Young Guns 2012 While sending your age is still an amazing feat (V27, here I come), it’s not the rarity it once was. Take Margo Hayes. This Coloradan has already sent up to 5.13c and onsighted V9, and she’s a mere 13 years old. And little mutants like Margo are pushing standards all over the country, as we quickly discovered in our annual survey of the up-and-comers and already-diesel athletes making their way through the grades and onto podiums. Here, see why today’s youths are more impressive than ever.
Contents #55 - February/March 2012 COVER: Andrea Maruna goes full reach in perfect fall conditions on Hammerland (5.13d), Frankfels, Austria. Photo by Claudia Ziegler. Feature story: Urby Awards: Be impressed with your fellow climbers. They kicked ass in 2011. Used and Abused: Stickclips, rope bags, fleece jackets, crash pads, and more. Body Shop: Your chest is key to full upper-body strength. Unearthed: Trevor Turmelle: Positivity goes a long way.
Edelrid Caddy Leave it to the Germans to induce a flat-out “Why didn’t I think of that?!” moment in something as simple as a rope bag. The Edelrid Caddy will have you kicking yourself in the pants because of its pure simplicity-cum-effectiveness. (Seriously, you could have made millions.) It throws conventional rope-bag designs to the wind by adding a sort of receiving pod in the middle of the rope tarp. The rope lays out on the tarp as usual, but when you want to put it away, you pick up all four corner handles, snap your wrist, and—blammo!—the rope is tucked neatly in the center pot.
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Brian Hedrick on The Swarm (V14) Video by QuetzalClimb Productions - In Brian "Cuz" Hedrick's recent trip to Bishop, he crushed his latest project The Swarm (V14) after completing recent projects Mandala SDS (V13), Maze of Death (V12), and Yabo Roof (V12). "Projecting is a new endeavor for me. I used to focus on things I knew I could do quickly. With this departure, I think I've become a much better climber, and I'm excited to see where I progress to." —Cuz. His current projects are Goldfish (V14) and Dominated (V13).
Michele Caminati Climbs Ultimo dei Moicani (V14) Video by Michele Caminati - Michele Caminati recently completed a project at Amiata in Tuscany, Italy, calling it Ultimo dei Moicani ("Last of the Mohicans") and grading it V14. Planetmountain.com has a nice detailed report in English by Caminati about his experience with this boulder. An excerpt: "Giving the problem a grade is no mean task, especially since the only really difficult move is that long dyno from the pocket to the crimp, where the key to success is pushing off the footholds properly..."
Body Shop 54 - Pump-be-gone Massage techniques to keep you climbing - Everyone does it. It’s totally natural and healthy, but it still garners funny looks. You get the pump, go for a one-arm rest, and shake your arm silly. Does it really work, or is it just psychosomatic? The answer is yes, it does work—a little—but there are better options. We talked to Erik Cumming, a registered massage therapist and owner of Colorado-based Grip Massage, who has worked almost exclusively with climbers for three years on the best ways to prevent or reduce your pump and climb on.
Show Us Your Woody is sponsored by theDetroit Rock Climbing Company (thedrcc.com)
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Contents #55 - February/March 2012
Edelrid Caddy
Brian Hedrick on The Swarm (V14)
Michele Caminati Climbs Ultimo dei Moicani (V14)
Body Shop 54 - Pump-be-gone
