Shadow Ayala unlocking Cell Block (5.12c), at the Midnight Surf crag, Red River Gorge, KY. Photo by Dan Lubbers / DanLubbers.com
Shadow Ayala unlocking Cell Block (5.12c), at the Midnight Surf crag, Red River Gorge, KY. Photo by Dan Lubbers / DanLubbers.com
METAL, HEART, AND STONE //
Sponsors: Project Holds, Asana
Local area(s): Boat Rock, Little River
Canyon, Rocktown, Red River Gorge
Proudest sends:TunaTown (5.12d), RRG;
Bionic Lab Rats (direct sit; v8), Rocktown, GA;
onsight soloing spree last summer at
Lover’s Leap, CA
When I first met
the Berkeley, California
native Shadow
Ayala, it felt
like I was encountering
a long-lost friend. A nomad, the
37-year-old has been on the road since
he was 8. He found climbing six years
ago, adding it to his roster of interests/
occupations, like touring the states in a
metal band and shooting photographs
as though it was a life’s journal. Shadow
now makes his (temporary) home in the
Southern jungles surrounding Miguel’s
Pizza (where he works “sling the sweet
slices,” he says), at the Red River Gorge.
Most late afternoons, you can find
him chilling with his dog, Sumo, and
conversing around the campfire. In the
mornings, he wakes early and heads
out in search of new stone, or to work a
project in the Red’s big, steep, sandstone
"hollers."
Recently, you’ve been working on musical scores for Victory Productions climbing videos. How long have you been making music, and what got you started? I’ve been writing music ever since I was a little kid. There was always a piano in my family, and my parents gave me a Casio keyboard with drum pads when I was 12. Before that, I’d rock the drums on couch pillows while watching TV.
I heard you were part of a heavy metal band called Sinisstar, which toured with various mainstream bands around the turn of the millennium. Tell us a little bit about this. . . . Sinisstar landed a song as an unsigned band on the Heavy Metal 2000 movie soundtrack. Our achievement started an insane bidding war within the industry. Sinisstar eventually signed with a major label for an astronomical amount of money and made a record called “Future Shock.” While touring for a few years, we had to fight a legal battle with the label to have “Future Shock” released. Without love from the label, Sinisstar eventually parted ways and the band was dropped. There has been talk of a doom project with my homeboy Edgemont in the future.
Are your tattoos and piercings for stage
presence or personal reasons? Tattoos have
always been kinda personal to me. You just
don’t ask people about their tattoos in the
neighborhood that I grew up in. It’s kinda
like pointing out someone’s flaw, if they
have one. I removed all my piercings while
working as a bike messenger, so I could slip
through the metal detectors of the federal and state buildings without stopping. I never
put them back in. Image has never been very
important to me. I’ve been more focused on
being in tune with the self, the moment, and
overcoming my weaknesses. The outside may
be nice to look at, but
the inside is where the
integrity lives.
What initially got you
into the climbing scene
and what’s kept you
in it? Just flat out fun,
man! I always joke that
it’s such a rough life, but
then I crack a smile ‘cause
I know I’m living the
dream. Even if the dream
is being a climbing bum,
writing songs on the
laptop in the middle of
the boulder field.
What do you like most
about the climbing
community (besides climbing)? It’s like a
giant mosh pit if you fall down, there’s
usually someone there to pick your ass back
up again. I also like how people are steering
away from the names and numbers garble
these days. It’s incredibly nice when your
hangin’ out with a group of climbers and no
one is talking about climbing.
You’ve had some images published in
UCMag in the past are you still into
photography? Sniper mode is the dope jam!
I am a little bummed right now ‘cause I had
to sell my photo rig. I ran out of dinero while
I was in the city and had to fetch that pretty
penny to make it to the Red. One day I’ll have
a camera again, but I seem to have a lot of
music opportunities right now to keep me
busy, so it’s all good.