 The Longest Climb
This is an attempt to set a new world record. An attempt to raise £10,000 for three charities: Amnesty International, Heart UK, Mountain Rescue England and Wales. This is two guys, Tom Lancaster and Jonathan Briggs, attempting to climb the height of Mount Everest, 8,848 meters (or 29,029 feet), in one stretch, on an indoor climbing wall. This equates to 738 times up the 12 meter wall.
 CONTENTS #34 > NOVEMBER 2009
FEATURES IN THIS ISSUE: Future Gyms - Today’s next-gen gyms are changing the face of our sport . . . indoors and out; Font vs. Annot - Hueco Tanks guidebook author and pro climber Matt Wilder heads to France to settle the score; Filling My Vortex - A tale of mysticism, close calls, and winterclimbing bliss in Arizona; DEPARTMENTS: 411 - Ear Candy: Lord Scrummage; Daniel Woods in Europe; climbing nutritionology; Drive - Lauren Lee (is back!) and (the other) Alex Johnson; Workshop - Setting outside the box; SLO-Op; San Luis Obispo, California
 COIN #34 - THE STUFF OF MYTH
HERA’S PARTNERS IN ACTION PACKAGE // Hera was more than just an ancient
Greek goddess — she was the ancient
Greek goddess. She was strong,
confident, and didn’t take any
crap, even from her husband, Zeus. Our
friends at HERA (herafoundation.org) named
their non-profit org after this powerful character
because of her strength and her role as
a protector of women.
 ENTOURAGE - #34 > NOVEMBER 2009
ROB PIZEM - "If I see something beautiful, I want to figure it out and climb it, whatever it takes," says Rob "The Piz" Pizem, 33, about aesthetic routes. Pizem, originally from Kirtland, Ohio, began climbing 15 years ago on a toprope outside Cleveland and, as the saying goes, was immediately hooked. MATT WILDER - As an upstanding member of the climbing community, the 30-year-old Matt Wilder - a Weston, Connecticut, native - has authored a bouldering guidebook to Hueco Tanks, Texas, and nabbed FAs in Boulder Canyon, super-highballs in Bishop, and the big first free ascents in Yosemite.
 Fifth Annual Adventure Film Festival
On November 12-14 in Boulder, Colorado, the Fifth Annual Adventure Film Festival will premiere the most exciting and inspiring award-winning independent films from around the world. The festival is dedicated to all aspects of adventure — from serious exploration to environmental heroism to gripping tales from the edge of the believable. Visit: www.adventurefilm.org
 2009 Yangshuo Climbing Festival
Following last year’s inaugural event, the Second Annual Yangshuo Climbing Festival, hosted by The North Face and Black Diamond, will be held from November 13 to 15, 2009. Once again, the Festival will bring together local and international climbers in one of Asia’s top sport climbing locations.
The Longest Climb
This is an attempt to set a new world record. An attempt to raise £10,000 for three charities: Amnesty International, Heart UK, Mountain Rescue England and Wales. This is two guys, Tom Lancaster and Jonathan Briggs, attempting to climb the height of Mount Everest, 8,848 meters (or 29,029 feet), in one stretch, on an indoor climbing wall. This equates to 738 times up the 12 meter wall.
UCMAG's PHOTOPOST
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Mountain Khakis Announces New 'RearGear' Program
11/10/09 - Mountain Khakis, a premier outdoor-lifestyle apparel brand “Built for the Mountain Life”, proudly announces the launch of their RearGear Team Apparel and Uniform Program.
Colorado Town Legalizes Marijuana
11/10/09 - On Nov. 3, 2009, the high-profile Colorado tourist destination of Breckenridge voted by a margin of 73% to 27% (with 96% of precincts reporting) to legalize the adult possession of marijuana.
DEUTER USA APPOINTS CHRISTIAN MASON DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING
11/10/09 - Deuter, makers of innovative, high quality and multi-use packs with over 110 years of internationally proven experience, is pleased to announce the hiring of Christian Mason as Director of Sales and Marketing.
8th Annual Climb4Life Raises Over $80,000
11/05/09 - Over 100 climbers and 66 volunteers gathered for our three-day signature event, which uses climbing as a vehicle to focus attention on ovarian cancer.
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 STARTING HOLD - #34 > NOVEMBER 2009
CINEMA PARADISO - RE-DISCOVERING CLIMBING AND COMMUNITY IN THE DARK // Mid September, I went to the nationwide
premier of the Reel Rock Film Tour at the
Boulder Theater in Boulder, Colorado. It
came as no surprise that the theater was
packed — Boulder is, after all, one of the most
climber-dense regions in the country. It was so jammed,
in fact, I feared for my safety.
