2011 Spot Bouldering Series: Highballs and Highlines
Photos by Alton Richardson - Highballs and Highlines was the theme for the third comp of the 2011 Spot Bouldering Series at The Spot Gym in Boulder, Colorado. Slackliners impressed the crowd by doing yoga positions, spins and handstands, attempted back flips, and more. In the climbing comp, the men's finals problem involved large moves to slopey pinches and a full-on dyno. The women's final had dynamic movement in the middle negotiated by campusing or reachy hand-foot matches, leading to a static upper crux with big lock-offs on pinches. To see the results, click here.
Climbing Staff Trip: Shelf Road, Colorado
Photos by Alton Richardson - In November, the staff of Climbing managed to escape deadline stress for two days to take a trip down to Shelf Road near Canon City, Colorado. Clear blue skies, temperatures in the 50s, and a laid-back atmosphere accompanied the team while they played around on Shelf's sharp limestone pockets. Here, art intern Alton Richardson stretches his photographer legs to shoot editor in chief Dougald MacDonald, associate editor Amanda Fox, gear editor Julie Ellison, contributing writer Laura Snider, and Urban Climber editor in chief Andrew Tower while they climb, test gear, relax in the sun, and enjoy two days off from the office.
Jim Thornburg's Stone Mountains - A Sneak Peek
Photos by Jim Thornburg - Stone Mountains: North America's Best Crags is photographer Jim Thornburg's magnum opus: an eight-pound, large format, 320-page photography book that's been 20 years in the making. The images here are a teaser picked from more than 500 featured in the book. Thirty-five favorite destinations are featured:Joshua Tree, the Shawangunks, Potrero Chico, Squamish, the Red River Gorge, and Indian Creek, to name a few. See more at jimthornburg.com/book.html
Lead World Cup - Boulder, Colorado
Photos by Alton Richardson - More than 1,300 people packed into Movement Climbing + Fitness on Sunday, October 9, to watch the Lead World Cup in Boulder, Colorado. Jakob Schubert and Johanna Ernst of Austria won, each having made the clear high point on their respective routes (no one finished the routes). Sachi Amma of Japan and Mina Markovic (who was first going into finals) placed second, followed by Romain Desgranges of France and Momoka Oda of Japan. This is Schubert's sixth consecutive win in a Lead World Cup. Our own Sasha DiGiulian and Matty Hong were the sole Americans to make finals, and each climbed well, placing seventh and sixth, respectively. To read the full report, click here.
Rock Climbing in Greenland
Photos by Toni Lamprecht - The south of Greenland offers an incredible wealth of technical rock climbing on big granite faces, some of them directly over the ocean. Tasermiut Fjord has seen most of the climbing activity of the last decades, but some climbers have ventured further south to climb on the more remote islands and fjords around the Inuit settlement of Aappilattoq. Huge routes have gone up in the Torssukatak Fjord, on Pamiagdluk Island and on other walls in the vicinity. There is still a staggering potential for rock climbing in this area.
Spot Bouldering Series 7: The Gun Show
Photos by Alton Richardson - The Spot Bouldering Gym's seventh annual Spot Bouldering Series: The Gun Show went down this past weekend. Aside from the climbing, the comp offered a barbeque sponsored by La Sportiva and Native Eyewear, a dunk tank (where climbers like Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou and Jon Cardwell participated), a huge raffle, free Avery beer, and a pull-up contest. Nina Williams took first place in women's open, with Alex Manikowski winning men's open. See full results here.
Reel Rock World Premiere 2011
Photos by Greg Mionske - The sixth annual REEL ROCK world premiere has come and conquered! Selling out two shows, with a crowd of 1,800 people through the door. Thanks to all the local sponsors: Agloves, The Spot Bouldering Gym, Boulder Rock Club, Movement Climbing and Fitness, First Bank, CU Alpine Club, and the Colorado Daily. And not to mention our National Sponsors: The North Face, Windstopper, Petzl, Climbing Magazine, Urban Climber Magazine, EVOLV, Sterling Ropes, and Goal0. Be sure to check out the REEL ROCK tour schedule at reelrocktour.com.
