FIRST BURN PHOTOS

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Peter Vintoniv tests out the dreamy Malice Afterthought (6b E3) at the Candelabra del Sol in Costa Blanca, Spain, which has 120 miles of white-sand beaches and crags like this. Photo by Andrew Burr	Steven Dison sticks it out on Maxipad (V6), a classic at Joe's Valley, Utah. Photo by Gustavo Moser

Aaron LaPlante snags a perfect heel hook on The Hero Roof (V0) during a midnight bouldering session in the Buttermilks, Bishop, California. Photo by R. Tyler Gross	Ethan Saffer gets a taste of Doughboy's (V7) interesting footwork and slab-happy corner climbing at Carter Lake, Colorado. Photo by Gustavo Moser

Kai Huang controls the swing on The Price for Fire (5.13-) in Morrison, one of Colorado's warmest winter climbing areas. Photo by Adam Bove	Joe Stern pulls through the crux of Lord of the Flies (V0) under a full moon at sunset at the Lizard's Mouth in Santa Barbara, California. Photo by R. Tyler Gross

Jeremy Tomly reaches for the finishing moves on The Angler (V2), a beautiful and fun line in Joe's Valley, Utah. Photo by Gustavo Moser	Justin Ridgley finds good feet and solid hands on the first ascent of For Skin (V6), a steep, beachside problem on the Arch in Oahu, Hawaii. Photo by Eddie Gianelloni

Nate Welton on Virgin No More (5.13a), one of the harder, taller, and more sustained routes in Penitente Canyon, Colorado. Photo by Keith Ladzinski	Portia Menlove snags the last hold on Frosted Flakes (V4) in Joe's Valley, Utah, before embarking on the slightly exciting topout. Photo by Ryan Wedemeyer

Enjoying the summertime oasis of Mountain Beavers, California, Jesse Bonin adds Primitive Fire (V9) to the region. But don't look for it in any current guidebook. As with most bouldering sectors in this region, it's all under wraps. For now. Photo by Brad Perry	Ken Etzel gets crimpy on Xavier's Roof (V11), a Tony Lamiche problem at Dale's Camp in the Buttermilks in Bishop, California. The thin roof is technical but easier than the moves at the lip, where a variety of beta will work to snag the jug a few feet above. Photo by Sam Davis

Paul Nadler hanging around in the cooler evening air on the instant-classic Evilution (V12) at the Buttermilks in Bishop, California. Evilution was established by Jason Kehl in December 2002, at a towering 50+ feet. Photo by Tyler Roemer	Another Jason Kehl classic, in Joe's Valley, Worm Turns (V11) rides the very pinchable sandstone tufa out a steep roof in the back of a cave. Photo by Gustavo Moser

Jamie Gatchalian exploring New Horizons (5.12d) on the left side of River Wall at Button Rock Preserve, outside Lyons, Colorado. The overhanging, technical arete was first done by Bob Horan and is, to this day, one of the best short granite pitches in the state. Photo by Adam Bove	Kendra Lloyd-Knox from Portland, Oregon, goes full extension while working this picturesque problem, Bachelor (V4), on an isolated boulder in green and grand Squamish during a rare dry spell. Photo by Tyler Roemer

Caryn Courcier cuts loose on Choad Warrior (5.12c) at the Stratocaster Area in Red Rock Canyon, Nevada. Photo by Andrew Chasteen	Juan Rodriguez keepin' it casual as he heel hooks his way across the daunting underbelly of a sizable bridge in an undisclosed location of Denver, Colorado. Photo by Adam Bove

Ivo Penchev latches a less-than-stellar rib on Trent's Mom (V10) in Joe's Valley, Utah, on the way to an exciting and committing topout. Photo by Ryan Wedemeyer / ryanwedemeyer.smugmug.com	Jean-Pierre "Peewee" Ouellet bites down as Stingray (5.13d) bites back. The Joshua Tree testpiece was originally TR'ed by Mike Paul in 1988 and first led by Hidetaka Suzuki soon after. Photo by Andrew Burr / andrewburr.com

