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 Potter's Point Bouldering
Video by Damon Corso - A gorgeous day bouldering at Potter's Point high above Santa Barbara, California. Featuring Norman Montes and his student Sammy on some instant classics; Norman on Premature Egg Baby (V7, first ascent), Sammy on A Work in Progress Sit (V4, possible first ascent), and Norman on Leviathan Hunting (V7, first ascent).  Emily Harrington Climbs Ice at Ouray
Video by The North Face - Emily Harrington shares her new experiences with ice climbing and the trust needed to successfully send an ice climb. Climber Sam Elias also provides insight and mentorship on this highly technical climbing style. Harrington won first place at last weekend's 17th annual Ouray Ice Festival in Colorado, followed by Dawn Glanc (who won in 2011). Nathan Kutcher and Andres Marin took first and second for the men.  Park Life: Yosemite Bouldering - Official Trailer
Video by Louder Than 11 - A new feature video from LT11. A group of climbers took a two-week bouldering trip to Yosemite National Park to climb some of the best granite in the world. Twenty-eight boulder problems are featured, climbed by Natasha Barnes, Rich Crowder, Sarah Fullerton, Jon Glassberg, Jordan Shipman, Ryan Silven, Ben Vernon, Anson Whitmer, Dave Wetmore, and Max Zolotukhin. Stay tuned for the full-length film, available January 16.  WHY - with Corey Rich
Video by Corey Rich - An interesting look into why "extreme" athletes are so deeply connected to their respective sports, with kayaker Dane Jackson, mountain biker Rebecca Rusch, and climber Alex Honnold. A must-see video. In the climbing segments, Honnold solos Equinox (5.12c/d) in Joshua Tree National Park, California. This is likely his third hardest solo, the others being Heaven (5.12d) and Cosmic Debris (5.13a) in Yosemite.  Rumble in the Jungle: Parts 1 & 2
Video by Cedar Wright - "After a whirlwind three-day travel sequence, Lucho and I found ourselves on Tioman Island, Malaysia, staring up at the mythical 'Dragon's Horns.' It was hard to believe that only one of the huge jungle spires had been climbed... until we started the approach... and then it made more sense. But after some epic jungle bushwhacking which culminated with me being attacked by giant hummingbird-sized wasps, we managed to summit the unclimbed Dragon's Horn on our first full day on the island. We topped out at night and endured a shiver bivy until about 2 a.m. when an an impending lightning storm encouraged us to rappel at night."  Committed: The Nose on El Cap
Video by Mark and Janelle Smiley - "Nearly 3,000 vertical feet of pure awesomeness. The Nose was the original line up El Cap. It is said to be the best rock climb in the world, and after completing it we would have to agree... After a summer of light and fast climbing, we were in for a healthy dose of slow and heavy climbing, or should I say, manual labor. Hauling is just tough work." Read the trip report at smileysproject.com. This marks the Smiley's 35th classic climb completed.  JP Ouellet on No Way Jose (5.13)
Video by Black Diamond/James Q Martin - J.P. "Peewee" Oullete is always on the hunt for hard crack lines and set his sights on repeating the notoriously hard No Way Jose (5.13, North Wash, Utah). As with most significant ascents, this one is not without a great backstory, as Peewee battles illness and airline tickets in order to get the redpoint.  Alex Puccio on Jack's Broken Heart (V12)
Video by Alex Puccio - In May 2011, Alex Puccio climbed Jack's Broken Heart (V12) in Magic Wood, Switzerland. On her 8a.nu scorecard, she commented, "AMAZING!!! Scary first move and a bit of a scary top. Perfect boulder! Did it in a few tries." Jack's Broken Heart marked her 10th of the grade; other V12s include The Centaur (Rocky Mountain National Park), Diaphanous Sea and Tequila Sunrise (Hueco Tanks), and Clear Blue Skies (Mt. Evans).  Kasia Pietras and Jimmy Webb on V11, V13
Video by Brandon Shepherd - Here, Kasia Pietras and Jimmy Webb climb Gross's Roof (V11) and Gross's Roof Sit (V13) in Cumberland, Tennessee. According to Webb's blog, Pietras sent Gross's Roof fairly quickly.This was Pietras' second V11 after she climbed Sunshine at Hueco Tanks, Texas. She also ticked Loaded with Power (V10), Bush League (V9), Glass Roof (V9), and at least seven other V8s and V9s.  Barbara Zangerl Climbs Hotel Supramonte (5.13d, 400m)
Video by planetmountain.com - Barbara Zangerl climbs Hotel Supramonte (5.13d, 400 meters, 10 pitches) on the Italian island of Sardinia. The easiest pitch of the route is 5.12c. Rolando Larcher bolted and climbed the route in 1998; Pietro Dal Pra made the first free ascent in 2000. Adam Onda onsighted the route in 2008.  Ondra on Big Paw and From Dirt (V15s)
Video by BERNARTWOOD - Adam Ondra climbed his first two V15 boulders in November 2010 in Ticino, Switzerland: Big Paw and From Dirt Grows the Flowers. These two boulders did not find their place in the final movie about Adam Ondra. Ondra recently climbed two V16s, Gioia and Terranova. Read his interview about Gioia here.  Nalle Takes Down Three V13s in Hueco Tanks
