thrusty big beats and earthy-low-tempo wind downs that you hear in Big Up’s videos? The ones that play over and over in your head while you’re psyching yourself up for send? Well, now you can keep those ghostly voices at bay and listen to the real thing whenever you need the fix. The official King Lines Soundtrack is available on download at bigupproductions.com for $11.95. Get it and hit the road.

The King Lines track list includes:

1. “Glitter Clatter” - Throwing Snow

2. “Partners in Progress” - Ryan Szarko

3. “Dance Your Troubles Away” - Up, Bustle & Out

4. “Musica De Paz” - Papa Shanty

5. “Tout L’art De Rouler” - Broken Sound Collective

6. “Under the Counter” - Custom Blue

7. “Midnight Running” - Will It Snow

8. “The Itch” - Bussetti

9. “Claisson” - Jonathan Deans

10. “Death Ain’t Nothing” - Broken Sound Collective

11. “DaBooDaBee” - Sander Pick

12. “Revisiting the Tomb in Miami” – iPascal

13. “Hours” - The Late Greats

14. “Stormbreaker” - Vasco & Paul

15. “All Out King featuring Romanowsky” - Up, Bustle & Out

 

 
 

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