Chris Rolling maneuvers priceless Arkansas sandstone on Gold Line (5.12c) found at the Hudson crag. Photo by Lucas Marshall / lucasmarshall.com	Peter Vintoniv rides El Delfin (5.13a), Ventanas del Mascun, Rodellar, Spain. Photo by Andrew Burr / andrewburr.com

Chris Schulte opens another stunning project in Boulder Canyon, Colorado. The new line follows a logical extension of an existing V11, The Amendment, into dangerous and difficult territory to create The Right (V13). Photo by Andy Mann / andymann.com Click here to see a video of Chris bouldering in Fontainebleau, France, that captures the subtle technique adjustments Font requires. Boulders include Partage (V12) and Duel (V11).	Charlie Barrett climbs off into the sunset on The Mandala (V12) in the Buttermilks, California. Photo by Christian Pondella / christianpondella.com Charlie, from Tahoe, has made impressive ascents all over Bishop, including Evilution Direct (V11) and Spectre (V13).

Ned Fehally holds the swing on the crux section of the legendary Careless Torque, (Font 8a or V11), Stanage Plantation, Peak District UK. Photo by Richie Patterson / Wild Country Watch the video here of Ned Feehally, the current British Bouldering Champion, making a rare ascent of Careless Torque (Font 8a), on a blustery and cool day in September 2009. Feehally, who did the 6th, 7th or even 8th ascent of this awesome three star highball, actually managed to do the bottom crux section six times (which is the 8a bit) before unlocking the upper, 7b+ arête to claim another ascent.	Paige Claassen making quick work of The Web (5.13b), in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. Photo by Andy Mann / AndyMann.com Paige Claassen was raised amidst the snowy peaks of the Rocky Mountains and the rough granite pillars of Lumpy Ridge. Still, the 19-year-old CU-Boulder sophomore got her start on plastic. (“My dad tried to get me into other sports, and I sucked at everything,” she says. Read more.

FRY DAYS Adventures in Utah’s Remote, desolate, and radioactive Fry Canyon Fry Canyon, a tributary of the larger White Canyon, sits 300 miles southeast of Salt Lake City in San Juan County, a short drive from Lake Powell. It’s a slot canyon, 20 feet wide and 150 feet tall in points, with depths upwards of 500 feet in the broader sections. Shown here Adam Holmes reflects on Pier 49 (V5) at the Fry Canyon Boulders. Photo by Andrew Burr / AndrewBurr.com	Rent - $400 Home woody - $200 Subscription to Urban Climber - $25 Being so pumped you can hardly turn the pages... Priceless! Photo by Alex M. Brady / flickr.com/alex-bradyphoto

Photo: by Andrew Burr / andrewburr.com Luke Kretschmer knocks on Wisconsin Wood (V7), Zero Point Area, Ibex Utah. See more great photos in Urban Climber Mag's #29 - May 2009	Road Trippin' with Paul Robinson - Part 5 Photo by Joel Robinson It has been a long and crazy week full of many exciting adventures. Paul tried Dreamcatcher various times and was finally able to do the entire thing in 2 falls with the humid, hot temperatures relentlessly working against him. Singularity was deemed impossible due to the weather conditions so Paul tried some other classic lines in Squamish when he wasn't working Dreamcatcher. He completed When Harry Met Sally, Sharma's Jump, The Pain Below and Encore une fouis.

Photo: Meredith Rike Escape from New York - Part 1 My boyfriend and I were your typical young "urban climbers", more or less: living in Brooklyn, working in Manhattan, staying out too late on the weekends and trying to catch as many hours outdoors at the crag as we could. Nevertheless, we were never really that satisfied. One day, as we sat rehashing all the unpleasant details of our respective days (pushy commuters, long work hours, train problems, etc.), I had an idea: why didn’t we leave? Shown here: Kevin Riley bouldering some V-easies on the perfect, bulbous sandstone of the Stone Fort, Chattanooga, TN.	Video still courtesy of Rocky Mountain Highball Yama Studio, along with The American Alpine Club, prestented the new bouldering movie at the world premiere of Rocky Mountain Highball on April 27, 2009, at The Boulder Theater, Colorado. Shown here Andy Salo makes the first ascent of Edge of Oblivion (unrated), Glacier Gorge, RMNP, Colorado. CLICK HERE to watch the Rocky Mountain Highball Trailer

