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 First Rumbling Bald Trip of the Season
Video by George Evans - A few problems from Rumbling Bald, North Carolina. A nice, often-overlooked problem on the East side, as well as a classic and a tough sit start. Problems include Stone Wall (V3), Campus Problem (V5), and Lewis Lunge SDS (V9). This boulderfield in western NC features sandstone blocks perfect for winter climbing. The Carolina Climbers Coalition purchased six acres on the West Side to help preserve the climbing. Click here to donate to Save the Boulders to help pay off that loan.  Ryan Silven's RMNP First Ascents
Video by Bear Cam Media - Ryan Silven makes many first ascents in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Problems include Blood of Kaiser (V10), The Shameless Pinch (V6), Boots with the Fur (V8), Gravel Pit (V8), Notorious (V9), Upper Bot (V5), and New Blue Blood (V9). Jamie Emerson recently published a book on Colorado bouldering, called Bouldering Rocky Mountain National Park & Mount Evans, which can be purchased here.  Eric Sanchez on Dreams of White Porsches (5.13b)
Video by Alton Richardson - Eric Sanchez climbs Dreams of White Porsches (5.13b) at Mickey's Beach, California. From Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area, by Tresa Black, Dreams has seven bolts to a two-bolt anchor shared with Wet Dreams (5.12c/d). The first ascent (toprope) was in 1983. It is known as the first 5.13 in the Bay Area. From Jim Thornburg's Bay Area Rock, he says, "heel-cams, toe hooks, unlikely sequences, and perserverance are the keys to linking the widely-spaced features on this unusual climb."  Tahoe Classics Trailer
Video by Alton Richardson - The South Lake Tahoe area has been exploding with new climbs. Many instant classics added in with the already standing. "Tahoe Classics" features new climbs and already established classics that are a must do for the weekend warrior. Climbers: Jesse Bonin, Spoonies Koehler, Alton Richardson, Brad Perry, and Eric Sanchez.  Two Days in Camp 4
Video by Kyle O'Meara - "My first time checking out the practice rocks in Yosemite Valley... It was a real treat for me to finally see so many historic and breath-taking boulders! I saw more boulders that made me think "that's one of the coolest problems I've ever seen" than anywhere else I've visited." Problems include The Force (flash), Wall to Wall Carpet (flash), and Bruce Lee.  Katja Vidmar Bouldering in Fontainebleau
Video by Gašper Bratina - Slovenian climber Katja Vidmar bouldering in Fontainebleau, France. Problems include Lady Big Claques (V7), Magic Bus (V8), and Carnage (V9). She also tried Duel (V11) and Noir Desir (V9). Vidmar and her sister, Maja, have been busy bouldering and competing in the bouldering and lead World Cups of 2011. Katja's best result in 2011 was fourth in a Bouldering WC in Log-Dragomer, Slovenia. See more photos from her trip to Font here.  Lincoln Lake Sessions, Parts 1 & 2
Video by Wes Walker - A few boulder problems from Lincoln Lake, Mt. Evans, Colorado, during September 2011. Problems include Unshackled (V10), Rebellion (V9), Purple is Not a Cooler (V10), Honey Badger (V11), and Bebe Wolverine (V12). Bouldering at Lincoln Lake was really put on the map in summer 2010, when Dave Graham and Daniel Woods stormed through the boulderfields, establishing the area's hardest problems, including numerous V15s. Moderates and warm-ups are aplenty as well. See more Lincoln Lake movies on our video page.  Sport Climbing at Margalef, Spain
Video by Rocanbolt - "The rock of these walls is a very special kind of rock. It is a conglomerate, basically with a lot of holes. The most common holds here are one- and two-finger pockets, and that's what's great about this place. Besides the pocket holes, we have tufas, crimps, pinches... We have everything. It's perfect for climbing." Many people travel to Catalunya, Spain, every year to try out the fantastic and high-quality sport climbing. The weather is dry, the winters are mild, and the climbing possibilities are endless.  Bouldering at Grandmother Mountain
Video by Drexel Bakker - Boonebeta.com presents climbing at Grandmother Mountain on a beautiful day. Problems include The Gift (V2), Lennix Louis (V4), Pulling Teeth (V4), Mighty Mouse (V5), and Six Pack for Sure (V6). Grandmother Mountain, accessed by the beautiful Blue Ridge Parkway, is perfect for spring, summer, and fall bouldering, due to its cooler temps and shaded areas. For more bouldering around Boone, check out the recent Mileage article, titled "Hidden Gems," from Climbing no. 299.  2011 Yank-n-Yard on Yale
Video by Stone Age Climbing Gym - For the 15th year in a row, the Yank-N-Yard on Yale bouldering competition has brought rock climbers together from around the Southwest region to compete for cash and fun. This year three categories (Open, Citizens, and Youth ABS) brought 170 climbers to Stone Age Climbing Gym with goals ranging from having fun to walking away with a $1,000 check.  Access Fund Conservation Team Project - Red River Gorge
