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 Carlo Traversi Talks with Bear Grylls
Video by Discovery Channel - "Thanks to my wonderful shoe sponsor Five Ten, I had the opportunity to chat with Bear Grylls about adrenaline for the Degree Men Adrenaline Lab which is a series of commercial web episodes featured on The Discovery Channel. It was a really cool experience and it’s great to see mainstream television showing interest in climbing." —Carlo Traversi  Stone Fort Triple Crown 2011
Video by Zachary Lesch-Huie - A short video from the 2011 Stone Fort leg of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series. Highlights include bouldering and post-comp party on the 18th hole; Jimmy Webb's first ascent of Palm Beach (V9); sketchy belly flop topouts; and more. Winners include Kasia Pietras (1st), Isabelle Faus (2nd), and Leanna Lockhart (3rd) for women's open; Brad Weaver (1st), Nate Draughn (2nd), and Andrew Palmer (3rd) for men's open. See more results here.  Southern Utah Bouldering - Episodes 1-4
Videos by Zach Bradford - These videos feature bouldering in Utah, including the areas Moe's Valley, Virgin Cave, and Sweet Hills Wash. Climbers are Zach Bradford, Adam Ryder, and Bryce Adair. Problems include The Bounty Hunter (V10), 50 Degrees of Perfection (V9), Yo-Yo Boy (V9), Indolence (V8), RotoKarl (V9), Quad Damage (V8), Bazooka Tooth (V10), The Thing (V10), Psychological Disorder (V10), and many more.  Redemption at Indian Creek
Video by Wes Walker - "After nearly ending it at Indian Creek in 2009, which ended with an expensive helicopter ride back to Grand Junction, I was interested to see if I would enjoy returning or not. I took a 50-foot fall onto the head (no helmet)—cracked the skull, vomited, seizured, then passed out. Woke up from a coma three days later, feeling fine. It was an eerie feeling to walk up to the base of the route again, especially since some of the blood was still visible two years later.  Climbing at the Lilly Boulders, Tennessee
Video by Jimmy Webb - Nate Draughn climbs Testify (V12) and Taylor McNeill climbs Reclusive (V11) and Johnson City (V9) at the Lilly Boulders, Obed, Tennessee. The best times to climb at Lilly are fall and late winter; the season runs from early October through late April. The sandstone boulders feature a lot of roof climbing, with more than 125 problems in the area.  Chris Lindner on Buzzsaw (V10), Black Mountain, CA
Video by Hairless Monkey Films - Chris Lindner climbs Buzzsaw (V10) at the granite boulders in Black Mountain, California. From mountainproject.com: "A variety of boulder problems are found, both in terms of steepness and grades. Located at 7,500 feet, bouldering here is in a beautiful mountain setting—pine trees are as plentiful as the boulders are. Most newcomers to Black Mountain quickly notice two things: 1) the problems here are often tall and off-the-deck; 2) the ratings are HARD for the grade. Fear not—many of the most visible problems are indeed tall (20+ feet in Boulder Basin), but shorter problems can be found if one looks close enough.  Tomorrow I Will Be Gone - Full-length Film
Video by Outcrop Films - "Tomorrow I Will Be Gone" is Outcrop Films' debut feature-length film. Set in the sandstone paradise of Rocklands, South Africa, the film follows a selection of Britain's finest boulderers on their trip, grappling with the best the boulders have to offer. Watch mega classics and Nicole testpieces such as Golden Shadow and Black Eagle. No interviews, no nonsense, just climbing. Featuring Micky Page, David Mason, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Lucinda Whittaker, Sam Whittaker, Scott Gibson, Grant Bateman, Andy Banks, Richard Sharp,e and Nick Brown.  Nalle Hukkataival Bouldering in Fontainebleau
Video by Black Diamond Equipment - Nalle Hukkataival ventured to the iconic blocs of Fontainebleau, France, in early 2011 and pulled off a string of impressive ascents during his stay. Here is a highlight reel filmed and edited by Alvi Pakarinen that brilliantly captures Nalle sending Karma (V12), Elephunk (V13), L'Apparemment (V13), and the stunning dyno of Rainbow Rocket (V11)—to name just a few. After all of Nalle's masterful sendage, you'll want to watch the last 2:30 of the video were Nalle (jacked ankle and all) endures failure after failure after failure on La Puce, a one-move-wonder V11 dyno.  God Module (V11), Horse Pens 40, Alabama
Video by Andrew Minnick - God Module (V11) is a beautiful line at Horse Pens 40, Alabama, put up by James Litz. One of the Southeast's finest, and definitely on the lifetime "to-do" list. It's also one of the hardest lines at Horse Pens, located on the Slider Boulder. The Triple Crown Bouldering Series will pass through Horse Pens on November 4 for its last stop of the year. Check out triplecrownboulderingseries.com for more info on the comp.  Västervik International Boulder Meet 2011
Video by Shawn Boye - Watch Anthony Gullsten, Guntram Jörg, Chris Webb Parsons, and Alex Puccio send some of Västervik's finest boulder problems during the Västervik International Boulder Meet 2011, Västervik, Sweden. Featuring More Than One Way To Skin A Cat (V11), Storm (V11), Goofhead Variant (V12), The Hourglass Sds (V13), The Office Sds (V11), and Namaste (V12).  The Season 2.14: El Cap Dreaming