Photo: George Lucozzi / ASA Photographic The Heart of Steel Bouldering Competition On January 24th, 2009, the Boston Rock Gym hosted one of the most innovative and futuristic indoor climbing comps of the year. The Heart of Steel Bouldering Competition, master-minded by the talented Gavin Heverly and equally astute Mxim Zolotukhin, attracted over 100 competitors and the support of 26 sponsors. Read More Click here to watch videos from the comp by Taylor De Lench	Photo: Andrew Kornylak / AkornPhoto.com The Legend of Litz and the Lilly Boulders Let me tell you about the day I met James Litz. For two years, I’d made the Lilly Boulders, a collection of 25 sandstone blocs in Tennessee’s Obed Wild and Scenic River (a national park), my personal playground.Then one day, a gangly 125-pound high school kid from Kingsport, Tennessee, strolled into the Park Visitor Center... Shown here: Litz does the math on Chinese Arithmetic (V13) and, as usual, finds the solution.

Photo: Damon Corso / www.petrala.com FIRSTBURN - #27 > FEBRUARY 2009/MARCH 2009 Natasha Barnes bought her ticket in advance for this classic Yosemite thrill ride. Barnes nabbing the 5th female ascent of Thriller (V10), Yosmeite National Park, California.	Photo: Andrew Burr / andrewburr.com Cuba: Fear Me, Fear Me Not Cuba. This one small island nation stirs up a distinct mental picture in nearly everyone’s mind. We’ve all heard the stories, but it seems as though nobody has actually been there. It’s like the sweet forbidden fruit, so close (only 90 miles from Florida) and yet so far away. For Americans, there is one consistent theme in all discussions about traveling to Cuba: Fear. Read more.

Photo: John Evans / JohnEvansPhoto.com THE SOUND OF ROC TRIP Feature article from UCMAG #25 - OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2008 Words by Justin Roth - What is Roc Trip? Simply, it’s a gathering where climbers from many countries and even continents come together to explore a climbing area, and the members of the Petzl team converge to battle it out for the Ultimate Route (or routes, as the case may be — in Zillertal, Austria, there were more than a half dozen Ultimates up for grabs). READ MORE. Shown here: The Alpine scenery of Sundergrun in all its glory as some Roc Trippers work the start of Moonwalk (V6/7).	Photo: Tobias MacPhee / tobiasmacphee.com Inside the 2009 SCS Nationals Amidst a soggy evening snowstorm on Sunday, January 25, just outside Salt Lake City, the Momentum climbing gym bustled with energy — a crowd of hundreds gathered to witness America's top climbers vie for the 2009 SCS Adult National Championship. Shown here: Dave Graham on the way to a second place finish. Read more

Photo: Sean Naugle / blackowlmedia.com Austrian strong man, Bernd Zeugswetter, scoring the first ascent of the brilliant, and highball, Egret Arete, (V10 R/X) at the Lizard's Mouth near Santa Barbara, California. Bernd first spotted the toprope problem in 2006 as one of the main stand-out features at Lizard's Mouth and finally sent the tall problem on December 5th, 2008. For more info read the report by Paul Dusatko at sbbouldering.com	Photo: Lucas Marshall / lucasmarshall.com Chris Rolling with an early morning flash of The Mud, the Blood, and the Beer. Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Arkansas. Canon 20D. 46mm/ 1/800th/ f/4/ ISO 100

FIRST BURN #26 > DECEMBER 2008/JANUARY 2009 AFTER TEN TRIPS AND COUNTLESS ATTEMPTS, BEN RANDOLPH FINALLY SNAGS THE LAST MOVE ON TGV (5.13C), INDUSTRIAL WALL, ELDORADO SPRINGS, COLORADO. PHOTO: ANDY MANN	Photo: Lucas Marshall / lucasmarshall.com Chris Rolling on Sonic Youth — the signature 5.13a on the New River Wall in Clear Creek Canyon. It's hard to imagine that this popular sport route was aided over 40 years ago by Jim Logan, long before the canyon above Golden, Colorado, had any climber traffic.