 UK's first DigiWall opens at The Warehouse climbing centre
The first DigiWall climbing attraction to be installed in the UK by Innovative Leisure Ltd. has opened at The Warehouse climbing centre in Gloucester city centre. Each section of the DigiWall features 24 grips for hands and feet, each one incorporating a sensor and light which are linked to a computer. A surround sound system is another feature and a variety of games with different levels can be played by users as they climb over the wall. Each game also uses its own sound design.
 Sweet Bloc: Bouldering La Proue at Medonnet, France
Video by Sébastien Montaz-Rosset / jefilm.com - Guillaume and Seb present a boulder line called La Proue (Font 7a+ or V7) in Médonnet near Chamonix, France. The gneiss bouldering of Médonnet, nestled within in a beautiful mountain forest, is perfect for the warm days of summer and is said to have a Fontainebleau-esque feel with many flat landings. The blocs are situated 25-30 minutes driving from Chamonix toward the ski resort of Megève. The area offers three main sectors with several hundred problems from french boulder grade 2-8a.
 Samsara and Pra Caramba Trailers - 2009 Adventure Film Festival
Videos by Renan Ozturk and Cedar Wright courtesy of BlueWaterRopes Blogspot.com to premiere at the Adventure Film Festival in Boulder, Colorado - On November 12-14 in Boulder, Colorado, the Fifth Annual Adventure Film Festival will premiere the most exciting and inspiring award-winning independent films from around the world. The festival is dedicated to all aspects of adventure — from serious exploration to environmental heroism to gripping tales from the edge of the believable. Renan Ozturk's "Samsara" and Cedar Wright's "Pra Caramba" will both premiere at this year's festival.
 FINISH HOLD - #33 - NEVER QUIT
“You could lose your leg, your foot.”
“You’re lucky to be alive.”
“You’re out for the season.”
“You might never climb again.”
NEVER QUIT. For some, it takes only telling them; for others, being close to death — to get back to the basics, appreciate every day, know who’s always been there and want to love them well, to climb for more than grades, to live purely, without fears.
 2009 PSYCHEDELIA at The Spot Gym
Photos by Adam Bove / adambove.carbonmade.com - The craziest, most unique and bizarre climbing event of the year went down on Saturday, October 24th, at The Spot Bouldering Gym in Boulder, Colorado. Event number two of the fifth annual PSYCHEDELIA is more than just a bouldering comp — it's a black-light, dance around, pre-halloween, climb-for-all rave, with a costume contest and creative finals problems on glow-in-the-dark holds, complete with awesome raffles, free food from Wahoo's Fish Tacos as well as free beer from Avery Brewing Company. Don't miss next year! For more info visit: TheSpotGym.com
 WORKSHOP - #33 - TREADWALL TRAINING 101
You’re snowed in, rained out, or your local gym lacks the vertical real estate to get you into route shape. Or maybe you just can’t fi nd a partner willing to belay you on those marathon lap sessions….There are plenty of reasons to turn to a treadwall to train. These endlessly rotating climbing surfaces can give you the type of mileage formerly only available in Yosemite.
 CARRIE COOPER
THE REINVENTION OF SELF // The Louisville, Kentucky, native Carrie Cooper has packed a whole lotta livin’ into her 30 years on Earth. In addition to bouldering for nearly a decade and sending scores of hard problems up to V10 (she’s actually flashed the grade, but never tried anything harder…), she’s been a modern dancer, studied psychology, and traveled to dozens of countries.
 SHADOW AYALA
When I first met the Berkeley, California native Shadow Ayala, it felt like I was encountering a long-lost friend. A nomad, the 37-year-old has been on the road since he was 8. He found climbing six years ago, adding it to his roster of interests/ occupations, like touring the states in a metal band and shooting photographs as though it was a life’s journal.
 PHIL SCHAAL OVERCOME
N.K.O.T.B. sends America’s hardest // “For a hard problem, I couldn’t have made it any easier for myself — crimps, pretty good feet, snatchy . . . definitely my style,” says Phil Schaal, 28, of Glastonbury, Connecticut. He’s speaking, funnily enough, of his August 26 fifth ascent of Rocky Mountain National Park’s Jade (V15; FA Daniel Woods, 2007), possibly the hardest boulder problem in North America.
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