2011 Bouldering World Cup: Munich
Photos by Marco Kost - The 2011 Boulder World Cup season wrapped up last weekend in Munich, Germany. Slovenian Mina Markovic and Russian Dmitry Sharafutdinov ended up in first place, but Austrians Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr took the gold for the overall rankings. Germany's Juliane Wurm and Stöhr finished second and third, with Russia's Rustam Gelmanov and Alexey Rubtsov taking silver and bronze for the men. American Alex Puccio finished in a tie for eighth, but placed third overall, becoming the first American to medal in the overall rankings in Boulder World Cup history. Click here for more details.
Visual 49
Six photo essays from our favorite shooters: John Palmer, Damon Corso, Dan Lubbers, Nathan Smith, and Keith Ladzinski submit some of their best work for Urban Climber's Photo Annual. See portraits of professional climbers, bouldering in the snow, and shots from Utah, New Zealand, Yosemite, Tennessee, Texas, and more!
2011 Arco World Championships: Bouldering
Photos by Anna Piunova / arco2011.it - Austrian Anna Stöhr and Russian Dmitry Sharafutdinov grabbed the gold medals at the 2011 World Championships in Arco, Italy, in the bouldering competition. Sasha DiGiulian and Czech climber Adam Ondra placed second, followed by Germany's Juliane Wurm and Russia's Rustam Gelmanov in third. More than 130 men entered the competition, with almost 70 in the women's division. Read a more detailed report here.
Adventures NYC: EMS Pro Bouldering Comp in Central Park
Photos by Kate Lacey - More than 20,000 spectators gathered to watch Angie Payne and Vasya Vorotnikov take top honors at the Eastern Mountain Sports Pro Tour in Central Park, New York City, this past weekend. This was the second event of the 2011 UBC Pro tour—the third and final event will take place at the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show in Salt Lake City in August.
Payne and Sasha DiGiulian (who placed second) flashed all three finals problems, but Payne's performance in semi-finals clinched her win. Lizzy Asher and Francesca Metcalf were third and fourth.
Ty Landman and Mike Feinberg placed second and third. See more info and full results here.
Las Vegas Limestone - Spring 2011
Photos by Andy Mann - Jonathan Siegrist: While many vacations to Las Vegas are characterized by wicked tales of debauchery that end with rehabilitating hangovers, an unwanted marriage, or bankruptcy, I envisioned something a little different for my season-long retreat to Sin City. I needed a things that my hometown of Boulder, Colorado, simply couldn't deliver in the winter months: reliable sunshine and some of the best modern sport climbing in the nation.
Visual #48 - May 2011
Black Hills, South Dakota - Unknown or ignored by most climbers, South
Dakota climbing is considered some of the best in the
Midwest, although information can be scarce. Early
this summer, a new guidebook, Black Hills Limestone
Rock Climbing (blackhillsclimbingguide.com), will be
published. The author, Mike Cronin, was nice enough
to share info from his book, which will include fullcolor
pages, maps, and 718 routes in Victoria Canyon,
Bethlehem, Falling Rock, and Spearfish Canyon.
2011 Vail Bouldering World Cup
Photos by Ben Fullerton - For the fourth consecutive year, the Teva Mountain Games hosted an IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado. But for the first year, no American stood atop the podium. Austrians Anna Stöhr and Kilian Fischhuber won the gold medals, with Alex Puccio and France's Melissa Le Neve taking silver and bronze. Russia's Dmitry Sharafutdinov and German Jonas Baumann took second and third in the men's comp. Read the full write-up here.
The Magic of Kalymnos
Photos by Nikolaos Smalios / climbkalymnos.com- People always ask about my favorite Mediterranean island to visit for climbing, and I’ve given the same answer — Kalymnos, Greece — so many times that it’s become automatic. But when a place is so clearly climber Eden, what else is there to say? Kaly’s quiet, largely untouristed west coast, home to most of the climbing, has a small strip of villages sandwiched between calm green and cerulean waters and mythical limestone scarps with hundreds of jaw-dropper, rope-stretcher slab, wall, tufa, and crazy 3-D stalactite-cave climbs from 5.6 to 5.14+... Read the rest here.
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