David Hobbs wrestles Clubfoot (5.12b/c) in western Montana's Bitterroot Mountains. Everything from bouldering to alpine routes are found in these mountains that capture the hearts of climbers from every background. CLICK HERE to view a photo gallery of the Bitterroot's by Chouinard-Peck Photo: Dylan Chouinard-Peck / dylanchouinardpeckphotography.blogspot.com	Lee Cujes on the perfect limestone of Blockage Violet (5.12), Ceüse, France. Marten Blumen won the Grand Prize at the 2008 Banff Mountain Photography Competition for his Rim Lit Climber shot taken at Ceüse, France. He is known for his capacity and devotion to produce quality images in tough conditions. Check out more photos by Marten Blumen here.

A leap into new possibilities. When British super-climber “Strong” Steve McClure arrived at the first annual Bornholm Climbing & Deepwater Festival in Denmark, he knew nothing about the little granite island where the venue took place. Now he knows the value of the Danish currency (he shared first place in the DWS comp with Danish mega-talent Robin Vickery), the quality of the granite boulders, and the feeling of hitting Lake Opal’s waters from eleven meters up. Photo: Martin Paldan / martinpaldan.com	Evening slab slapping on Arkansas's bullet sandstone during the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell, Spetember, 2008. Photo info: Canon 5D, Sigma 24-70 f/2.8. Nikon SB-28 fired via Pocketwizards. ISO 640 / f/2.8 / 1/40th Photo: Lucas Marshall / LucasMarshall.com

Jason Kehl sending the steep Sharma Arete (V10), Tramway Boulders, Calofornia Photo: DAMON CORSO / www.petrala.com and Jacinda Hunter on The Wind Below (V8), Joe's Valley, Utah. Photo: RYAN WEDEMEYER / ryanwedemeyer.smugmug.com	Australian mad genius of climbing Ben Cossey piecing together one of the super-long roof problems (take your pick: Cave Woman, V12; Cave Rave, V13; Eve Réve, V14; Wheel of Life, V16) in the Grampians’ Hollow Mountain Cave, Australia. Photo: Justin Roth

Matt Lloyd takes an early lap on Super Crack of the Denver, 5.10+, at 6 in the morn. To descend this classic brick crack safely you must rappel from the penthouse railing and clean up before rush hour. UC Issue #14. Photo: Daniel Gambino	Joe Kinder styles the Millennium Boulder classic Ghost Dance (V6–V9 dependng on where you start), Matthew Winters Park, near Morrison Colorado. Photo: Brian Solano www.bsproductions.us

Alan Moore climbing a rare Mammut urbanensus, in Technicolor. UC Issue #20. Photo: Jacob Stern	Eliminating the sit-start, Magdalyn Wagner snags the sloper on Shingles Standup on the highly textured and aptly named Tiger Stripe Boulder. From the article Big Little Contrast, UC Photo Annual 2007. Photo: Jansen Gunderson

Daniel Woods loving the horizontal pleasures of Coeur de Lyon (V14). Hueco Tanks, Texas. UC Issue #17. Photo: Alex Messenger	Martin Oberweger gets one over on Jumping Jack Flash (7c). Ewige Jagdgründe. Zillertal, Austria. UC Issue #20. Photo: Bernardo Giménez

Landon Bassett finding shelter, and a new project, in the “Hobo Cave”. Denver, Colorado. UC Issue #19. Photo: Tony Czech and Mike Sakas	Johnny Landry en route to Flagstaff. From the article Hobouldering, UC #11. Photo: Aaron Black

Chris Sharma on the FA of the Dreamcatcher 5.14d, Squamish, BC Photo by Luke Laeser	Party below the dam at the 2008 New River Rendezvous, WV Photo by Lee Means

Pyromania,The Needles, California Photo by Nathaniel Walker	The Orb (V8) Rocktown GA Photo by Luke Laeser

Yosmeite Valley, California Photo by Nathaniel Walker	Climbing in Tuolumne Meadows Photo by Nathaniel Walker

Snow at the Bridger Jacks, Indian Creek, Utah Photo by Nathaniel Walker	Sunset at Joshua Tree National Park, California Photo by Nathaniel Walker