Video by ZeroSkillz - Nalle Hukkataival continues his tear through Hueco Tanks, Texas. Here, he climbs Terre de Sienne (V13), A Tale of Two Gabors (V13), and Diabolique (V13) on North Mountain. Hukkataival commented that Terre de Sienne felt harder than Esperanza, a V14 also on North Mountain. He also thought that A Tale of Two Gabors had "quite possibly the most complicated sequence I've ever done."  Straight out of Africa - FEATURE LENGTH
Video by Louder Than 11 - Brian Antheunisse, Scott Cory, Rob D'Anastasio, and Dave Wetmore travel to Rocklands, South Africa, on a bouldering safari. Follow the crew as they climb more than 20 boulders from V8 to V13, narrowly avoiding being eaten by lions, all to a 1980s soundtrack! Problemes include Amphitheatre (V12), Black Mango Chutney (V10), Golden Virginia (V11), Paula Abdul (V10), Power of One (V13), Witness the Sickness (V11), and many more.  Islands: Traditional Tales of Lakeland Climbing
Video by Dom Bush/Land and Sky Media - ‘Islands: Traditional Tales of Lakeland Climbing’ is a three-part film which gives an insight into the world of hard traditional ascents in the birthplace of rock climbing, the English Lake District. 'Islands' features fantastic footage of first ascents and hard repeats of routes from E6 (5.12c) to E9 (5.13c) by Wild Country and Red Chili climbers Adam Hocking and James McHaffie, as well Lakes stalwarts Mike Przygrodzki and Stuart Wood. It also features interviews and commentaries from Lakes legend and Wild Country climber Dave Birkett and the indefatigable Leo Houlding.  Alizée Dufraisse climbing 5.14b in Ceüse
Video by Prana Living - "L’Arcadémicien des Crépis is a really hard route: old style, technical and mentally hard. Everything natural in Demi Lune sector of Ceüse. It took a lot of time for me, but I really wanted to do it, so I did it!" —Alizée Dufraisse on L'Arcademicien (5.14b), which she climbed in 2010. Recently, she redpointed her hardest route yet, Patinoso (5.14c), in Siurana, Spain. See Dufraisse on Patinoso here.  Rumbling Bald in October
Video by Jonathan Carter - Bouldering in Rumbling Bald on an unseasonably cold day in October. Problems include The Ladder (V1), Kung Fu Grip (V5), Karma Police (V8), Full Contact (V8), Politician (V8), Brackish Water (V8), and more. From the Carolina Climbers Coalition: "Southern exposure, classic lines of all grades and world class bouldering make Rumbling Bald a mandatory part of the winter climbing circuit in the South. From long slab routes to overhung roof cracks, Rumbling Bald has something for everyone."  Bishop Classics
Video by Alton Richardson - Alton Richardson and the Ground Up Collective present a collection of classic boulder problems from the spring 2011. Richardson, Eric Sanchez (click here to see Sanchez on Dreams of White Porsches, 5.13b), and Fabian Dior Siwajian on problems like Strength in Numbers (V5), Secrets of the Beehive (V5), Bowling Pin Sit (V6), Rave (V7), Fly Boy Sit (V8, flash), Disco Diva (V8), and Xavier's Roof (V11). Also features third ascent footage of Half Shark Alligator, Half Man (V11).  Dan Beall on Direct North (V14), Buttermilks, California
Video by Dan Beall - Dan Beall recently made the third ascent of Shawn Diamond's link-up problem Direct North on the Grandma Peabody boulder in the Buttermilks, California. Diamond made the first ascent in 2009. The problem starts on Direction (V13, another Diamond problem) and finishes on Magnetic North (V9/10). French climber Guillaume Glairon-Mondet made the second ascent of the line in early spring 2011. This video shows Beall's attempt right before his ascent.  Gabriele Moroni Climbs Bella Regis (5.14c), Trento, Italy
Video by Gruppo Struktura - Italian climber Gabriele Moroni climbs his route Bella Regis ["looks like the prow of a ship," Moroni says] (5.14c) at Bus de Vela, Trento, Italy. This crag hosts a dense concentration of some of Italy's hardest routes. Moroni bolted and made the first ascent of this line in October 2011. "To tell the truth, I had never seen such a wall in Italy," Moroni says in the video. "So many aesthetic lines... In Italy you cannot find such a concentration of difficult routes."  Alizée Dufraisse on Patinoso (5.14c), Siurana, Spain
Video by phil - French climber Alizée Dufraisse has repeated the climb Patinoso (5.14c) in Siurana, Spain. According to ukclimbing.com, she was aiming to climb the route Chikane, an 80-foot 5.14c in the Campi Qui Pugui sector. She instead redpointed Patinoso, a 130-foot endurance route in the El Pati sector. This is Dufraisse's first of the grade; previously, she had climbed two 5.14b's, including l'Arcadémicien in Céüse in 2010—a 5.14b established by Sylvain Millét that had not seen a repeat since a hold broke on the route. |
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