George Ullrich on a flash attempt of Gaia Video by Dave Gill / SteepMedia.com - Gaia (E8 6c) is one of those routes we all know about. You’d be hard pressed to find many climbers that haven’t stumbled across the horrendous fall in the opening scene of Slackjaw Film's Hard Grit. It’s interesting reading people's thoughts on the internet and in magazines, about how video is directly affecting modern climbing. When is watching a video beta?
Concrete Mountains - Buildering in Indianapolis Video by Greg Oppman / GregOppman.com - Concrete Mountains is a video about Indianapolis builderers: David Fromke, Miguel Caesar, Christopher Newgent, Dr. Jay and Logan Shaefer. It captures the struggles Midwesterners go through when training for a climbing trip when concrete is the closest thing they can find to real rock within their city.
Heart of Stone
Video by Andrew Kornylak / akornphoto.com and Josh Fowler / boycottmedia.com - It's no secret that the Southeastern US has some of the best rock climbing in the country. Grassroots organizations like the Southeastern Climbers Coalition and the Carolina Climbers Coalition are gaining and preserving access to this treasure in a unique way by buying it. The annual Triple Crown Bouldering Competition the largest outdoor climbing competition in the world is at the center of this access revolution.
2008 Petzl RocTrip - Zillertal, Austria
Video by Guillaume Broust - On July 23-27, 2008, the Petzl RocTrip visited the granite boulders and cliffs near Mayrhofen, Austria, in the spectacular Tyrolean Alps. This unique gathering of climbers featured multimedia presentations, climbing competitions and parties — all celebrating the spirit of climbing. Visit Petzl.com and PetzlTeam.com to learn more about RocTrip and to catch the next one near you.
On Sight Teaser- The Fairhead Fall Video by Alastar Lee / PosingProductions.com - On Sight won both the "Best Climbing Film" award and the coverted "Grand Prize" at the 2008 Kendal Mountain film Festival. Shown in this clip Ricky Bell goes for a big dyno, misses it and takes a pretty good sized whipper. In the feature film Bell takes an even bigger one; Sender Film's Peter Mortimer said, "That fall was just about the craziest thing I've ever seen."
The Send - Trailer Video by Shawn Boye / www.tielma.com - The Send documents Björn Strömberg's project Leroy 8c at Granitgrottan in Bohuslån. Björn spent 28 days and more than 120 attempts before finally sending... The full length film The Sends to be released Fall 2009 features deep water soloing, bouldering and rope developments during a two year odyssey around Sweden.
Team America On The Grit
Videos by Kevin Jorgeson courtesy of www.ukclimbing.com - Kevin Jorgeson, Alex Honnold, and Matt Segal have been on a rampage of England's gritstone with Jorgeson's ground-up ascent of Parthian Shot (E9 6c), Jorgeson's repeat of The Promise (E10 or E8) and The Groove (E11 or E8), a team ascent of End of the Affair (E8 6c), Honnold's onsight of Master's Edge (E7 6b) and more... See ukclimbing.com for more about their sending spree on English Gritstone.
Andy Parkin: "Life in adaptation" - Trailer By Pip Piper / bluehippomedia.com - The 30 minute documentary, shot over 2 years by Blue Hippo Media and Weekday Productions, provides a powerful insight to the life of a remarkable man who, in 1984, suffered a near fatal Alpine climbing accident. Many then believed Andy’s love affair with the mountains to be over. Read More.
2008 Yangshuo Climbing Festival Video courtesy of Black Diamond Equipment - More than 350 climbers from 15 countries and more than half the provinces in China came together the First Annual The North Face/Black Diamond Yangshuo Climbing Festival was held from October 31 through November 2 in and around the town of Yangshuo in Southeast China’s Guangxi Province. Yangshuo’s endless chain of limestone karst towers spread amongst the surrounding rivers and farmland provided a surreal backdrop to the weekend’s events. READ MORE.