The Summit of El Capitan, Yosmeite, California Photo by Nathaniel Walker	Climber at the Cat Wall, Indian Creek, Utah Photo by Nathaniel Walker

The Hüber Brothers speed-climbing on El Cap Oscar Winning Director Pepe Danquart Takes Viewers to Astonishing New Heights in TO THE LIMIT — WATCH THE TRAILER	Sunrise at the City of Rocks, Idaho Photo by Nathaniel Walker

Brendan Nicholson having it all to himself in Yosemite National Park, CA. UC Issue #21 Photo: Tim Kemple	The Hüber Brothers speed-climbing on El Cap Oscar Winning Director Pepe Danquart Takes Viewers to Astonishing New Heights in TO THE LIMIT — WATCH THE TRAILER

Funny thing about climbers.... they will climb everything... Photo: DAMON CORSO www.petrala.com	Alex Hüber in Patagonia Oscar Winning Director Pepe Danquart Takes Viewers to Astonishing New Heights in TO THE LIMIT — WATCH THE TRAILER

High-balling in So-Cal. Photo: DAMON CORSO www.petrala.com	Capturing action with the Holga is purely a matter of luck. Since you are the camera's motor, you have to wind the film, set up, focus and make those one or two shots really count. From the article New Zealand and The Art of Unphotography, UC #12. Photo: Jesse Arneson

Christina Pilo sandstone grippin' on an unknown V6 roof in the magical forest of Albarracín, Spain. Photo: DAMON CORSO www.petrala.com	Summer is slipping away — you'd better get after it! Photo: DAMON CORSO www.petrala.com

UCMAG's PHOTOPOST Upload to a grip of categories like: Bouldering, Sport Climbing, Buildering, Trad Climbing, Climber Art, Down For Life, Thursday Session, Meat Locker, The 411, Plastic Paradise ... you get the idea. Shown here: Isarna Pacher (aka UglyUglyDucky) boulders on an unknown V3 on the Homecoming Boulder at Rumbling Bald, North Carolina.	Rob Pizem trying to hang the famous elephant skin of Fontainebleau, France. Photo: Cory French

Photo: Kevin Riley Escape from New York - Part 2 We had been in Tennessee for several days at this point, exploring the many varied ways to climb rock in the Chattanooga area. After our day bouldering at Little Rock City and a much needed rest day, we headed straight out to the Tennessee Wall. The T-Wall is a convenient 30 minutes or so from Chattanooga, but far enough outside the city to feel remote. It features gorgeous views of the Tennessee River Gorge from the base of the crag, and even better views when you get up on a route. Shown here a climber works his way up the perfect splitter, Golden Locks, a canidate for one of the best 5.8s at T-Wall. Read part 1	Klaus Isele of Austria snags the perfectest pocket in all of Australia. The climb: Klem Loskot's Rave Heart (V8), Hollow Mountain Cave, Grampians. Photo: Justin Roth

Lee Runyon contemplates the next move, adrift in a sea of holds at Red Barn Climbing (RBC) — regarded by many as the premier rock climbing gym in Western New York and among the best in the Northeast. The 100 year old Red Barn, located on the Rochester Institute of Technology campus, is primarily a bouldering gym with 5000 square feet of climbing surface spread over three huge caves. Photo by Jacquelyn Allen	UCMAG's PHOTOPOST Upload to a grip of categories like: Bouldering, Sport Climbing, Buildering, Trad Climbing, Climber Art, Down For Life, Thursday Session, Meat Locker, The 411, Plastic Paradise ... you get the idea.. it's all there. Shown here: UNCclimber has captured and morphed himself on the juggalicious Bookshelf Traverse at Grandmother Mountain, Bookshelf Boulder near Boone, North Carolina.

	UCMAG's PHOTOPOST Photo of the Month Winner - Aug/Sept 2009 - # 31 Paul Trendler (climber), Ben Nadler (Spotter), Indie (the dog) on the Red Boulder Arete on a beautiful mid-March early spring day along the Deschutes River, outside Bend, Oregon. Photo by Tyler Roemer / TylerRoemer.com & TylerRoemer.blogspot.com

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