 CONTENTS #30 > PHOTO ANNUAL 2009
FEATURES IN THIS ISSUE: Visual - A tour de force of climbing shots from around the globe; Fry Days - Adventure climbing in Utah’s super-remote Fry Canyon; The Dark Side - Fade to black; Good as Gold - Badass bouldering in Colorado’s Eldorado Canyon and environs; DEPARTMENTS: Entourage - The cast and crew; Drive - Brad Weaver and Whitney Hoose; Workshop - Do it for Future You
 COIN #30 - Millet Madness
There just ain’t enough style at the crags these days. How many times have you found yourself at the boulders with a bunch of shirtless dudes wearing rolled-up jeans? Weaksauce. Leave it to the French to bring a little je ne sais quoi to the world of climbing fashion. Two winners will score a stylish, high-performance summer-craggin’ package from Millet (milletusa.com), which includes: a Mada Roc Shirt SS, Session Pant, Van 30 crag pack, and a Cristal 60m rope. Allez!
 2009 International Climbers’ Festival
The International Climbers’ Festival is back for a 16th straight year! The 2009 Festival will be held this July 8th - 12th in Lander, Wyoming. The ICF is a non-profit and is connected to three local Lander climbing initiatives: the Jim Ratz Memorial Scholarship, the Todd Skinner Foundation and BARF (the local Bolt and Anchor Replacement Fund).
 2009 REEL ROCK FILMMAKING COMPETITION
The 2009 REEL ROCK Film Tour, presented by Sender Films and Big UP Productions is now accepting submissions for the 2009 REEL ROCK FILMMAKING COMPETITION. If you have a camera, computer, and a fresh idea, one of the short REEL ROCK ‘09 films could be yours! Submission deadline is July 20, 2009!
 2009 Squamish Mountain Festival
August 12–16, 2009 in Squamish, BC - Returning for 2009, the 3rd annual Squamish Mountain Festival is ramping up to draw in locals and visitors alike. Focusing mainly on climbing and its surrounding culture the event also encompasses complementary activities such as yoga, a themed party and its first ever trail run. There is a film festival and photography contest (Steep Shot Photo Shoot Out), educational climbing clinics and a Dyno competition, where climbers from around the globe will compete for the biggest jump.
 Pine Mountain Pulldown
California's Only Outdoor Climbing Competition & Festival Returns September 11-13, 2009 - This year’s festival held in Los Padres National Forest for a second year promises to be the West Coast’s greenest climbing event. There’s something for everyone at the Pulldown, but bouldering is the main attraction here.
Sustainability: Outdoor companies pursue two-pronged strategy
7/08/09 - Sustainability and its necessity have become a hot topic within the outdoor industry. In fact, it has become more than a point of discussion; it has actually spurred on change.
Singer-Songwriter Misty Murphy Releases “Sean’s Song” to Honor HERA Foundation Founder Sean Patrick
7/08/09 - Songwriters use lyrics and music to inspire hope, to empower the masses, or to pay honor to those who have passed.
SLO Op Bouldering Gym
6/30/09 - After raising over $55,000 from a grassroots collection of broke college students and pillars of the San Luis Obispo community, SLO-Op Climbing (the country’s first non-profit bouldering gym) is breaking ground this week at 289 Prado Road.
HERA Women’s Cancer Foundation Announces New Board Members
6/30/09 - The HERA Women’s Cancer Foundation (Health, Empowerment, Research, Awareness), a non-profit foundation that raises funding for ovarian cancer research and awareness initiatives, announces Samantha Lockwood, 35, of Philadelphia and James Nice, 41, of Los Angeles as new board members.
 AUSTIN L. MANNING
I finish up the didactic portion of grad school this spring and then move to Denver for an administrative residency. I’m there for at least a year and then, after that, who knows. Hopefully to a C-suite position in a hospital with some time to get outside and climb. This past fall I also attempted my first big mountain and had a blast. I certainly foresee more alpine climbing in my future.