Video by Fitz Cahall and Bryan Smith - “The List is this ongoing process in my head,” says climber Craig DeMartino. Each season, his mind wanders over past climbs. They bubble to the surface, and Craig makes it a point to go out and repeat them, but over the years, a funny thing happened. The list became less about looking backward and more as a means of looking forward. Craig climbs as hard if not harder than he did before his accident and amputation, so it would only make sense that he would add new, more challenging routes to The List.  Celestial Mechanics and Spyro Gyro (both V7) at Little Rock City
Video by Jonathan Carter - A couple of classic problems from Little Rock City (aka Stone Fort) outside Chattanooga, Tennessee. Two climbers on Celestial Mechanics and Spyro Gyro, both V7. According to Andy Wellman's Stone Fort Bouldering, Spyro Gyro "features some really cool holds and some hard moves." Celestial Mechanics is a must-do of its grade at LRC. Wellman says it's the "big brother of Tristar (V4) and just as good, if not better." Many may find Celestial Mechanics' grade to be height-dependent.  The Amendment (V10), Boulder Canyon
Video by Wes Walker - Dream Alive Productions brings you The Amendment (V10) in Boulder Canyon, Colorado. From mountainproject.com: "The Amendment is just above Boulder Falls 50 feet from the water's edge and 75-100 yards from the falls. The problem traverses into an existing boulder problems called Freedom. Start on the left side of the boulder and traverse on bad slopers into Freedom. Finish Freedom. Freedom is rated V10, with The Amendment being more difficult, so the 10/11 grade is given. Maybe easier, may be harder than 10/11." Click the link for more info.  La Sportiva Legends Only Competition
Photo by Robert Rundin - Highlights of the La Sportiva Legends Only competition in Stockholm, Sweden, in October. Five hundred people were present to see Adam Ondra, Dmitry Sharafutdinov, Daniel Woods, Andy Gullsten, and Paul Robinson compete against each other. Each participant was able to work the five problems for two hours the day prior to the comp, and there was no isolation. Ondra came out on top.  Fred Nicole: My Own Way
Video by Prana Living - Fred Nicole, one of the most inspiring boulderers alive, talks about his longest-standing project in Switzerland, and how he sees himself as a climber. "It might sound a bit strange, but it was never my goal to be in front of the scene... I'm searching for new difficulty for everybody and the whole world of climbing. It was my own way... Climbing is more than a physical activity." His project was in Amden, Switzerland, which he calls L' Isola Che Non C'e.  One Week at Horse Pens 40 and Stone Fort
Video by JMM - A bunch of problems from a trip to Horse Pens 40, Alabama, and the Stone Fort, Tennessee. Problems range from Ring My Bell (V2) and Mortal Kombat (V4) at Horse Pens to Farah's Fawcett (V0) and Celestial Mechanics (V7) at Stone Fort. The Triple Crown Bouldering Series recently made its way through the Stone Fort for the annual competition, and will hit Horse Pens on November 5. Click here to see the results of the Stone Fort and Hound Ears competitions.  First Rumbling Bald Trip of the Season
Video by George Evans - A few problems from Rumbling Bald, North Carolina. A nice, often-overlooked problem on the East side, as well as a classic and a tough sit start. Problems include Stone Wall (V3), Campus Problem (V5), and Lewis Lunge SDS (V9). This boulderfield in western NC features sandstone blocks perfect for winter climbing. The Carolina Climbers Coalition purchased six acres on the West Side to help preserve the climbing. Click here to donate to Save the Boulders to help pay off that loan.  Ryan Silven's RMNP First Ascents
Video by Bear Cam Media - Ryan Silven makes many first ascents in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Problems include Blood of Kaiser (V10), The Shameless Pinch (V6), Boots with the Fur (V8), Gravel Pit (V8), Notorious (V9), Upper Bot (V5), and New Blue Blood (V9). Jamie Emerson recently published a book on Colorado bouldering, called Bouldering Rocky Mountain National Park & Mount Evans, which can be purchased here.  Eric Sanchez on Dreams of White Porsches (5.13b)
Video by Alton Richardson - Eric Sanchez climbs Dreams of White Porsches (5.13b) at Mickey's Beach, California. From Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area, by Tresa Black, Dreams has seven bolts to a two-bolt anchor shared with Wet Dreams (5.12c/d). The first ascent (toprope) was in 1983. It is known as the first 5.13 in the Bay Area. From Jim Thornburg's Bay Area Rock, he says, "heel-cams, toe hooks, unlikely sequences, and perserverance are the keys to linking the widely-spaced features on this unusual climb."  Tahoe Classics Trailer
Video by Alton Richardson - The South Lake Tahoe area has been exploding with new climbs. Many instant classics added in with the already standing. "Tahoe Classics" features new climbs and already established classics that are a must do for the weekend warrior. Climbers: Jesse Bonin, Spoonies Koehler, Alton Richardson, Brad Perry, and Eric Sanchez. |
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