Video by The Access Fund - After interviewing many great candidates, the Access Fund is pleased to welcome Dave Montgomery and Jeff Young as the Conservation Team crew. The duo met during their days working for Jefferson County Open Space in Colorado as trail technicians, and applied for the crew together. Both are avid climbers and come to the Access Fund with extensive trail building, stewardship, and conservation expertise. The Conservation Team started off their 2011 trip with a trail project in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky.  Mélissa le Nevé in Rocklands, South Africa
Video by Mélissa le Nevé - A short movie about bouldering in Rocklands, South Africa. Mélissa le Nevé climbs Black Shadow (V12), Nutsa (V11), and a flash of The Hatchling (V11). She climbed these problems back in August. Other sends include An Amal Roof (V9), Pendragon (V11), and The Arch (V11). She ranked fourth this year in the Bouldering World Cup, winning five medals in 2011.  Sam Elias on Rifle's Tomfoolery (5.14b)
Video by Joe Kinder - Sam Elias climbs the seldom repeated Tomfoolery (5.14b) in Rifle Canyon. This route put up by Tommy Caldwell ca. 1996 or 1997 is rarely climbed yet attempted by the best. An ultra-bizarre style gets you up this route, and Sam Elias made a repeat in the summer of 2010. More recently, Jonathan Siegrist attempted the route but was unable to figure out the beta.  Cornwall Cliff in England Collapses
Video by Utubecamborne - Active coastal erosion in Cornwall, England. Very lucky to witness thousands of tons of rock falling into the Atlantic! The failure occurred at about 5 p.m. on Friday, September 23, 2011 on the North Coast of Cornwall. There were only a few people watching, with about the same number of inquisitive seals in the water! There were lots of "small" failures just before the main event. This appears to be a progressive failure, the frequency and size of the smaller failures increased until the inevitable happened. The sound was incredible. Those cliffs are about 150 to 200 feet high.  2011 IFSC Lead World Cup - Boulder, CO
Video by Louder Than 11 - On October 8 and 9, 2011, Boulder, Colorado, was home to the first IFSC Lead World Cup on U.S. soil in more than 20 years. Powered by The North Face, the competition gave climbers from 13 countries the opportunity to showcase their talents to a sold-out crowd at Movement Climbing + Fitness. Austrians Johanna Ernst and Jakob Schubert took first place, followed by Mina Markovic and Sachi Amma, with Momoka Oda and Romain Desgranges in third. Read more here.  USA Climbing Route-setting Clinic
Video by Brooklyn Boulders - USA Climbing's Level I Routesetting Clinic, hosted by the Central Rock Gym in Hadley, MA. The clinic was taught by Chris Danielson and was held on the 14th and 15th of September, 2011. "The Level 1 clinic is a clinic I designed for USA Climbing about 6 or 7 years ago, and essentially it's an introductory clinic to teach people the fundamentals of route-setting mechanics, theory, and approaches to competition route-setting," Danielson says. "The idea is that you get a lot of different people working together to talk about things like setting for fairness, dividing a field in competition, and creativity."  One Old, Two New in Boone, NC
Video by Brion Voges - One Old, Two New features Brion Voges and Brad Weaver at Lost Cove Boulders and Hound Ears in Boone, North Carolina. Climbs include Kratos (V12), one of the area's hardest boulder problems; Subject to Change (V11); and Projections (V12). The Triple Crown Bouldering Series visited Hound Ears the weekend of October 1, and had to be postponed due to inclement weather. Click here to see the results.  Colorado Bouldering Tour 2011
Video by Kentaro Suzuki - A tour of Colorado bouldering, including: Lower Chaos Canyon in Rocky Mountain National Park (The Automator, v13; Nuthin' But Sunshine, V13; European Human Being, V12; Secret Splendour, V12; Tommy's Arete, V7); Upper Chaos (Sunspot, V10; 1,000 Shades of Green, V9); Emerald Lake (Whispers of Wisdom, V10); and Mt. Evans (Black Tornado, V7).  Arco World Championships 2011 - Behind the Czech Team
Video by Jack Slowprint - A short documentary about the participation of the Czech team at the World Climbing Championship in Arco, Italy. Adam Ondra took second in bouldering and third in lead, securing him the gold medal for men's overall. The Czech climbers also placed seventh, 43rd, and 85th in men's bouldering; 79th, 91st, 100th, and 123rd in men's lead; 5th and 70th in men's speed; 33rd and 47th in women's bouldering; and 26th and 43rd in women's lead.  The Season 2.9: Almost Home
Video by Fitz Cahall and Bryan Smith - After Cedar was born, Thomasina moved back home and tried to make a go of settling down. Newfoundland provided a sense of home. It was a place where store owners knew locals' names and people helped one another. She managed it for a few months, but after a while the nomadic climber in her needed to leave. For Thomasina, the only thing that could rival the Newfoundland community was the climbing community. |
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