 FINISH HOLD - #29 - In Teddy’s Words
As an ex-competitive fighter, a new climber, and a CrossFitter, I hold on to the following words as a mantra for why I do what I do — because when it comes down to it, it’s all about the effort. I can't claim these words to be mine — Theodore Roosevelt said this:
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 Memorial Service for Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, and Wade Johnson
A memorial service celebrating the lives of Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, and Wade Johnson will be held this Saturday, July 11, 2009 at the Boulder Theater (2032 14th Street), in Boulder, CO. Doors open at 1:00PM, service starts at 2:00 and will last until about 3:30.
 Frédéric Moix on Underground Paradise (V14)
Frédéric Moix making the 3rd ascent of the 40-move Underground Paradise (V14), in September 2008, on the famed Barme de la fée d’Aron boulder in Fionnay, Switzerland. Shepherds often sheltered under the barme which is also home to Scarred for Life (V14) and a V15+ project. “You get crazy light around the summer solstice,” says Moix. “It comes through one cave, lighting the place in a particular way for a few minutes only. It’s a big ray of light at the center of the boulder, with a reflection all around.”
 John Bachar - July 2008 Interview Extract
Video by Dave Gill / SteepMedia.com - John Bachar fell while soloing at the Dike Wall near Mammoth Lakes in California on July 5th 2009. We met up with John in July 2008, in Mammoth Lakes, California and filmed a great interview with him. Here is some of that interview, which hopefully shows some of John's mindset, ethos and humor. Our deepest condolences go out to John's family and friends.
 WORKSHOP - #30 - GLASS CLASS
Six pro shooters drop photo knowledge for your domepiece - A lot of new shooters fail to ‘shoot through the play,’ as we call it in sports photography. You'll see someone snap a photo, get up, and stare at the back of his camera. Meanwhile, the climber goes flying off the climb and does three flips but the photographer misses the shot because he doesn’t have his camera up.
 INJURED RESERVE - June 2009
What do pro climbers do when injury sidelines them? - Injuries can be a big mixed blessing for climbers, especially the super-obsessed, pro-grade, variety. On the one hand, the injured climber can’t climb, which is obviously very frustrating. On the other, with no way to follow through on their obsession, the injured climber is forced/allowed to finally get after all those other plans he or she has been formulating for years.
 Interview with Lord Scrummage at Teva Mountain Games
I met with the boys of Lord Scrummage: Alex, Conor, and Ben, at a table outside Moe’s BBQ in Vail, Colorado during the weekend of the Teva Mountain Games and the U.S. World Cup of Bouldering. They had just arrived a few hours ago and it was their first time in Vail. Vail was one of the many stops on their tour across the country to promote their new album. Other stops on the tour include San Francisco, Dallas, New Orleans, and Baltimore.
 Paige Claassen Interview
Interview by Tucker Tyler - In June 2009 Paige Claassen redpointed the limestone enduro-fest, Zulu (5.14a), at Colorado's Rifle Mountain Park a few days before her 19th birthday. Colorado climber Tucker Tyler caught up with Paige to give us this exclusive interview for UrbanClimberMag.com.
 Lee Means - Pro Blog 8
6/17/09 - After returning from the “Lucky #7” 2009 New River Rendezvous I had to prepare for my trip to Italy and Switzerland. The Rendezvous is a very special event for me. It marks the anniversary of my “sales rep-hood.” It was my very first event as a MAMMUT athlete/tech rep. Now, 5 years later I continue to serve as the Southeast primary independent sales rep for the brand.
 The Truth About Hueco
By Melissa Strong and photos by Andy Mann / andymann.com - The rumors surrounding Hueco this past year have raised many a desert dirtbagger’s eyebrow, sparking an onslaught of questions about the fate of America’s bouldering mecca. Despite the general confusion, Hueco’s still here, open, and functioning — in fact, there’s a renaissance in the works that’s begun to lift those dark clouds of uncertainty hovering over the Tanks.
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