Poached (5.12a)—While not one of the canyon’s first developers, Mike Cronin may very well be one of its most prolific. Cronin carried the torch for almost a decade, establishing an astounding résumé of 5.12s during the 2000s.

Unknown or ignored by most climbers, South Dakota climbing is considered some of the best in the Midwest, although information can be scarce. Early this summer, a new guidebook, Black Hills Limestone Rock Climbing (blackhillsclimbingguide.com), will be published. The author, Mike Cronin, was nice enough to share info from his book, which will include fullcolor pages, maps, and 718 routes in Victoria Canyon, Bethlehem, Falling Rock, and Spearfish Canyon.

WHEN TO GO: The climate is all over the board, with temperatures varying drastically from season to season or day to day. Spring: 40°F to 70° days, or snowy with sub-zero temps. Summer: 70° to 90° with a few 100+° days. Fall (the best time to go): 40° to 80° with mostly dry weather. Winter: very cold with 200+ inches of snow likely.

WHERE TO STAY: Three NFS campgrounds are located in upper Spearfish Canyon, just minutes from the climbing. $15/site (maximum eight people and two cars), May-Sept.; free in fall and early spring; closed in winter. Camping is also available in Spearfish at the city park at the bottom of the canyon. Open May 1–October 1. $18/site for the first person and $1 each additional person; four-person and two-vehicle max unless it’s a family. Sites with full hook-ups are $30; call (605) 642-1340 for more information. Primitive camping is allowed on National Forest land, but not in Spearfish Canyon proper. Time limit is 14 days within a 60-day period and no fires. If caught, you will be fined and jeopardize the area for everybody. There are also motels, hotels, and rental cabins throughout the Black Hills. An Internet search will provide the most accurate locations and prices.

HOW TO GET THERE: Spearfi sh is in western South Dakota just off I-90; the nearest towns to the climbing are Spearfish and Lead. Approximate driving times: Denver–6 hrs; SLC–9 hrs; Minneapolis–9 hrs; Ten Sleep, WY–3.5 hrs; Devils Tower, WY–1.5 hrs.

MUST CLIMB AT: Big Picture Wall, Indian Wars Wall at the Mohican, Iron Horse Wall at Blue Sky, Court House Wall at Shadow Lands, Darkside Wall

WHAT YOU NEED: 60m rope, 15 to 20 draws, stick clip, bug spray

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