NO, THE OTHER ALEX JOHNSON //

You may have heard the name Alex Johnson before, but chances are you’re only getting half the story. In the town of Downer’s Grove, Illinois, there’s a hardcrankin’ high school senior who heaps still more credit on the already well-repped “Alex Johnson” name. This Alex Johnson, however, competes on the male side of the circuit. After discovering climbing at a YMCA in 2002, Johnson moved quickly onto the competition scene. Scoring second in his fi rst comp was major motivation, and since then, he’s become a serious competitor, picking up sponsors and making it to the national level in roped diffi culty, speed-climbing, and bouldering comps. He’s also climbed 5.13d, thanks in part to an intensive training routine he regularly performs in his basement. Between school, training, and babysitting his two younger brothers, Johnson took a moment to talk with us about his life and climbing.

How do you train?
I used to go to the local gym, Vertical Endeavors, which is like 15 minutes away. But I can’t set there, so it’s kind of hard to train, because the routes [don’t get much harder than] 5.12a. So I built a home wall in my grandma’s garage last December, and I pretty much climb there all the time now. And I train in my basement on my Metolius hangboard. That’s probably where I spend the most time — five to six days a week.

The female Alex Johnson told us to ask you why you wear socks under your climbing shoes.
People have been asking me that for a long time now. To be honest, I’ve always found socks to be more comfortable. Plus, my shoes always smell really nice.

How do you to juggle climbing and your other obligations?
It gets a little diffi cult sometimes, but for the most part, I can manage. I’ll have some late nights, because I’ll come home from school and have a few hours of homework, and then I’ll climb for, like, four hours. During the school year, I end up getting to bed pretty late.

Do you work, too?
I work at my mom’s driving school.

What do the other kids in school think of your climbing? Do they get it?
No one in my school gets what climbing is about. Whenever I tell people I climb, the response is always, “So it’s whoever gets to the top first?” I don’t know why they all think it’s about speed. After I tell them what climbing’s about, and show them a few videos, they’re always impressed and want to know when I can take them to try it.

What are your goals as a climber?
I’d like to motivate other people to rock climb. I’d definitely like to see my younger brothers get into climbing, so I’ll probably be a coach for them. My goal as a climber is to climb in the 5.14 range. I haven’t broken into that range yet, but I hope to this year.

Do you partake in other sports? Or is climbing your big thing?
Climbing is definitely my No. 1 sport, followed by parkour and jujitsu.

What’s the climbing scene like in Illinois?
In the Chicagoland area, the community is rather small. There are a few strong climbers out here, but nothing compared to areas where there’s magnificent rock all around.

Have you traveled much for climbing?
Yeah. I’m kind of an add-on to the Chicago climbing team, so I go with them climbing outside before Nationals. We went climbing at Smith Rock, Oregon. We went to Canada. I went to Rifl e and a few other places in Colorado. And this year, we went to American Fork and Maple Canyon in Utah. So that’s where I get most of my outdoor climbing, and a few times I’ve been down to the Red with friends from the local gym.

Has anyone ever confused you with that other Alex Johnson?
My first year competing, people were always confused as to why she was climbing in the Men’s division.

Are you taller than other Alex Johnson?
I really don’t know; I think we might be about the same.

Who do you think would win in a climb-off? You or other Alex Johnson? Of course I would win a climb-off. Ha ha! Actually, I really don’t know — she’s a super strong climber.

Anything to add?
I’d like to give a shout out to my mom, for helping me with all my climbing and organizing, and making it all possible.