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![]() Shuford's BBQ, at the foot of Signal Mountain, should be a part of every climber's visit to Chattanooga, TN. Photo by Kevin Riley. See a photo gallery from this trip.
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![]() Meredith follows the super classic Alpha Omega (5.10b), Sunset Park, Lookout Mountain, TN. Photo by Kevin Riley
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Living in the jungle of New York I would often find myself jolted awake in the middle of the night by something I could only generally describe as a panic attack. I would jerk upright (even jump out of bed on occasion) and perhaps yelp out something nonsensical before fully coming to my wits and realizing that, despite my surest conviction, I was indeed still alive, groggy and sweating profusely in my over-heated Brooklyn apartment. During those nights when I couldn’t sleep, I would lie on my back and watch the light from the basement stoop across the street turn on and off at random intervals, non-stop, all night long.
I first noticed this phenomenon one restless, anxious night, reflected off the darkened ceiling. I pointed it out to my boyfriend the next morning, and from then on it became a frequent activity of ours to watch the porch light and speculate about its origins. Perhaps it was a secret signal among the neighborhood kids or something drug related, involving Morse code and runners stationed on each corner of our block. One night, in an a dramatic twist, the cops showed up around 4am and quietly crept in and out of the suspicious stoop. We stayed up for the next hour speculating about mob schemes and corrupt cops and watching the light blithely flicker on and off on and off.
![]() Photo by Kevin Riley
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In our first proper night camping, I thought about that light and that room and that life. How different it was to be curled in my sleeping bag at the base of a cliff, nestled against the Cumberland Plateau, my entire body pleasantly exhausted from a full day of climbing. I could hear the Tennessee River trickling gently below us, and outside our tent the only light around came from the embers of our fire, which glowed warm and dull as I drifted off to sleep. When I awoke in the grey morning light, I thought again about the flickering light and mentally scanned my body for any anxiety that might be lurkingsomething I often did before hauling myself out of bed after a sleepless night for another long, day at the office beneath the miserable fluorescent lights. This morning, like all the others since we started our trip, I found myself thoroughly relaxed so much so that I couldn’t focus long on this activity, and soon my mind drifted to the sound of the birds calling out the start of their day and the awesome climbing in store for us.
We had been in Tennessee for several days at this point, exploring the many varied ways to climb rock in the Chattanooga area. After our day bouldering at Little Rock City and a much needed rest day, we headed straight out to the Tennessee Wall.
The T-Wall is a convenient 30 minutes or so from Chattanooga, but far enough outside the city to feel remote. It features gorgeous views of the Tennessee River Gorge from the base of the crag, and even better views when you get up on a route. We were able to secure a great camping spot, right by the small parking lot for the crag, which made the morning commute from our tent to the approach trail about a minute. Can’t beat waking up at the crag. After a steep but thankfully short hike in, you come to the wall itself, which is made up of a very long band of the perfect, angular, bright orange sandstone I am so growing to love. The approach trail ends at a waterfall that arcs gracefully down from the cliff summit, and from that point you can go either North or South to get down to business.
![]() Climber on Golden Locks (5.8+), a canidate for one of the finest 5.8s at the Tennessee Wall. Photo by Kevin Riley
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p>According to the locals, T-Wall South has had some new route development over the last few years. It is a great spot for folks who want to avoid the long lines and crowds that can develop around popular routes on T-Wall North on weekends and holidays.
Nevertheless, after a sort of ill-fated effort to find an elusive 5’8 multi-pitch route on T-Wall South (we had a lovely hike, found a refreshing waterfall to cool off in, but managed to cruise right past the route, somehow…), we spent the majority of our 3 days at T-Wall North.
The North portion of the wall is the more historic section, and features scores of super-classic single pitch trad routes, ranging from moderate 7s, 8s, and 9s to more strenuous roofs and splitters, all showcasing Southern crack climbing at its finest. In fact, pretty much the entire North side is made up of long, continuous crack systems that have you hand jamming, finger locking, laying back, and smearing your way up in consistently sustained and interesting climbing. After several days at the wall I had to start taping my poor, inexperienced knuckles, which had become bloodied from the effort. Oh, but it was worth it! And I think on the last few days I really started getting the hang of it.
![]() Meredith Rike follows the long and fun dihedral Passages (5.8). Photo by Kevin Riley.
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For lucky Chattanooga climbers, the T-Wall is only one area out of many local areas where people can go to get their fix. One morning we went to check out another spot, Sunset Rock, reportedly the oldest climbing area in the city, with route development dating back to the 1950s. And when I say in the city, I mean quite literally in the city. Only a few minutes drive out of Chatty’s cute little downtown area through the suburbs of Lookout Mountain (a historical site in its own right), brings you to a small parking lot and a neatly manicured path that leads right to the base of a hundred or so trad and mixed routes, all overlooking the city. How convenient it must be to live literally around the corner from neat outdoor climbing. Another ‘urban climbing’ moment, I suppose...
All and all, Tennessee was a highlight in our trip. The climbing was excellent and so much fun. Plus, Chattanooga is a mellow, friendly city and we found at least one bar that had ridiculously cheap pitchers of beer and an outside deck with a view of the sunset over the river and Signal and Lookout Mountains. Also, for hungry climbers coming to and from the T-Wall, check out Shuford’s BBQno frills, Tennessee barbeque at its delicious and derelict best, located on Signal Mountain Road at the turn to Suck Creek Road, on your way up to the crag. Finally, special thanks this time going out to Luke Laeser and the Laeser family for being helpful, charming hosts!
As our time in Tennessee drew to a close, we decided to head to Arkansas, to check out the scene at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, a guest ranch located near Jasper with a bunch of sport climbing located all over the grounds. Now, readers, I’m not sure how familiar you are with middle America as such, but Arkansas was an interesting place for us former city folks. Little did we know, when we started out coasting west on our golden, sunny Tennessee high, that bad weather was creeping in and plotting to strand us indoors and inert in Small Town, America.
Those details and more, on our next installment! Stay tuned, friends….
See a photo gallery from this trip.