The First Ascent of French Duke (E9 7a) Video by Alastair Lee and Adam Lincoln - In this video Jordan Buys makes the first ascent of the ultra-modern gritstone testpiece French Duke (E9 7a), which consists of a Font 7c+ boulder problem high above marginal gear. Buys spent 10 days dialing the slopey arête moves before finally sending the risky headpoint. French Duke is located at Earl Crag, Yorkshire, UK. For more info visit: PosingProductions.com
Crack Addict Tease A film by Ian Bergeron - An interview with Montreal climber Jean-Pierre "Peewee" Ouellet and footage on two hard cracks in Quebec: Toit de Ben (5.13a) and En attendant que ça séche (5.12+/5.13-). Peewee has repeated some of the hardest cracks in North America: From Switzerland with Love (5.13+), Learning to Fly (5.13+), Desert Gold (5.13), Sphinx Crack (5.13b/c) and established his own La Zebreé (5.14a). Click Here to watch the 13:30 minute video courtesy of EscaladeQuebec.com
Heart of Stone Trailer A new film by Andrew Kornylak and Josh Fowler / akornphoto.com See the premiere at the Triple Crown finale on December 5-6 in Chattanooga, TN. The focus of the film is Climbing Access in the Southeast. In addition to the release, attendees will have an opportunity to listen to discussions lead by leading climber/activists Lisa Rands, Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden-Caldwell, and Kevin Jorgeson. For more info visit: triplecrownbouldering.com
Call it what you want - Official Trailer
Call it what you want follows Kendal climber, George Ullrich, as he tests himself over a year, at home in the UK and further afield. We see him climb Lake District testpieces, skip the bolts on The Bachar-Yerian, nail Californian first ascents and solo above the ocean in Mallorca.
Leah Crane on Ben's Roof (V10)
Leah Crane, 19 from Sheffield, England has recently made an ascent of the Raven Tor classic boulder problem Ben's Roof (Font 7c+ or V10). It took Leah a sustained effort over a two week period, including a few nightime sessions after work with a headlamp.
The Magic Wood, Switzerland
Join Philipp Hrozek, Ulrike, Korger, Elisabeth Flassbeck and few others on a journey to Switzerland's Magic Wood boulders. Problems featured in this video are the massive roof of Unendlich Geschichte (8a+), the Riverbed (8b), Enterprise Traverse (7a+), and Electric Boogie (8a+).
Nor'easter - Kevin Jorgeson on Feeding Frenzy Kevin Jorgeson boulders Feeding Frenzy, a steep 5.13d sport route at Rumney, New Hampshire. Music by State Radio. The Nor'easter powered by Eastern Mountain Sports is a weekend-long festival of music, sport, and conservation happening September 26-28, 2008 at Tenney Mountain in Plymouth, NH. Visit: noreasterems.com
Nor'easter - Kevin Jorgeson boulders The Fly Kevin Jorgeson boulders The Fly, a wicked hard 5.14d/V14 sport route (or boulder problem) at Rumney, New Hampshire. Music by BassNectar. The Nor'easter powered by Eastern Mountain Sports is a weekend-long festival of music, sport, and conservation happening September 26-28, 2008 at Tenney Mountain in Plymouth, NH. Visit: noreasterems.com
2008 Reel Rock Film Tour Trailer During September and October, The 2008 REEL ROCK Tour will be thrilling crowds from New Paltz to Cape Town and dozens of points in between with the best climbing and outdoor adventure films of the year. Hightlights include: REEL ROCK Filmmaking Competition Winners, Grand Canyon Walls, The Sharp End, South Africa, The Aerialist, and On Sight. For more info visit: www.reelrocktour.com
Koh Tao — Adventure Climbing in Thailand By Nathan Cando / FanaticalFilms.com - Experience the intensity and beauty that is Thailand; the most popular budget-friendly climbing destination in the world! Follow four young climbers Levente Pinter, Alley Dorey, Isaac Caldiero, and Abbey Smith as they travel and climb their way throughout “The land of good karma”.
Sierra Segment Trailer - Call it what you want
A film by Dave Gill - The Sierra Nevada Range in California hosts some of the most alluring and respected rock rutes in the world. Call it what you want takes an indepth plunge into the intricate topics and controversies that surround the idea of ‘true’ climbing through the eyes of well known, and lesser-known, figures in the climbing world.
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